Λουλού-δι
Category: Blog Posts
Here you can see my weekly updates! !
Status Update
My lovely brothers and sisters, I salute you. I will start this short note with a small poem I wrote:
DEBT
A!
I
O
U
I am in Switzerland. I had to pause for a bit wandering with my bicycle because of debt accumulation. I have some money in the bank but they are not enough for the last part of my trip – exploring the East.
I finished my first contact with Africa. It took me two and a half years, 23 countries, and approximately 18.000 cycling kilometers. These I can count. I can’t count, though, the beauty, the friends, the growth. It is obvious that Africa changed my life. Even one day in Africa can change your life. Even one conscious day anywhere can change your life.
I spent years in this journey and in all honesty I can spend hours just looking at this map. This map is charged and I can’t escape its energy. I have so many things to say and I am writing some of them. In the following months I will be posting here. I had been writing some words but always you have to fight this feeling of futility. That the distance between the experience and the words is so big that even if you carefully choose your letters, your words, the sequence, the titles – always the Signifier wil fall short of the Signfied. Πάντα το Σημαίνον θα υπολείπεται του Σημαινόμενου.
I cycled until Dakar, Senegal. Fascinating time. West Africa is such a crazy, beautiful little world... I gave my cheap, half-destroyed bicycle to a guy who fixed my earphones and I flew to Addis Abeba, Ethiopia to get my original bicycle and 75% of my stuff that I had left there for 2 years.
I came to Switzerland to find a job. First I did 3 weeks of volunteering in an awesome place in the countryside by the lake Zurich. Now I am in quarantine and in some days I will go and stay with my brother and his lovely family in Zurich. I also came here to be with them. I am excited to see my niece, Alexandra and Nicolas that were born when I was in Peru and now they are 3 years old +.
The coronavirus situation is a shitty one. I am truly worried about how things will go in Africa… In urban areas you have really densely populated areas.. you have litle rooms being the house of families of 4,5,6 persons or even more. All in a little room. In addition, how can you implement quarantine when a lot of people (maybe the majority) is living per diem. That is, you are being paid at the end of the day. You don´t have a monthly or bimonthly salary… How these people will buy stuff to stay at home and where they will put them? Fridge is a luxury in many places in Africa.
I am… well, terrified to be honest… I feel that even if we do our best, Africa is doomed. I am a very optimist guy in general, but here it seems to me straightforwardly factual. If the virus has travelled so far, how it will not penetrate the slums and all the very poor settlements that are around rapidly growing African cities?? People rush into the cities to find a job and they just try to find a place to sleep. they build their houses with whatever waste material they can find. they have no toilets, no electricity, no running water.. nothing… can you imagine? please, try to imagine… one toilet being shared with 50 others…. sometimes they dont even have a shelter. you walk at night and you see hundreds of people sleeping in the streets.. in an organised way. they are not the homeless we see in the western world. oh one guy here one guy there… they are a lot of people who just cannot afford to rent a small place. at 6 pm the carton boxes are out and put down on the pavement or on the road, the mosquito nets are hanged above them, the litle radio is playing, candles or oil lamps. and that´s their life… Social distancing is a joke there.
On a positive note, Africa has some experience fighting against viruses and other mighty invisible microorganisms. Ebola, cholera, typhoid etc…. but this is worse now… i don’t know.. I am really worried.. Usually in health crises there are the international organisations that help. but these organisations are funded by rich countries… and now rich countries have already fucked up with their own crisis management… how they will give money away.. and there is need… Central African Republic, one of the poorest if not the poorest country, has 3 ventilators for 5 million people, while New York has 6250 ventilators for the same amount of people and still they have 700 people dying daily!
🙏🏾
Myself, I am doing well. I am fine. I feel happy I have managed to finish my African journey safe and sound. Most of my adventures and misadventures are not to be found in this blog yet because some things are really intense and it’s not easy to publish them for a number of reasons.
The only sure thing is I am coming out of the african continent way stronger, more mature, more conscious, more expanded, more connected, more full…
…more Human!
Disappointing Nigeria
I have already cycled in 32 countries. Half of them are in Africa. In terms of obtaining visa for a country I have faced many difficulties; being asked for a bribe, being lied as to what the real price of the visa is, unreasonable week-long delays, asking for extra documents that are completely irrelevant, and many more. However, I have never received such a ridiculous and insulting behaviour that I receive currently in Cameroon, at the Nigerian Embassy in Yaounde and, most importantly, at the Nigerian Consulate in Douala. The story goes like this.
On the 25th of Semptember I am visiting the nigerian embassy in Yaounde in search of information on how to get the Nigerian visa. I let the very polite woman at the reception know that I am a long time bicycle traveller from Greece, and I ask if I can pay online and receive from Douala, as I had already seen on the nigerian immigration webpage. I am told that indeed this is an option and I go for it as paying online is more secure and transparent. I pay online and cycle to Douala to submit the documents and receive the visa. I try to find the consulate, but is very difficult. The official website of the consulate does not mention the actual physical address. The phone number stated is wrong. The e-mail stated (info@nigerianconsdouala.gov.ng) is not working. The address I find on Google maps says “permanently closed”. The embassy e-mail I find on the Embassy webpage is not working (nhc_yde@yahoo.com). After a lot of search I find the consulate. It is 14:40 but they do not let me in, despite the working hours on the website is until 16:00.
The following day I manage to enter the consulate. I am being told by a younger member of the visa department that I need residence permit, and I explain to him that I am a tourist and I am being sent by the Embassy in Yaounde, where I have already informed them I am a cycling tourist. I ask to see the supervisor or the manager of the visa department in order to find a way forward. The manager comes at the reception clearly upset, even before meeting me. I try to explain what is the situation but he is shouting for no apparent reason. He is telling me to apply for a visa on arrival but I let him know I have already paid for the visa. I told him that I already went in the Embassy in Yaounde and they told me I can do it in Douala. This man is leaving in the middle of the conversation while I speak, without saying nothing. I repeatedly ask the receptionist, who is witnessing our dialogue, what is the name of this man and why is he treating me like this. The lady at the reception refuses to tell me the name of this person.
On the following day I go again at the consulate with the necessary documents printed. I see again the younger man that I saw the previous day and he is insisting that it is impossible to get a visa without residence permit. I let him know that “it is ok” and I kindly ask him to tell me his name so when I go back to Yaounde I can tell them that “this man at the consulate, gave me this piece of information”. He refuses to give me his name, despite I insist. He also refuses to give me the name of the manager whose unacceptable behavior I received the day before. I ask again to see the manager. The manager comes at the reception to find me. He is entering the room and starts talking to me in a very aggressive way. Before proceeding in any kind of argumentation I ask him why he is so aggressive with me. I tell him also that I am not eligible for visa on arrival that he had suggested the day before. No actual dialogue took place because this man was not listening at all. He was talking and shouting. He left again without notice and quickly went at the office of the visa department. I followed him and I asked what his name is. He shouted his name at me and when I tried to write it down he went furious to the window to call the guard!!! The guard came in seconds and pushed me out of the Embassy. Physically pushing me out while I didn’t resist at all. In the middle of this scene I could not write down the name of this man, but he was above 50 and he was wearing a hut both days. The people who work at the visa department are witnesses of the surreal and unacceptable treatment I received. I left speechless, physically very upset and extremely disappointed.
I went straight to the Greek consulate to report the incident and call for a diplomatic intervention. Unfortunately my country is being poorly represented in Cameroon, so it is very difficult for someone to intervene in an official way.
I went back to the Embassy in Yaounde and let them know of the insulting behavior I received. They advised me to write a letter to the ambassador explaining the situation. I did so and a week later I was told that the ambassador is giving the green light for the visa to be issued, but this has to take place in Douala because I have paid online. I go again at the consulate in Douala, last Thursday. They tell me the visa guy is not there – “come back on Monday”. I go back yesterday (Monday), and they don’t let me even enter the consulate. I am being told the visa guy is not there. I insist to know when to come back. They tell me, just so they get rid of me, “come back on Friday”.
I call the Embassy at Yaounde for some help and also to let them known that these guys hate me because I talked to the ambassador and they will always tell me the visa person is not there. The guy who I spoke with every time at the Embassy sounds very unwilling to talk more. He says that I don’t have residence permit and this is a problem.. He hangs up the phone on me… But I have already paid!! And the ambassador approved!!
As a result I have lost 110$ – the visa fees, and approximately the double in accommodation fees and trips Yaounde – Douala. I have also lost more than one month. But most importantly I feel humiliated and dissapointed as I never believed the strongest economy of the continent would have such a poor diplomatic representation and such an extremely impolite staff.
And it gets even worse… I can’t cycle to the north because of Boko Haram presence in the north of Cameroon and Chad, and also there is no commercial ship that goes from Douala to Benin or Togo or somewhere to west Africa, bypassing nigeria. My only solution seems to be the flight, which is too pricey to be considered an option …
😕 – kind of desperate…
Weeks 129 – 133 | Ethiopia
Η μετάβαση από το Σουδάν (μία μουσουλμανική χώρα με σαρία) στην Αιθιοπία ήταν ιδιαίτερα έντονη. Γράφω σχετικά, εδώ.
Το συνοριακό πέρασμα στο Koυρμούκ ήταν κλειστό για τους τουρίστες. 2 μέρες, 500 μπιρ, και 600 χιλιόμετρα αργότερα είμαστε για δεύτερη φορά στη Μετέμα. Αυτή τη φορά προς και όχι από το Σουδάν. Θα μπορούσα να είχα ρωτήσει κάπου αν το Κουρμουκ είναι προσπελάσιμο αλλά δεν το έκανα. Είδα δρόμο στο γκουγκλ μαπς και είπα Α κομπλέ, Πάμε από κει.
Αιθίοπες, οι με ηλιοκαμένη όψη. (αἴθω = καίω + ὤψ)
«Αιθιοπικά», το τελευταίο σύγγραμμα της λεγόμενης κλασικής, αρχαίας ελληνικής γραμματείας. Του Ηλιόδωρου, 3ος αι. μ.Χ.
Αιθιοπία… τι χώρα;! Προχτές πέτυχα ένα χάρτη που είχε της ημερομηνίες ανεξαρτησίας των αφρικανικών κρατών.
Έτσι εξηγείται το ποσό περήφανος λαός είναι! Απο τα 54 κράτη της Αφρικής είναι το μόνο που δεν είχε αποικιοκρατία! Το κράτος ξεκινάει από την περίοδο του αυτοκράτορα Θεόδωρου ΙΙ (ή όπως τον λένε εδώ, Tewodros), ο οποίος απ’ ότι μου είπαν ήταν στην εξουσία από το 1848- 1861. Aν τον γκουγκλάρεις όμως θα δεις ότι ήταν στην εξουσία από το 1855 – 1868… αυτό γιατί στην Αιθιοπία είναι 7 χρόνια πίσω.. χαχαχα! Στην Αιθιοπία γιορτάσανε το μιλένιουμ το 2007 και τώρα είναι 2011! To ημερολόγιο τους είναι βασισμένο σε διαφορετική χρονολόγηση του ευαγγελισμού της Θεοτόκου και άρα της γένννησης του Χριστού.. Επίσης έχουν διαφορετική ώρα.. 12 το μεσημέρι για μας είναι 6 για τους Αιθίοπες μιας και η μέρα ξεκινάει από την ανατολή του ήλιου..
Χριστιανισμός και Θεόδωρος Ι
Χριστιανισμός και Θεόδωρος ΙΙ
Επίσης είναι φοβερά περήφανοι για τη θρησκεία τους. Το 45% Χριστιανοί Ορθόδοξοι, αλλά όχι σε κοινωνία με τις άλλες ορθόδοξες εκκλησίες. Μια εθνική θρησκεία πάνω κάτω με στοιχεία της κοπτικης παράδοσης (επιρροή από τα βόρεια) και της πρωτοχριστιανικης εποχής. Οι Αιθίοπες ασπάστηκαν τον Χριστιανισμό παρά πολύ νωρίς, γύρω στο 330 μΧ (!!!) και είναι πιθανώς το πρώτο Χριστιανικό έθνος στον κόσμο. Γι αυτό είναι και τόσο περήφανοι. Τους έλεγα είμαι και γω ορθόδοξος και έλαμπε το πρόσωπο τους..! Επίσης, υπάρχει και ένα 35% που είναι μουσουλμάνοι.. Επίσης πολύ περήφανοι ως οι πρώτοι της Αφρικής!! Επηρεασμένοι από τα ανατολικά, από την αραβική χερσόνησο.. Η Χαράρ, πόλη που θέλαμε να πάμε, αλλά τελικά δεν τα καταφέραμε, είναι η 4η ιερή πόλη του ισλάμ.. (εκεί έζησε τα 10 τελευταία χρόνια της ζωής του ο Ρεμπώ)
Αργότερα ήρθε ο επίσης φοβερά αγαπητός Χάιλε Σελάσιε.. βασιλιάς για 40 χρόνια.. αυτοκόλλητα του θα βρεις σε πολλά τουκ τουκ ή λεωφορεία.. πηγαμε σε ένα μπαρ να χορέψουμε και με το που μπήκε ένα τραγούδι αφιερωμένο σε αυτόν σηκώθηκαν όλοι (νέοι κάτω των 30, έχει σημασία) να χορέψουν.. ο Σελάσιε είναι η απάντηση στην ερώτηση «γιατί υπάρχει πλατεία αβησσυνίας» στην Αθήνα. (Αβησσυνία είναι το προηγούμενο όνομα της Αιθιοπίας.) Ο Σελάσιε λοιπόν, πολύ φιλέλληνας, θέλησε να συνδράμει τους Μικρασιάτες που μετά την Καταστροφή του 1922 μετεγκαταστατούνταν στην Ελλάδα. Ενίσχυσε οικονομικά, και προς τιμήν του η πλατεία αβησσυνιας. Ο Σελάσιε επίσης είναι πολύ αγαπητός διότι είναι αυτός που, μετά από πενταετή κατοχή, απώθησε τους Ιταλούς και έτσι δεν εξελίχθηκε σε αποικιοκρατία η παραμονή τους.
Μετά τον Σελάσιε είχαν Κομμουνισμό για 26 χρόνια [πολλά αφρικανικά κράτη είχαν κομμουνισμό στη μετα-αποικιακή εποχή]. Τα τελευταία 27 χρόνια, «δημοκρατία»…. 27 χρόνια η ίδια κυβέρνηση… Κανείς δεν τους θέλει εκτός από κάποιους παππούδες αλλά και κάποιους νέους που μας έλεγαν ότι «είναι χάλια, αλλά τουλάχιστον τους ξέρουμε. Οι επόμενοι θα μας είναι άγνωστοι και τελείως άπειροι». Όταν φτάσαμε στην πρώτη μεγάλη πόλη μπαίνοντας από το βορρά – λέγεται Γκόνταρ – είχανε 3ήμερη επαναστατική αργία. Κατεβήκαμε στην κεντρική πλατεία να δούμε τι γίνεται. Όλα ήταν κλειστά και είχε διαδήλωση που παρά τους πυροβολισμούς υπήρχαν στοιχεία χαλαρότητας όμοια με αυτά που έβλεπα στην Αθήνα το 2009-10… δηλαδή, γέλια και χαβαλές με τους φίλους και αν πέσει πυροβολισμός (για εκφοβισμό) τρέξιμο και χαμόγελα… Πιο πολύ διασκέδαζαν παρά διαμαρτυρόντουσαν.
Όλη η κυβερνητική ομάδα είναι από μια μόνο περιοχή (Τιγκράη) και μας είπαν ότι «αν πας εκεί, είναι σαν την Αμερική»… (εννοούσαν ότι έχει βίλες κλπ). Υπήρχε αναστάτωση γενική. Ή κυβέρνηση κήρυξε τη χώρα σε κατάσταση έκτακτης ανάγκης. Ή αστυνομία μπορεί να σε πυροβολήσει χωρίς προειδοποίηση, απαγορεύεται να περπατάνε μετά τις 20:00 πάνω από 3 άτομα μαζί, η χώρα όλη εκτός από την πρωτεύουσα, Αντις Αμπέμπα, δεν έχει δεδομένα (3g, 4g) και γουάη φάη δεν έχει στα σπίτια γιατί είναι πανάκριβο. Μόνο στα international hotels που και πάλι οι ντόπιοι δεν έχουν πρόσβαση..
Είπα δεν είχε γουάη φάη και μου ρθε μια αστεία σκηνή και μία άλλη δεύτερη και μία τρίτη, που συνδέονται κατά κάποιο τρόπο. Αυτή με το γουάη φάη θα τη γράψω παρακάτω.
Είμαστε μετά τα σύνορα σε μια πόλη παραπέρα. Το πρώτο βράδυ. Βρίσκουμε ένα φτηνό ξενώνα, τύπου 1-2 ευρώ το δωμάτιο.
Φτάνουμε πεινασμένοι, λέει η ιδιοκτήτρια να μας κάνει μακαρονάδα. Ήρθε μετά από μιαμιση ώρα… Μέχρι να βάλει τα…. κάρβουνα, να πάρουνε φωτιά, να βράσει το νερό…. Μας αφήνει να πάρουμε μόνο ένα δωμάτιο.. (γενικά δεν αφήνανε στην Αιθιοπία 2 άντρες μαζί στο ίδιο δωμάτιο..) Πάω τουαλέτα μετά από μέρες.. η πόρτα είναι ενωμένα 10 κλαδιά και τα μισά, μισά! εκεί που είμαι στη στάση της τούρκικης τουαλέτας (δεν έχει μπιντέδες, εδώ), επί τω έργω, έχω eye contact με μια τύπισα απ’ έξω στα 15 μέτρα που κάθεται σε μία καρέκλα με μια παρέα και μιλάνε. Με κοιτάει χωρίς ντροπή ή κάτι – κοιταζόμαστε στα μάτια λες και είμαι δίπλα της και της μιλάω. επίσης σκάνε και μικρά παιδάκια ενίοτε να δουνε πώς τα κάνει ο λευκός! χαχαχ
ένα άλλο παρόμοιο σκηνικό στην
πόλη Γκόνταρ έλαβε χώρα.
πάμε σε τρομερά φτηνό ξενώνα και πάλι
(κολλήσαμε και κοριούς) η τουαλέτα/μπάνιο είναι χωρίς πόρτα. (πολλούς κοριούς) η μεταλλική πόρτα είναι κάπου παραδίπλα (αριστερά στη φωτό) και αν θέλουν να τη χρησιμοποιήσουν απλά τη μεταφέρουν μπροστά στην τουαλέτα. Φαίνεται όμως δεν την πολυχρησιμοποιούνε.. Η τουαλέτα είναι κοινόχρηστη για 3 σπίτια και για τους φιλοξενούμενους του χόστελ. Κατεβαίνει ένα πρωί ο Αλεχάνδρο και μια γυναίκα έκανε μπάνιο, χωρίς την πόρτα.. τρομάζει που τον βλέπει, κάνει πως καλύπτεται και μετά συνεχίζει το μπάνιο σα να μην τρέχει τιποτα. Χωρίς πόρτα. Σε άλλο χωριό (μετά την πόλη Μπάχαρ νταρ) που είμαι μόνος μου, αφήνω το ποδήλατο για να κάτσω να φάω βραδινό σε ένα “εστιατόριο”. σε 3 λεπτά έχω 15 άτομα γύρω μου να με κοιτάνε να με ρωτάνε να ψιλαφίζουν το ποδήλατο και τα πράγματα. Ένας τυπάκος που με βοηθάει στη μετάφραση και κάθεται μαζί μου “διορίζει” έναν φίλο του φύλακα του ποδηλάτου, που για όση ώρα τρώω είναι όρθιος δίπλα στο ποδηλατο και διώχνει τον κόσμο που πλέον είναι τριγύρω μου και όχι δίπλα από το ποδήλατο. είμαστε στα 3 μέτρα από το ποδήλατο και τον “φύλακά” του ο οποίος παρά τα 15-20 άτομα που είμαστε εκεί ξεκινάει να κατουράει στραμμένος προς τα εμάς – σα να είναι απόλυτα φυσιολογικό, κανείς δεν αντιδράει ή δε λέει κάτι. Λέμε όλα αυτά τα περιστατικά σε 2 γερμανούς που γνωρίσαμε κάποια στιγμή και μας λένε ότι σε μία από τις στάσεις που έκανε το λεωφορείο τους στεκόντουσαν έξω από τη μία και μοναδική τουαλέτα και παρατηρούσαν το εξής. Μπαίνει ένας να κάνει την ανάγκη του που θέλει κάποια ώρα…. μετά από λίγο μπαίνει στην ίδια τουαλέτα άλλος, που, παράλληλα με τον πρώτο, κατουράει, βγαίνει, μπαίνει τρίτος, κατουράει, και μετά βγαίνει ο πρώτος..! πώς το οργάνωσαν αυτό, άγνωστο! Με αυτά θέλω να δώσω έμφαση στην πολύ χαλαρή στάση που έχουν οι άνθρωποι εδώ σε σχέση με το σώμα τους, αλλά και το τι είναι φυσιολογικό, και δε χρειάζεται ντροπές.
Κάτι άλλο παρεμφερές κατά κάποιο τρόπο έγινε στη γκόνταρ. Ψάχνω γουάη φάη. βρίσκω ένα μέρος που είναι πολλοί μαζεμένοι, από κάποιο ξενοδοχείο φτάνει το σήμα. μετά από κανα 10λεπτο ο διπλανός μου (γυρω στα 23) μού ζητάει το κινητό μου. του το δίνω. μου το γυρνάει γιατί έπρεπε να το ξεκλειδώσω. το ξεκλειδώνω για να δω πού το πάει. το τυπάκι πάει στις φωτογραφίες μου και ξεκινάει να σκρολάρει και να βλέπει ό,τι έχω τραβήξει… προχωράει κάτω κάτω, βρισκει μια φώτο που του αρέσει και μου γυρνάει την οθόνη και μου λέει “‘αυτό πού είναι??”
χαχαχαχαχα… δηλαδή καθόλου αίσθηση της προσωπικής ιδιοκτησίας, να το πω, ή του προσωπικού χώρου (personal space).. αυτό δεν το λέω ως αρνητικό απαραίτητα. είναι ένα στοιχείο.. κάποιες φορές που ενοχλούσε ήταν όταν σταματάγαμε με τα ποδήλατα και ερχόντουσαν από παντού άνθρωποι όλων των ηλικιών να περιεργαστούν τα ποδήλατα και εμάς.. να ρωτήσουν, να ζητήσουν λεφτά, να ακουμπήσουν τα πράγματά μας.. σε μερικά χωριά έπρεπε να έρθει η αστυνομία να διαλύσει το συγκεντρωμένο πλήθος (!!!) γιατί έκλεινε τον δρόμο.. σκέψου με 15 άτομα γύρω από το ποδήλατο να ανοίγω το μπροστινό τσαντάκι (για να πάρω το αντιηλιακό ξερω γω) και να σπρώχνονται όλοι για το ποιος θα πάρει θέση για να έχει καλύτερη θέα στο τι έχω μέσα στο τσαντάκι! ή να ξυπνάμε το πρωι και να πρέπει να σηκωθούμε και να βγούμε από τις σκηνές γιατί πλέον έχουν μαζευτεί πάρα πολλοί γύρω γύρω οι οποίοι περιεργάζονται το πρωτοφανές (εμάς και τα πράγματά μας)…..
και μιλάμε οι άνθρωποι είναι ΠΑΝΤΟΥ. 108 εκατομμύρια πληθυσμός (!) ενώ το 2000 ήτανε… 66 εκατομμύρια!! H Ελλάδα το 2000 είχε ακριβώς τον ίδιο πληθυσμό με σήμερα… και ο μέσος όρος ηλικίας του πληθυσμού είναι 44 ενώ στην Αιθιοπία είναι… 19! Το νούμερο που εξηγεί γιατί έβλεπα παντού ανθρώπους είναι ο Αστικός Πληθυσμός. Στην Ελλάδα 80% του πληθυσμού ζει στις πόλεις ενώ στην Αιθιοπία το 20%…. σε οποιοδήποτε σημείο κι αν σταματούσαμε θα ξεπεταγόντουσαν από τη χαράδρα από την πλαγιά από πίσω θα τρέχανε ή από τα δέντρα θα κατεβαίνανε (όντως τώρα) παιδιά κυρίως, αλλά και μεγαλύτεροι, οι οποί βασικά θα ζητάγανε χρήματα ή κάτι από τα πράγματά μας. Ακόμα και τις φορές που δε μας προσέγγισαν για αυτό κατευθείαν, μας το ζήτησαν αργότερα, πριν τον αποχαιρετισμό…. ήταν πολύπλοκο να σταματήσουμε για να φάμε κάτι γιατί τελικά έπρεπε να μοιραστούμε το φαγητό και με όσους ερχόντουσαν και.. «πότε είναι το επόμενο χωριο για να αγοράσουμε κάτι;»
και αυτό είναι το κομβικό σημείο… ότι οι άνθρωποι είχαν πολύ μεγάλη ανάγκη.. ειδικά στο κομμάτι Γκόνταρ – Μπάχαρ νταρ.. ηταν αποκαρδιωτικό να βλέπεις τα παιδάκια με τα στόματα και τα χείλη ξεραμένα να σε παρακαλάνε για νερό.. να προσπαθούν να αρπάξουν το μπουκάλι ή τις σαγιονάρες ή το ψωμί.. και συ τι να κάνεις…. αν τους αφήσεις και επιτρέψεις να το κλέψουν, ενισχύεις μια λανθασμένη συμπεριφορά, να τους το δώσεις από πριν είναι πρακτικά δύσκολο γιατί δεν έχεις τόσα για να δώσεις σε όλους, από τη μία, και από την άλλη, ενισχύεις το στερεότυπο ένας λευκός να δίνει ελεημοσύνη σε έναν μαύρο.. Μία εικόνα που δε συμφωνώ μαζί της γιατί πιστεύω ότι οι Αφρικανοί είναι σε θέση να σταθούν στα πόδια τους και δε μας έχουν ανάγκη. Αυτό δε σημαίνει αποκλειστικά καμία εξωτερική βοήθεια, αλλά βοήθεια ουσιαστική που εγκαθιστά μια σχέση αλληλεγγύης και όχι μια σχέση εξάρτησης. Σκοπός είναι να τους μάθουμε να ψαρεύουν και όχι να τους δώσουμε ψάρια.. εγώ όμως εν προκειμένω… μόνο «ψάρια» είχα στο ποδήλατο. από την άλλη βέβαια είναι τόσο σπαρακτικό να βλέπεις αυτές τις εικόνες των ξυπόλητων παιδιών, τα σκισμένα ρούχα, το δέρμα γεμάτο στίγματα από τα διάφορα τσιμπήματα, τα απελπισμένα χαμόγελα, με το πρόσωπο όλο να λέει “δώσε κάτι ρε, δώσε κάτι και άσε τις δικαιολογίες, κοίτα σε τι φάση είμαστε.. ούτε να γελάσουμε στ αλήθεια δεν μπορούμε.. δώσε κάτι δώσε κάτι δώσε κάτι, ξεκόλλα”
δεν έχω φωτογραφίες που πραγματικά να αποτυπώνουν αυτές τις καταστάσεις γιατί όταν τα αντικρίζαμε… δε σκεφτόμασταν να βγάλουμε φωτογραφία. Η παραπάνω είναι μία που τα παιδιά δεν είχανε τόση ανάγκη και απλά τρέχανε παράλληλα με εμάς. Αλλά τον θυμάμαι τον πρώτο που ζήταγε..
η όλη αυτή συγκυρία μας ταρακούναγε. ο αλεχάνδρο είχε μια στιγμή που του ζητάγανε του ζητάγανε και απάντησε, (μίλαγε με κάποιον νέο) γιατί μου ζητάς εμένα, πού ξέρεις ότι εγώ εχω; δεν είμαι πλούσιος. και ο τύπος του λέει, όχι είσαι και λέει ο αλεχάνδρο πού το ξέρεις, και ο νεαρός δεν είπε τίποτα.. έδειξε με το πρόσωπό του το ποδήλατο φορτωμένο….. μου λέει μετά ο Άλε.. εκεί κατάλαβα ότι αυτό το μέσο μπαίνει ανάμεσα σε εμάς και αυτούς τους ανθρώπους… εγώ δυσκολεύτηκα πολύ στο περιστατικό με την ντομάτα αλλά και με διάφορα άλλα που συνέβαιναν. Ας πούμε αυτή η φωτογραφία παρακάτω δεικνύει μια καθημερινή πραγματικότητα. να χαιρετάμε τον κόσμο σε όλες τις φάσεις και ο κόσμος να κοιτάει τα ποδήλατα και τα πράγματα με ενα πρόσωπο ζήλειας ή στενοχώριας
Κάνω μια παρένθεση εδώ να πω ότι στο Χαρτούμ στο Σουδάν στο χόστελ συναντησαμε 4-5 ποδηλάτες… 2 πήραν λεωφορείο για να διασχίσουν την Αιθιοπία, ένας δεν είχε ιδέα τι παίζει με την Αιθιοπία (θα πήγαινε μετά. όπως κι εμείς) και οι 2 άλλοι που την διασχίσαν με το ποδήλατο (αλλα όχι μαζί) καταλήξανε να κυνηγάνε και να χτυπάνε παιδάκια… Γιατί; διότι…. ανα φάσεις οι ντόπιοι, κυρίως παιδιά, και σπάνια νέοι κάτω των 30, θα πετάγανε πέτρες… Εμεις στην αρχή με τον Άλε μπήκαμε δυναμικά.. ήδη από αιγυπτο σουδαν ξέραμε ότι το να μιλάς λίγο τη γλώσσα βοηθάει πολύ, αλλά μπαίνοντας αιθιοπία και έχοντας γνώση αυτής της κάποιας επιθετικότητας, από την πρώτη μέρα ξέραμε 10 -20 λέξεις.. μάθαμε κατευθείαν τα νούμερα και τους χαιρετισμούς, τα “τι κάνεις; όλα καλά;” έτσι τις πρώτες 2-3 μέρες μπορώ να πω δεν είχαμε θέμα, γιατί πραγματικά επικοινωνούσαμε έστω και στοιχειωδώς με τα χαμόγελα και με τις 2-3 πέντε λέξεις. ήταν αρκετό! είδα παιδάκια να σηκώνουν πέτρα και μετά τον χαιρετισμό να την αφήνουν κάτω και να σουφρώνουνε τα φρύδια τύπου “όντως?” .αλλά μετά χειροτερέψανε τα πράγματα.. σε ένα χωριό μάλιστα έπρεπε να περάσουμε ένα μπλόκο. τα λέω και στο λινκ παραπάνω, μην επαναλαμβάνομαι.. στενοχωρήθηκα πολύ, αλλά προσπαθώ να μην κατηγορώ.. τι να κατηγορήσεις… αφού οι άνθρωποι έχουν ανάγκη.. βέβαια το πρώτο αίσθημα είναι θυμός, αντίδραση… σκέψου το να προχωράς και να σου ρίχνουν πέτρες..
να βλέπουμε όλα αυτά στα βόρεια της χώρας και ξαφνικά να μπαίνεις στην πρωτεύουσα, Αντις Αμπέμπα και να λες ώπα ρε φίλε.. κάτι κτήρια ψηλά. δρόμοι κομπλέ, φώτα διαφημίσεις χαμός… να λες τι γίνεται; 50 χιλιόμετρα απ έξω δεν εχουν ηλεκτρικό κι εδώ είναι σαν να σαι σε άλλο πλανήτη. ασφαλώς δεν είναι έτσι όλη η πρωτεύουσα αλλά το θέμα είναι το της υδροκεφαλικής ανάπτυξης – μιας ασυμμετρίας, μιας ανισοκατανομής, δεν ξέρω πως να το πω… με θυμάμαι να βλέπω ανθρώπους με κουστούμια, ή τύπισες με γυαλιά ηλίου και τσάντα χάη, και να λέω ρε φιλε… ΤΙ ΦΑΣΗ;
εκεί άρχισα να σκέφτομαι σχετικά με το αλκοόλ. σε ένα χωριό βασικά εξω από την Αντις. έπινα μια μπύρα με τη μεσημεριανή μακαρονάδα κι έβλεπα τα μικράκια που με κοιτούσαν με ένα βλέμμα… “αυτός που τα χει όλα” – αραχτός κι εγώ να απολαμβάνω γιατί ο ήλιος με είχε κάψει, οι ανηφόρες με ειχαν εξουθενώσει, 6 μηνες στον αραβικό κόσμο ήπια μπύρα 2-3 φορές….. ένιωθα στον παράδεισο…. εκεί στη φούσκα μου… που έσκασε με αυτα τα βλέμματα. και μιλάω για τη φούσκα μου γιατί όταν παράγγελνα την μπύρα μου δεν ημουν άσπλαχνος και άκαρδος. απλά… θεωρούσα ότι το δικαιούμουν.. στον μικρόκοσμο της εμπειρίας μου, τα χα παίξει! είχα ξεφλουδίσει, ανέβαινα για 6 ώρες ανηφόρες, δεν είχα πολύ νερό, δεν είχαμε φάει πρωινό, μου χε λείψει τόοοοσο η μπύρα.. στον μικρόκοσμό μου είχα το δικαίωμα.. όμως στο ευρύτερο πλαίσιο.. στις προτεραιότητες της συλλογικότητας η μπύρα μου δεν ήταν πρώτη ούτε δεύτερη.
και αυτό το σκέφτομαι έκτοτε ως κάτι σημαντικό.
και θέλω να προσπαθήσω να ζω με τα αναγκαία. αν ο πλανήτης όλος είχε ενιαία συνείδηση, τι θα ήταν αναγκαίο για μένα; το αλκοόλ πάντως όχι. ούτε τα αναψυκτικά. κι αυτή η μέθοδος νομίζω θα μπορούσε να είναι κάποιου είδους απάντηση στο παγκόσμιο αυτό αδιέξοδο. γιατί είναι αδιέξοδο. γιατί αυτό δε λύνεται από μη κυβερνητικούς οργανισμούς, ούτε από εθελοντές, ούτε από… περαστικούς.
γιατί η φτώχεια; γιατί η ανισοκατανομή; διότι το πρόβλημα είναι συστημικό και έχει να κάνει με τον καπιταλισμό. δε θα τοποθετούσα τον εαυτό μου πουθενά στο πολιτικό φάσμα γιατί δεν ξέρω ποια είναι η λύση σε συλλογικό επίπεδο. αυτό που ξέρω είναι ότι αυτό που έχουμε δε λειτουργεί για όλους. και είναι σχεδόν απελπιστικό να βιώνεις μία αδυναμία επέμβασης. γιατί αυτή τη στιγμή διαβάζω για τα νούμερα της φτώχειας, της παιδικής θνησιμότητας, της πορνείας, της αρρώστιας, της μόλυνσης, της απουσίας εκπαίδευσης, της διαφθοράς αλλά τα ζω κιόλας, τα βλέπω γύρω μου και κάποια τα βιώνω. κι είναι σχεδον καταθλιπτικό να νοιώθεις την αδυναμία επέμβασης.
γιατί είναι τραγική η συνειδητοποίηση ότι μπροστά στη μεγάλη… εικόνα του προβλήματος εγώ δεν είμαι ούτε ένα πίξελ. ενάς κόκκος άμμου ανάμεσα σε 7μιση δισεκατομμύρια είναι σχεδόν τίποτα. και όπως λέει κι ο Αλεχάνδρο la evolución no te necessita – «η εξέλιξη δε σε έχει ανάγκη». δηλαδή η ροή της ιστορίας είναι ασταμάτητη και η τραγικά μεγάλη πιθανότητα είναι πώς η παρουσία σου στον πλανήτη είτε λιγο είτε πολύ δε θα αλλάξει τίποτα. αυτή η συνειδητοποίηση έρχεται ως σφαλιάρα όταν είσαι μέσα στο πρόβλημα.
η απάντηση δίνεται μόνο σε προσωπικό επίπεδο, και σε προσωπικό επίπεδο το πρώτο βήμα είναι μια ζωή με τα αναγκαία. μια ζωή που θα μπορείς να κοιτάς χωρίς ντροπή τον πιο φτωχό. άσχετα με το πού είσαι και το πού είναι.
Φτάνουμε Αντις Αμπέμπα ετεροχρονισμένα. Ο Άλε πήρε λεωφορείο από Μπάχαρ νταρ. Πραγματικά είχε κάνει υπερπροσπάθεια. Η Αιθιοπία είναι γε-μά-τη με βουνά… οι ανηφόρες εκτός από ατελείωτες είναι και αλεπάλληλες. ο ήλιος καίει “άστα λα μέδουλα” (που λένε κι οι ισπανόφωνοι), μέχρι το μεδούλι! συν τοις άλλοις είχε πάθει και κάποιου είδους πνευμονία στο Σουδάν και ταλαιπωρούταν πάρα πολύ. πήρε ένα βανάκι – ένα μίνιμπας δηλαδή, μικρό, που το γεμίσαν με 21 άτομα…!! ένα μίνι βαν των 3 σειρών, 9 θέσεις θεωρητικά… εγώ έφτασα με το ποδήλατο 3-4 μέρες πιο μετά περνώντας μια ασύλλυπτη πραγματικά χαράδρα, που κατέβαινε για 20 χιλιόμετρα και ανέβαινε για 20 χιλιόμετρα.
βρήκα Αλεχάνδρο. τα χόστελ ακριβά.. 6-7 ευρώ το άτομο και θα μέναμε τουλάχιστον 2 εβδομάδες οπότε το ποσό ήταν απαγορευτικό. Από κάουτσσέρφινγκ δε μας απαντούσαν και ήταν δύσκολο να ζητήσουμε να μείνουμε σε κάποιον τόσο καιρό, ή να αλλάζουμε κάθε 3-4 μέρες… Βρήκαμε ένα τσίρκο. σκάσαμε με τα ποδήλατα και τους λέμε ότι ο Άλε παίζει κιθάρα και γω είμαι ηθποιός, αν μπορούμε να μείνουμε μαζί σας κάποιες μέρες και να βοηθήσουμε όπου μπορούμε.. Είπανε, “ναι, βεβαίως”
Μα κυρίως ο Άλε βοηθούσε… εγώ έφευγα πρωί πρωί να βρω καλό ίντερνετ, να γράψω, να ανεβάσω και να δημοσιεύσω τίποτα. δεν του άρεσε πολύ και με το δίκιο του. Τεσπα, το τσίρκο είχε πλάκα, λέγεται Φεκάτ.. που στα αμαρένια (η γλώσσα της Αιθιοπίας) σημαίνει “ανθίζον” και το ωραίο είναι ότι Αντίς αμπέμπα” σημαίνει “νέο λουλούδι”.
Οι μέρες στην Αντίς Αμπέμπα ήτανε μέρες προβληματισμού.. με αυτά που βλέπαμε καθοδόν δεν μπορούσα να σταματήσω να σκεφτομαι ΤΙ ΣΚΑΤΑ ΡΕ ΦΙΛΕ, τι γίνεται στον πλανήτη; θα μου πεις, δεν τα ‘ξερες; τα ‘ξερα μπρο, αλλά άλλο να τα γνωρίζει το μυαλό και άλλο να τα γνωρίζει η καρδιά. άρχισα να διαβάζω για την παγκόσμια ανάπτυξη, για την ανθρωπιστική βοήθεια που έρχεται στην Αφρική, γιατί δε λειτουργεί, τις διάφορες απόψεις.. Κατέβασα βιβλία και τα μελετάω μέχρι σήμερα. Σε μία από τις διαδυκτιακές αυτές περιπλανήσεις έπεσα πάνω στην Κεντρική Αφρικανική Δημοκρατία, την πιο φτωχή χώρα του κόσμου. Βασικά θυμάμαι ακριβώς πώς έπεσα εκεί..
Ήθελα να κάνω μια σύγκριση. Το Σουδάν, φουλ μουσουλμανικό, ήταν υπερβολικά φιλόξενο και ειρηνικό (τουλάχιστον προς εμάς), η Αιθιοπία, τουλάχιστον οι περιοχές που περάσαμε, φουλ Χριστιανικές. Ήθελα να δω αυτό που λέμε στις συγκρίσεις ceteris paribus (έτερα ίσα). Αν δηλαδή οι άλλοι παράγοντες που μπορούν να επηρρεάσουν το πώς οι ντόπιοι μας αντιμετωπίζουν είναι ίδιοι.. και στην προκειμένη περίπτωση, αν το Σουδάν και η Αιθιοπία ήταν στο ίδιο οικονομικό επίπεδο θα σήμαινε ότι μπορώ να θεωρήσω τη θρησκεία αρκετά σημαντική και να την “απομονώσω” σχετικά, στην ανάλυσή μου.. Έλα όμως που η Αιθιοπία είναι πολύ πιο φτωχή (34η στην Αφρική και 19ο το Σουδάν) και έτσι αιτιολογείται σε κάποιο βαθμό η επιθετικότητα. Κάτι άλλο που δυσκολεύει όμως τη σύγκριση είναι ότι η Αιθιοπία είναι η μόνη χώρα που δεν είχε αποίκους πάνω από το κεφάλι της οπότε και θα δικαιολογούταν ακόμα πιο πολύ το να έχουν μια εχθρική συμπεριφορά προς τους λευκούς.
Στο ζουμί… Κεντρική Αφρικανική Δημοκρατία;;; ούτε που ήξερα την ύπαρξη αυτής της χώρας.. βλέπω στον χάρτη ότι είναι αρκετά κοντά, παραδίπλα βασικά, από την Αιθιοπία και λέω στον Αλεχάνδρο που πια έχουμε πάρει την απόφαση ότι θα αφήσουμε τα ποδήλατα γιατί δε βγάζει λογική, και ο Αλε είναι μέσα να πάμε να δούμε πώς είναι η Κεντρική Αφρικανική Δημοκρατία.
Το θέμα είναι πού θα αφήσω εγώ το ποδήλατο. Ο Α το πούλησε το δικό του, αλλά εγώ σκοπεύω να γυρίσω να το πάρω. Είμαι τυχερός και ο γενικός οργανωτής και υπεύθυνος του τσίρκου είναι ο Ντερέτζε με τη γυναίκα του Tζώρτζια, οι οποίοι δέχονται να κρατήσουν τα πράγματά μου σπίτι τους και όταν γυρίσω να τα πάρω.
Να πω εδώ ότι το τσίρκο ήταν μια ιδιαίτερη κατάσταση γιατί οι εργαζόμενοι και διαμένοντες εκεί ήταν νέοι που ουσιαστικά το τσίρκο τους έβγαλε από μια πολύ δύσκολη κατάσταση. Κάποιοι ήταν πριν άστεγοι, κάποιοι δεν είχαν οικογένεια κλπ.. ήταν κάτι σα μια σανίδα σωτηρίας (και ισορροπίας). Ο Ντερέτζε (27 χρονών!) μου είπε το εξής «ήθελα να δώσω στους νέους μια δημιουργική διέξοδο… οι νέοι στην Αιθιοπία ή θα πέφτουν με τα μούτρα στην εκκλησία, ή στο τσαντ!»
(περί τσαντ, δε μίλαγε για τη χώρα. μίλαγε για το κλασσικό, ήπιο, λαϊκό, νόμιμο ναρκωτικό των φύλλων κοκκαίνης. τα βάζεις στο στόμα σου, τα αναμασασάς και μετά τα καταπίνεις. είναι χλωρά, σε αντίθεση με της λατινικής αμερικής που είναι ξερά και μετά τα φτύνεις. πλάκα έχει, σου δίνει όντως ενέργεια αλλά αν κάνεις κάθε μέρα και για ώρες… τη χάνεις τη μπάλα και είσα σα ζόμπι)
τι άλλο; τι να πρωτοπείς για την Αιθιοπία και για το πώς μας επηρέασε.. κάτι απίστευτο στην Αιθιοπία είναι η μουσική και κυρίως ο ΧΟΡΟΣ.. δεν έχω βιντεάκι γιατί… πάθαινα αυτήν την παράλυση βλέποντας παραδοσιακούς και μη χορούς… κυριολεκτικά, σταμάταγα να χορεύω, έκανα 2-3 βήματα εκτός κι έμενα με το στόμα ανοιχτό γιατί αυτό δεν το χα ξαναδεί ποτέ. και όταν πια το χα συνηθίσει, ήθελα να το απολαύσω γιατί ήταν.. μαγικό. έχουν έναν τρόπο να κουνάνε τους ώμους στην Αιθιοπία που είναι σα να παθαίνουν εξάρθρωση.. όντως τώρα! και μετά όλο το σώμα να λικνίζεται σαν κύμα.. και όλοι μιλάμε, όχι επαγγελματίες χορευτές.. δε χόρταινες να το βλέπεις.. και πώς χαμογελάγανε όταν χορεύανε ένας άντρας και μία γυναίκα με τα χέρια στη μέση και με αυτές τις κινήσεις τις απίστευτες. κάτι σχετικά αντιπροσωπευτικό είναι αυτό το βιντεάκι. Από πλευράς μουσικής, είναι απόλυτα αντιπροσωπευτικό – η μουσική που θα ακούσεις στον δρόμο. επίσης αξίζει λίγος Tilahun Gessesse… που είναι ανάμεσα στο άνω παραδοσιακό και κάτι πιο μοντέρνο και τέλος, ο φοβερός dr Mulatu Astatke με την αιθιοπική βερσιόν της τζαζ που είναι… σκέτη και ατελείωτη απόλαυση..!
ένα άλλο ωραίο σκηνικό που μου ‘ρθε τώρα ήταν όταν σε μια βόλτα μου σε κάποια φάση που ο άλε ήταν άρρωστος, σε μια κωμόπολη είμασταν, στα βόρεια, με πλησίασαν τα παιδιά και μου ζητάγανε λεφτά επίμονα, ή φαγητό. τώρα, ενώ λεφτά θα δώσω πάρα πολύ σπάνια, φαγητό δυσκολεύομαι να αρνηθώ. το θέμα είναι ότι όταν είναι 20 παιδιά πρέπει να πάρεις και στα 20. δεν πήρα αλλά αντ’ αυτού κάποιο είπε μπολ.. και λέω ναι, αν είναι για μπάλα, μέσα. πήγαμε όλοι μαζί (είχε πλάκα να περπατάει ενας λευκός με 20 παιδιά που του κρατούν τα χέρια και μιλάνε και γελάνε και γινόταν γενικα ψιλοπανικός) στην αγορά και πήρα μια μπάλα ποδοσφαίρου που έκανε… 10 ευρώ! πανάκριβη για τα τοπικά δεδομένα… η φάση ήταν ότι μετά πήγαμε έξω από το σχολείο, στον δρόμο, χωριστήκαμε σε ομάδες και γω έκανα τον διαιτητή.. σφύραγα κιόλας, είχε πολύ πλάκα.
Ο Αλεχάνδρο με τον νεαρό δόκιμο.. αυτοί που φοράνε λευκό μανδύα πάνε για ιερείς. μπορεί να είναι ακόμα και πολύ μικροί στην ηλικία. Το ενδιαφέρον είναι ότι αν ζητήσουνε φαγητό ή λεφτά ή κάτι από κάποιον συνήθως τους δίνει.
μιλάμε για ΤΙΣ ΑΝΗΦΟΡΕΣ. εδώ ο ιδρώτας μου έχει στεγνώσει και βλέπουμε μόνο το ΑΛΑΤΙ που έχει μείνει!!
ετοιμάζει φουλ αιθιοπικό μμμμμμμμ
σε κάτι καταρράκτες που πήγαμε, που μπορείς να τους δεις ε κίνηση στο μουσικό βιντεάκι που παραθέτω παρακάτω
φώτο από Αλεχάνδρο!
….. (φώτο Αλεχάνδρο)
….. (φώτο Αλεχάνδρο)
🙂
😀
κουρασμένοι
στάη για φαϊ
μεσημεριανό
🙂
🙂
ντοιονγκ
!
κλασσικό σπίτι εκτός πόλης
που είναι και η πλειονότητα
Στην Αιθιοπία μικρό μέρος του πληθυσμού ζει στις πόλεις
έφτασα Άντις
γιουχουυυ!! ανακούφιση!
καλημέρες
καληνύχτες
καλησπέρες
μιλάμε κοίτα πόσα πράγματα κουβαλάω
..
…
αυτά τα μαλλιά… πραγματικά έργο τέχνης.. κι όταν λέω.. αυτά… δεν εννοώ αυτα τα συγκεκριμένα.. η μισή Αφρική έχει τα μαλλιά της έτσι
αφού αφήσαμε τα ποδήλατα στην Αντις ξεκίνησε το ταξίδι με λεωφορείο
παραδοσιακή ζωγρεαφική στην Αιθιοπία. Αυτά είναι κεφάλια Αγγέλων
Ιντζάρα!! Γιάμι! και είναι και βίγκαν
σαμόσα με φακές
υπερσαλάτα να γουστάρουμε
σουπερυπερσαλάτα να γουστάρουμε. φρούτα λαχανικά δε διακρίνανε.. κρεμύδια με ντομάτες κλπ κανένα πρόβλημα
καφεδάκι αιθιοπικό μούρλια. δυστυχώς δεν έχω το τυπικό καφεδάκι στον δρόμο που στο φτιάχνουν οι κυριες με πολύ αγάπη και είναι τέλειο (και πάμφθηνο!)
με παρέα. δεν έφευγε και ήθελε το φαγητό μου.. φύγε ρε!
κοριοί. ,μας παρακολουθούνε
κρύβε λόγια (το τσίρκο)
κρύβε λόγια ρε (τα πράγματά μου αφού αφήσαμε τα ποδήλατα… μεγάλη αλλαγή!)
Νομίζω αν ο Αλεχάνδρο ήθελε να προσθέσει κάτι, θα ήταν τα βλέμματα σε αυτές τις φωτογραφίες που είναι δικές του.
Φύγαμε από Αντίς Αμπέμπα με λεωφορείο και με πολύ λιγότερα πράγματα. Να ανέβουμε Σουδάν, να το διασχίσουμε όλο, από ανατολή προς δύση και να μπούμε… Κεντρική Αφρικανική Δημοκρατία….
Weeks 120 – 128 | Sudan
Πού πάμε μετά; – νότια.
τι έχει κάτω από την Αίγυπτο;
ωραία φάση λέμε το Σουδάν
τι ξέρω για το Σουδάν; σχεδόν τίποτα. ένα πράγμα βασικά. ότι στο Χαρτούμ, που είναι η πρωτεύουσα, ξεκινάει ο ποταμός Νείλος. Στο μυαλό μου έχω το Σουδάν ως «μια πιο βαρετή Αίγυπτος». Είναι από αυτές τις ιδέες/πεποιθήσεις που έχεις και δεν ξέρεις καν από που κι ως που.
ΣΟΥΔΑΝ
Ξεκινάμε με έρημο. Ήδη το μεγαλύτερο κομμάτι της Αιγύπτου ήταν ερημικό, αλλά τώρα έχουμε ενίοτε και κάτι ανεμοθύελες που στέλνουνε την άμμο πάνω μας σα βελόνες… κοιτάω τον χάρτη συχνά πυκνά να δω αν αλλάζει καθόλου η κατεύθυνση του δρόμου, το οποίο μπορεί να σημαίνει μια γενικότερη γεωμορφολογική αλλαγή, το οποίο μπορεί να σημαίνει λιγότερο ανεαμμοθύελα -χαχα.. μιλάμε η άμμος μπαίνει παντού..! περνάει τα φερμουάρ και τη βρίσκεις μες στις τσάντες, μπαίνει στα αυτιά, στη μύτη, στα μαλλιά για μέρες.
Τσεκάρω πάλι τον χάρτη αλλά τώρα για να βεβαιωθώ ότι αυτή είναι η έρημος Σαχάρα. είναι, όντως, το ανατολικό της τμήμα. Το λέω με τρόπο περιπαιχτικό στον Αλεχάνδρο ο οποίος ακόμα εξοικειώνεται με το ποδήλατο και με την όλη φάση και δεν την πολυπαλεύει – “άντε, θα χεις να λες στα εγγόνια σου ότι πέραασες την έρημο σαχάρα με το ποδήλατο” – με αγνοεί. Μία κλασσική έκφραση του Αλεχάνδρο είναι “ελ φουτούρο νο εξίστε” – το μέλλον δεν υπάρχει, δηλαδή. Συγκεντρώσου στο παρόν, δηλαδή. Σταμάτα να σκέφτεσαι το μετά, δηλαδή.
Καθήλωση
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Η μαύρη τρύπα με ρουφάει της στιγμής
του χρόνου η παρένθεση τ’ άπειρο μου χρωστά
– ολόκληρο της έδωσα τον ένα –
άγαλμα προαιώνιο, βουβή η συνείδηση μπροστά
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στη φωτιά
στο ηλιοβασίλεμα
στο φεγγάρι που ανατέλλει
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Μαγεία νοχελική κοκκινωπή σαγηνευτικά σαλεύει ή δύει ή αναδύεται
και δε μιλάς
γιατί κάπου εισαι χαμένος
στον χρόνο της ανθρωπότητας
στην ιστορία της φύσεως
σε σύνδεση με ενα υπερπέραν… εγγύς
βουβός, σκέψεων κενός, ενεός
η αλλόκοτη ομορφιά που σε καθηλώνει,
σε διαπερνά
και μένεις εκεί
να κοιτάς, χωμένος για τα καλά,
Το Σουδάν γεωγραφικά, χρονικά και ποδηλατικά χωρίστηκε σε δύο τμήματα. Πριν από το Χαρτούμ και μετά το Χαρτούμ. Το μετά ήταν το δύσκολο κομμάτι γιατί εκτός από της ανεαμμοθύελες είχαμε και μία ζέστη αφόρητη. αφόρητη όμως. 43 βαθμοί κελσίου έδινε το ίντερνετ αλλά αυτό που ένοιωθες μέσα στην ερημιά, με έναν ήλιο φλογοβόλο, ασκεπής για χιλιόοοοομετρα μιας και… είναι έρημος.. δεν έχει δέντρα, δεν έχει τίποτα. άνεμος καυτός που αντί να ψύχει θερμαίνει, συν το να ποδηλατείς… αυτό που ένοιωθες ήταν 53 βαθμοι. 11 το πολύ 12 έπρεπε να χουμε βρει μια σκιά για να αράξουμε μέχρι τις 16:30…. βενζινάδικο, ή χωριουδάκι συνήθως… αλλά κι αυτές οι 5 ώρες ήταν μαρτύριο.. μιλάμε για καμίνι η ευρύτερη περιοχή. κοιμήθηκα ένα από αυτά τα μεσημέρια και ο αλεχάνδρο μου είπε όταν ξύπνησα κάθιδρος ότι ενώ κοιμόμουν ανέπνεα σα λαχανιασμένος…! ζέστη! ακούμπαγες ένα μέταλο που ήταν σε σκιά (το κρεβάτι) στις 1300 και καιγόταν το χέρι σου. Δεν ξέρω πως τα βγάζουν πέρα οι ντόπιοι..
βασικά ξέρω.. είναι μαύροι αρχικά. Παρόλο που το μαύρο ελκύει τις ακτίνες του ήλιου οι αφρικανοί είναι κατασκευασμένοι βιολογικά να υπομένουνε τη ζέστη.. μετά όλοι φοράνε άσπρα, τα αμάξια είναι όλα άσπρα. όλοι είναι καλυμμένοι όσο δεν πάει – γυναίκες άντρες. πίνουν νερό όλη την ώρα. (παντού έχει μπιτόνια, κιούπια κλπ.) Μπαίνοντας στο Αλ Καντάριφ, κι ενώ 1 ώρα πριν ο Αλεχάνδρο παραλίγο να λιποθυμήσει από την ηλίαση (που μόνο με ίαση δε μοιάζει), μιλήσαμε σε ενα φανάρι με έναν παππού που μας χαιρέτησε..
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-Σαχάνα…. σαχάνα κετίρ!! του λέμε
(ήλιος, πολύ ήλιος)
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και απαντάει στα αγγλικά This is Africa, stupid!! που για το stupid δεν είμαι 100% σίγουρος (γιατί τώρα το γράφω και μου φαίνεται υπερβολικό) αλλά το είπε με μία επιθετικότητα που με τον Αλεχάνδρο το εκλάβαμε ως Έσο ες Άφρικα, τόντο (= ηλίθιε) και έτσι το επαναλαμβάναμε αργότερα όποτε καιγόμασταν από τον ήλιο.. ΕΣΟ-ΕΣ (s.o.s) ΑΦΡΙΚΑ ΤΟΝΤΟ!
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Πριν καμια ώρα ο Αλεχάνδρο μου λέει παρά τω δρόμω “δεν μπορώ άλλο, θέλω να κοιμηθώ, θα λιποθυμήσω, δεν ξέρω” του λέω το ξέρω αυτό το αίσθημα μαν, το χω πάθει κι εγώ. Σβήνει ο οργανισμός και το αίσθημα της νύστας είναι η προφύλαξη για να μη σου έρθει η λιποθυμία απότομα. Του δωσα το ποδήλατό μου που έχει την ηλεκτρική υποβοήθηση (που δεν τη χρησιμοποιούσα καθόλου όσο ήμουν με τον Αλεχάνδρο) να πάει όσο μπορεί παρακάτω μέχρι να βρει κάποια σκιά…
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Κατα τ’ άλλα, η έρημος είναι φοβερή…. Το βράδυ είναι υπέροχο με τα αστέρια ή με το φεγγάρι πεντακάθαρα. Στο Σουδάν είδα την πιο ασύλυπτη ανατολή Σελήνης που έχω δει ποτέ. ΓΙΓΑΝΤΙΑ και ΚΟΚΚΙΝΗ. 2 πανσέλληνους κάτσαμε στο Σουδάν. Η πρώτη ήταν η πιο μεγάλη πανσέλληνος των τελευταίων 152 ετών (υπερσελήνη, “μπλε φεγγάρι” και σεληνιακή έκλειψη – απολαυστικό, ποδηλατήσαμε όλο το βράδυ) και η δεύτερη, επίσης μεγάαααλη, ήταν κατακόκκινη ενώ έβγαινε.. νομίζω γιατί η έρημος μας έδινε πιάτο τον ορίζοντα και είδαμε το φεγγάρι πραγματικά να γεννιέται από τη Γη.. (εκεί, στον ορίζοντα, λόγω καμπυλότητας και πυκνότητας του αέρα είναι που αλλάζει και το χρώμα).
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Η άμμος επίσης δίνει μια αίσθηση ατελείωτης τελειότητας.. Η μορφολογική μονοτονία προσδίδει το ατελείωτο και η τελειότητα νομίζω έγκειται στην “ευελιξία” που έχει η άμμος να παίρνει τη μορφή που της υποδεικνύει το περι-βάλλον. Έτσι η εικόνα που λαμβάνεις είναι η τελευταία λέξη του διαλόγου της άμμου με τον άνεμο, κυρίως. Μια επικαιροποιημένη ομορφιά.
Πεθαμενες καμήλες…
Επίσης η ερημιά σου βγάζει (και με αναγραμματισμό) μια ηρεμία, που νομίζω διαπερνάει και τη Σουδανική κουλτούρα. Υπάρχει μια μειλιχιότητα. Η παραδοσιακή τους μουσική, που είναι και σύγχρονη, (δεν είναι σαν την Ελλάδα, που το παραδοσιακό είναι το παλιό – στο Σουδάν αυτό που ακούς στο ραδιόφωνο είναι αυτό που παιζόταν και στις σουδανικές συνάξεις πρίν 800 χρόνια ξερω γω), ναι, η παραδοσιακή τους μουσική έχει μια ροή ´χαλαρή σε γενικές γραμμές.. κάποιος θα την έβρισκε μονότονη ή βαρετή, αλλά οι Σουδανοί γουστάρουνε.. είναι η κουλτούρα.. εδώ άλλωστε σε γενικές γραμμές δε χορεύουνε… δεν παίζουν μπαρ, κέντρα διασκέδασης ή κάτι το πιο μη παραδοσιακό.. ελάχιστα. Ηρεμία…. μετά τις 20:00 βγαίνεις έξω και δεν υπάρχει σχεδόν τίποτα να κάνεις… αν έχεις φάει, αυτό ήταν βασικά, δεν έχεις τίποτα να κάνεις. Επίσης δύσκολα θα δεις 2 σουδανούς να τσακώνονται στον δρόμο, εγώ δεν είδα κανέναν, σε αντίθεση με την Αίγυπτο που σε κάθε περίπατο θα συναντήσεις κάποια ένταση.
Στην Αίγυπτο τελειώνει η Μέση Ανατολή, παρόλο που δεν τελειώνει το ισλαμικό στοιχείο. Το αντίθετο, βασικά, εντείνεται. Το Σουδάν είναι χώρα που επικρατεί Θεοκρατία, δηλαδή οι νόμοι της θρησκείας είναι οι νόμοι του κράτους. Έχουνε Σαρία. Είναι κατά κάποιο τρόπο, με πιο απλά λόγια, πολύ πιστοί μουσουλμάνοι. Στο Σουδάν είδαμε πρώτη φορά αυτοκίνητα σταματημένα στο πλάι στην Εθνική Οδό για να κάνουν προσευχή οι επιβάτες. Ή, δε συναντήσαμε απολύτως κανέναν που να μας πει ότι δεν υπάρχει Θεός – κάτι που το συνάντησα στην Αίγυπτο. Παρόλο που θα υπήρχαν νέοι που δεν πηγαίναν στο Τζαμί, δεν προσευχόντουσαν ή δε διαβάζανε το κοράνι, εννοείται ότι πιστεύανε ότι ο Αλλάχ υπάρχει και γενικά αυτή (του Ισλάμ) είναι η οδός, απλά αυτοί (οι νέοι) δεν ήτανε σε φάση, αυτη τη στιγμή της ζωής τους.
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Κατά τ’ άλλα, τίποτα τρομερό.. Ακούει κανείς σαρία και με όλη αυτή την αντι-ισλαμική κατάσταση στα μίντια νομίζει πως θα βλέπει να πετάνε ομοφυλλόφιλους από τις ταράτσες ή κομμένα χέρια κλεφτών στον δρόμο. όχι. Μια ηρεμία γενική, αλκοόλ πουθενά, πάρτυ ελαχιστότατα, και γενικά μια φυσιολογική κατάσταση. Γυναίκες με μαντήλα, αλλά όχι ακρότητες τύπου δε φαίνονται ούτε τα μάτια – αυτό σπάνια. Και εκκλησία ορθόδοξη έχει το Χαρτούμ και εκκλησία Αιθιοπική είχε δίπλα στο χόστελ. κομπλέ…
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Κάτι ιδιαίτερο που μου ήρθε και στην Αίγυπτο κάποιες φορες ήταν αυτό του “που είναι οι γυναίκες ρε παιδιά;;; να σαι στον δρόμο, σε καφέ που είναι ουσιαστικά καρέκλες κάτω από ένα δέντρο και να παρατηρείς, και να μην υπάρχει γυναίκα στον δρόμο για ώρα πολύ… μόνο άντρες
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Γενικά στο Σουδάν ένιωσα φοβερή ασφάλεια … μας είπαν ότι τα δικαστήρια στο χαρτούμ υπολειτουργούνε γιατί δεν έχει… δουλειά.. δεν έχει έγκλημα καθόλου.. και μου φάνηκε απόλυτα λογικό. Οι άνθρωποι ήταν όσο πιο φιλόξενοι γίνεται!!!!
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όπως μας είπε και ο Τζαμάλ που ήξερε καλά αγγλικά και είχαμε μια μεγάλη συζήτηση μαζί του, στο Αλ Καντάριφ, το Σουδάν είναι η μοναδική χώρα στον πλανήτη που μπορείς να ζήσεις δωρεάν.. όπου πας και τους πεις δεν έχω: θα σου δώσουν θα σε κοιμήσουν θα σε ταίσουν, θα σε φροντίσουν, και θα σε στείλουν στην ευχή του Αλλάχ εννοείται, απαρέγκλιτα αυτό, αλλά ναι, φοβερά φιλόξενοι.
Η πρώτη λέξη που έμαθα στο Σουδάν – αραβικά με τοπικό σπιν – ήταν ΦΆΝΤΑΛΟ! φάνταλοο φάνταλο λέγανε όλοι. κάτι σαν είσαι ευπρόσδεκτος. μας το λέγαν ενώ περπατούσαμε στις πόλεις, ενώ είμασταν στο ποδήλατο, αλλά ΚΥΡΙΩΣ στα “εστιατόρια”.. εκεί που τρώγανε όλοι, μας λέγανε φάνταλο φάνταλο, έλατε να φάμε παρέα…. εκεί τρώνε με έναν δίσκο ή ένα μπολ τεράστιο όλοι, στη μέση. δεν έχει ο καθένας το πιάτο του. δεξί χέρι μέσα και στόμα. τι τρώνε; ένα φαγητό παίζει στο Σουδάν, όσο και να φαίνεται περίεργο. ΦΟΥΛ. φασόλια δηλαδή στο φουλ. δεν τρώνε τίποτα άλλο εκτός κι αν είναι άρρωστοι χαχαχα. χωρίς πλάκα πάντως αυτό είναι το φαγητό- κάθε μέρα πρωί μεσημερι βράδυ. φουλ σκέτο, φουλ χτυπημένο, φουλ με ΕΝΑΝ ΤΟΝΟ λάδι φυστικιού (τέλειο), φουλ με τυρί, φουλ με κρέας, φουλ με σαλάτα (ντοματα ψιλοκομένη και κρεμμύδι). 2 μήνες στο Σουδάν – 2 μήνες φουλ.
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και πολλλλλύ φτηνή χώρα. το μπουκάλι το 1,5 λίτρο το νερό έκανε 5 λίρες όταν μπήκαμε στη χώρα, όταν βγήκαμε το χανε πάει 7. αλλά 5 λίρες σουδανικές είναι 23 λεπτά του ευρώ, στο επίσημο σύστημα.. έλα που το Σουδάν είναι περιπτωση, και οι ΗΠΑ έχουν επιβάλλει εμπάργκο στη χώρα με αποτέλεσμα να υπάρχει τεράστια μαύρη αγορά, απ’ όπου αλλάζαμε τα λεφτά μας (είχε ο Αλεχάνδρο ευρώ) με ισοτιμία 1 ευρώ 40-43 λίρες Σουδάν…. κάντε τα νούμερα για το κόστος του νερού… (κι επίσης για πόσα χαρτονομίσματα σου δίνει ένα 100ευρω – λαμβάνοντας υπόψιν ότι το 50λιρο είναι το πιο χάη χαρτονόμισμα). Το θέμα ήταν ότι λόγω εμπάργκο δεν μπορείς και να τραβήξεις χρήματα απο ΑΤΜ. δε λειτουργούν οι διεθνείς κάρτες στο Σουδάν και για να σου στείλουν χρήματα με ΜοneyGram ή Western Union το κόστος ήταν τρελό.
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Εκεί που πήγαμε να την πατήσουμε ήταν όταν αρρωστήσαμε και οι 2 και μας τελειώσαν τα λεφτά, με τα νοσοκομεία και τα φάρμακα και έπρεπε να βρούμε λύση. (πάθαμε και γω και ο Αλεχάνδρο bacterial infection στα αγγλικά, στα ελληνικά “βακτηριακή μόλυνση” αλλά δε μου ακούγεται δόκιμο.. δεν ξέρω.. πάντως το πάθαμε και η φάση ήταν εμετοί διάρροιες, στον Αλεχάνδρο ήταν πιο έντονο και έπρεπε να πηγαίνει στο νοσοκομείο για να παίρνει την αντιβίωση με ένεση… Οι συνθήκες υγιεινής στο χόστελ ήταν…. άστο).
Το νερό στο χόστελ, για την ακρίβεια.
Τεσπα, τελειώσαν τα χρήματα αλλά ευτυχώς είχαμε γίνει φίλοι με τον Βλαδίμηρο και τον Γουάλιντ (εκ Γαλλίας) στο χόστελ και ο πρώτος, που έκανε πρακτική στο Σουδάν σε μια γαλλική εταιρεία, κατάφερε και μας άλλαξε τα λεφτά με μία τρελή ισοτιμία, πάνω από 40.
Ναι, Βλαδίμηρος και Γουάλιντ, και Ρομάν αργότερα – κάναμε παρέα και δυνατές συζητήσεις γιατί και τα παιδιά ήταν φιλομαθείς και είχε ντόρο. Ξαναφούντωσε το ενδιαφέρον μου να μάθω Γαλλικά (η παγκόσμια-επικρατούσα γλώσσα το 2050, λένε) και γενικά τα περνάγαμε ωραία με Γουάλιντ που είναι σούπερ τυπάκι και είπα 2 λόγια στην προηγούμενη ανάρτηση.
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Στο Σουδάν κάναμε και Πρωτοχρονιά, στο χωριό Άμπρι. Μείναμε σε έναν πολύ ωραίο ξενώνα για να γιορτάσουμε την αλλαγή (που βασικά στις 00:00 κοιμόμασταν) και μία μέρα που καθόμουνα στην είσοδο και κοίταζα τα βιβλία δίπλα από την πόρτα είδα ένα βιβλίο με ελληνικό τίτλο. Έγραφε ΝΟΥΒΙΑ. Από το 2500 προ Χριστού ξεκινάει ο πολιτισμός των Νουβιων στην περιοχή που είναι τώρα Νότια Αίγυπτος και Βόρειο Σουδάν. O πολιτισμός αυτός έφτασε σε τέτοια ακμή που για κάποιο διάστημα όλη η Αίγυπτος ήταν υπό την κυριαρχία των Νουβίων. Το ξέρατε; δεν το ξέρατε. Ρωτάω τον ιδιοκτήτη του ξενώνα πώς και τα ελληνικά εδώ, μου λέει ότι η γραφή της νουβικής γλώσσας ήταν στο Ελληνικό Αλφάβητο για κάποια περίοδο…
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Γκουγκλάρω λίγο (από το Χαρτούμ εννοείται γιατί δε νοείται 3g εκτός πρωτεύουσας) και βλέπω ότι η ανάγκη της Πτολεμαϊκής Αιγύπτου (μετά τον Μ.Αλέξανδρο) σε ελέφαντες για στρατιωτική χρήση οδήγησε σε κατάκτηση της περιοχής και της πρωτεύουσας (κατά το βασίλειο των Kush) Meroe (πήγαμε) και στην εξάπλωση της ελληνικής γλώσσας και κουλτούρας. Ακόμα δεν είναι απόλυτα σαφές αν χρησιμοποιούσαν το ελληνικό αλφάβητο για να αποδώσουν την προφορική τους επικοινωνία (όπως έγινε στην Αίγυπτο για μία περίοδο) ή πραγματικά ήταν ευρέως διαδεδομένη η ελληνική γλώσσα. Κάτι που έγινε αργότερα, με τη διάδοση του Χριστιανισμού και της παράδοσης των Κοπτών, που και αυτοί είχαν αφομοιώσει το ελληνικό αλφάβητο.
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ΤΙ ΆΛΛΟ;
Το Σουδάν ήταν το μεγαλύτερο κράτος της Αφρικής πριν χωριστεί από το (νεώτερο κράτος στον κόσμο, πλέον) Νότιο Σουδάν, το 2011, με ένα δημοψήφισμα στο δεύτερο όπου 99% ψήφισε υπέρ της απόσχισης. Η βασική αιτία ήταν ότι το βόρειο τμήμα προσπαθούσε να επιβάλλει αραβική -μουσουλμανική κουλτούρα σε όλη τη χώρα παρόλο που το νότιο τμήμα είναι κυρίως χριστιανοί και άνθρωποι που ακολουθούν τοπικές παραδόσεις.
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Ο χωρισμός έφερε σε κρίση το Σουδάν (καθώς όλα τα πετρέλαια της χώρας ήταν στο Νότιο τμήμα) και εμφύλιο στο νεοιδρυθέν Νότιο Σουδάν.. (φαίνεται δε γίνεται ανεξαρτησία κράτους χωρίς κάποιου είδους εμφύλιο μετά) (γίνεται τελικά, δες Τανζανία)
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Παρόλο που εμείς είδαμε το Σουδάν απόλυτα ειρηνικό και φιλόξενο, η περιοχή του Δυτικού Σουδάν (που περάσαμε με λεωφορείο) που λέγεται Νταρφούρ…βρίσκεται σε κρίση από το 2003 με 300.000 νεκρούς και 3.000.000 εσωτερικούς μετανάστες, σύμφωνα με τον ΟΗΕ. αυτός είναι ο λόγος που ο πρόεδρος του Σουδάν (που πήρε την εξουσία με πραξικόπημα το 1989 και εκλέχτηκε το 1996) έχει καταδικαστεί για εγκλήματα κατά της ανθρωπότητας, γενοκτονία και εγκλήματα πολέμου. Αυτός είναι ο λόγος του εμπάργκο των ΗΠΑ. ΓΙΑΤΙ όμως ο πόλεμος; για τον ίδιο λόγο που αποσχίστηκε το Νότιο Σουδάν. Γιατί η κυβέρνηση καταπιέζει θρησκευτικά/εθνικά τους εν και περί Νταρφουρ, παρόλο που αυτοί δε θέλουν την αραβοποίηση. Ενδιαφέρον έχει ότι η κυβέρνηση του Σουδάν εκτιμάει τους νεκρούς σε… 10.000.. μόνο, αλλά επίσης ενδιαφέρον ότι η African Union (ο ΟΗΕ της Αφρικής), η Ρωσία, η Κίνα και μερικοί άλλοι δε συμφωνούν με την καταδίκη του προέδρου από το διεθνές δικαστήριο. Συμφέροντα..
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24118
302 πουκάμισα
Σήμερα πήγαμε στην κεντρική αγορά του Ομντουρμαν. Μεγάλη, ζωντανή, πολύχρωμη. άπειρο καυσαέριο, πολυς κόσμος, ουδεις τουριστας
μπαίνω στο ψητο γιατί με πονάει το χέρι μου και τα κουνούπια με τσακιζουνε
γυρίσαμε σ1 φορτηγό που κάναμε οτοστοπ. ο γουαλιντ φώναζε για κχαρτουμ για κχαρτουμ και μπήκαμε στην καροτσα με σαλτο
μέσα σουδανοί μα κάπως διαφορετικοι. Τα πρόσωπα . 10 – 12. νεαροί
από το νότιο σουδαν μας ειπε ο γουαλιντ – έρχονται εδώ να δουλέψουν , παίζει πείνα νότια (παρόλο που εχουν τα πετρέλαια) λόγω εμφυλίου.
ένιωσα ντροπή. 10-12 14-18 χρονών. φαινόταν ότι γυρνάν από δουλεια. δίπλα μου είχα έναν 14-15 χρονω που δε μου έδινε σημασία,
ντράπηκα. για το ρολόι μου. για τα γυαλιά ηλίου που πρώτηφορα σήμερα τα έβαλα εδώ και μήνες γιατι με πονάγανε τα μάτια μου.
Δε με κοίταζε – με ένα ύφος απαξιωτικό, οτι εγώ είμαι ο πλούσιος. Από την αρχή του Σουδάν κοιτάνε κ ζητάνε το ρολόι μου. Κι εκτός πόλης δεν έχω δει κανέναν με ρολόι
ντράπηκα για όλα αυτά που ειχα και για όλα αυτά που έχω. γιατί είμαι ταυτόχρονα χωρίς να είναι παράδοξο ένας καλομαθημενος κακομαθημένος. ένας καλοαναθρεμένος
Έδωσα το χέρι μου στον χαιρετισμό πάνω σε αυτούς τους νέους και ντράπηκα. πιο δουλεμένα και ξηρά τα χέρια τους και από 60χρονου αγρώτη.. της Ελλάδας… ένα χέρι μονο μπορεί να πει τόσα πολλά..
Η
πάει το ρολόι απο σημερα το αφήνω στο τσαντάκι.
και όλα τα φάνσι τα απομακρύνω παραυτα.
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12218
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-Ήρθε τώρα ο Νερουλας και είπα να γράψω. Eίμαι αλ κανταριφ . Τον είδα και λέω ω ρε φίλε, νερουλας, καπου υπήρχε αυτή η λέξη μέσα μου αλλά δεν νομίζω να την έχω ξαναχρησιμοποιησει. Ο νερουλάς είναι ένας γεράκος 60-κάτι χρόνων. Θα πεις δεν είναι γερός 60 κάτι αλλά σκέψου ότι εδώ ο 60κατι φαίνεται τουλαχιστον 75. 63 το προσδόκιμο στους άνδρες . το νερό είναι σε ένα κυλινδρικο μακρόστενο διμετρο μεταλλικό μπιτόνι , παράλληλα προς το έδαφος στηριγμένο σε μια μεταλλικη Κατασκευή που φέρει 2 μεγαλούτσικες ρόδες και 2 σιδερένιους σωλήνες που εκτείνονται μπροστά και δένουνε στον γαϊδαρακο. Το πιο ταπεινο, το πιο αγαθό το πιο υπομονετικο των ζώων . Σε όλη του τη δυστυχία παραμένει ανεκφραστο σε αντίθεση με την καμήλα ας πούμε που γκαριζει άμα της λες όλη την ώρα να πέσει στα γόνατα ή να σηκωθεί για να κατέβεις από αυτήν η να ανέβεις. Ο γάιδαρος εκεί. Στον ήλιο όλη μέρα (εδώ, τώρα, έχει 44 βαθμούς) λιποσαρκος, δεμένος σε όλο του το σώμα, από το λαιμό, από την κοιλιά από κατω για να φέρει το φορτίο, και ο νερουλας πρέπει να έχει και 200 λίτρα μέσα,. (είναι 200 , το ρωτησα μετά).Από πάνω του να κάθεται κάποιος , στη μούρη να ναι δεμένος πάλι. Να τον βαράνε δεξιά για να πάει αριστέρα και τ αναστροφο. Κι ο γαιδαρακος εκεί , ο πιο μειλιχιος των ζώων ο βασιλιάς μιας ομορφιάς που θέλεις να την αγκαλιάσεις και να τη χαϊδέψεις και να της πεις γαιδαρακο . Τι κάνεις γαιδαρακο μου . Τώρα είσαι ελεύθερος. Πήρα όλο το νερό εγώ για να το δώσω σε αυτούς που δεν εχουν Ούτε νερό κι έδωσα στον ιδιοκτήτη σου ένα μάτσο λουλούδια για να ταϊσει τα παιδιά του – είσαι ελεύθερος, χωρίς σκοινιά χωρίς ηλιοστάσιο υποχρεωτικό, χωρίς ξυλιές από καλάμια κατευθυντικες χωρίς σαμαρια από πάνω ή σωλήνες στο πλάι.
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Τι βαρβαρότητα που πρέπει να την υπομεινω σιωπηλός γιατί στη λίστα των προτεραιοτήτων για τη βελτίωση του πλανήτη ο γαιδαρακος είναι πολύ κάτω..
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Πάνω:
Χτες είδα 2 παιδιά , ο ένας με πορτοκαλι μπλουζάκι, κιο άλλος πιο μετά δεν πρόσεξα με τι γιατί κοίταζα τη σακούλα του. Δύο παιδιά με μια σακούλα στο χέρι μικρή, να τη φυσάνε και να τη ρουφάνε. Κοιτα μου λέει ο αλεχανδρο και μου δείχνει και τον τυπακο στα 25 που δεν μπορεί να σταθεί και ψάχνει που να βάλει τα χέρια να στηριχτεί ή ο άλλος πιο μετά που παραμιλαγε περπατώντας . Μου λέει είναι τα κλασσικά συμπτώματα. Εισπνέουν και εκπνέουν στη σακούλα κόλλα βιομηχανική πολύ δυνατή. Και όλοι μα όλοι γύρω κάνουν σα να μην τρέχει τίποτα. Παιδιά τα πρώτα 12(;) χρόνων …. Κι ο άλλος που σαν τυφλός έψαχνε στήριγμα και έκανε μια σκηνή παραπατώντας στη ζάλη του… Κι όλοι γύρω, νορμάλ. Ρώτησα τον τζαμαλ τι φάση;;; μου λέει τα λέμε παιδιά των δρόμων.. Και;; τι γίνεται ; τι φάση; παιδιά των δρόμων ξαναλέει.-α,μαλιστα. Πολύ μας παραξένεψε γιατί εδώ, σαρία γαρ , ούτε οινόπνευμα στο φαρμακείο δε βρίσκεις.Πρέπει να ψάξεις πολύ κι αν βρεις θασε ρωτήσουν χίλια πράγματα και το μπουκαλάκι νμικρο. Και γεμάτο μέχρι τη μέση και λες μα είναι άδειο σχεδόν και λένε όχι, έτσι είναι. Και λες θα εξατμιστηκε γιατι δεν κλείνει καλά και μετά ξαναπαιρβςις από άλλη πόλη και ειναι το ίδιο πάλι… παιδιά ναρκώνονται στο δημόσιο και το οινόπνευμα στο φαρμακείο τους πείραξε.
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Εχτές ποδηλατουσαμε έναν ήλιο ασυληπτο ασυληπτο. Άνεμος καυτός, ήλιος τσουροθφληστος, ιδρώτας ατελείωτος, σκια ανύπαρκτη για χιλιοοομετρα… Ο αλεχανδρο σχεδόν κατερευσε. Μου λέει δεν μπορώ νυστάζω φοβερά νυστάζω… (το ξέρω το αίσθημα ασφαλώς, το χω περάσει, κάνει σατ Ντάουν ο οργανισμός σου φιλικά , πριν λιποθυμήσει, σου λέει άντε για ύπνο μαν). Τεσπα θέλω να πω εκανα ποδήλατο σε αυτή την καμινο την ερημική και στο πλάι σπάνια μα τακτικά υπήρχαν γυναίκες μες στον ήλιο αν είναι δυνατόν σε αυτή τη στάση του σώματος που φαινεται άθλος σε μενα. Πόδια ίσια , κωλος φουλ τουρλα και σκυμενες να παίρνουνε την άμμο από το έδαφος να τη βάζουν σε κάτι κρισαρες και να τις κουνάνε. Στον ήλιο που σε τηγανιζει, φασκιωμενες με μαντήλια με φουστάνια με τα πάντα, λόγω θρησκείας, σε μια σταση σώματος που δε βγάζει λογική, εγώ δεν την υπομένω πάνω από 2-3 λεπτά. (είναι η ίδια σταση που βλέπω και στους αγρους , σκυμμενοι αλλά με μέση ίσια, όχι καμπυλωμενη, και πόδια επίσης ίσια). Εκεί για ώρες να κρισαρουν το τίποτα μηπως και βρούνε κάτι τις που να χει αξία – ούτε Που ξέρω. Εκείνες τις στιγμές σκεπτομενος αυτήν την υπερφυσική αντοχή στον ήλιο σκεφτόμουνα τους μαυρουληδες της Ελλάδας και της Ευρώπης που πάντα τους έβλεπα πολύ ντυμένους με φούτερ και κουκούλες και κασκόλ και σκούφια κι έλεγα καλά ρε παιδιά δεν κάνει τοσο κρύο….. Αν είσαι βιολογικα προορισμενος, αν είσαι φτιαγμένος για κατι άλλο… Τώρα καταλαβαίνω.
Για του λόγου το αληθές: το μαύρο δέρμα αντέχει 10 φορές περισσότερο από το λευκό πριν καεί και χρειάζεται 6 φορές περισσότερο ήλιο για να παράγει τη βιταμίνη D που χρειάζεται.
G(για
βλαντιμίρ και γουάλιντ
από το μπαλκόνι. την Πέμπτη το βράδυ, μιας και την Παρασκευή ήταν η αργία, είχανε έξοδο τα παιδιά..
Weeks 101-119 | Egypt
4 μήνες στην Αίγυπτο, δε βαρέθηκες;
ΙΕΡΟ ΟΡΙΟ
ο χρόνος της αφομοίωσης
ανάλογος του σεβασμού
η αφομοίωση του χρόνου
– όπως το μαρτυρούν οι πυραμίδες –
ο σεβασμός του θανάτου
υπάρχει αυτό το ιερό όριο… είναι ο κατώτερος δυνατός αριθμός ημερών/εβδομάδων/μηνών για να συναισθανθείς έναν τόπο. την αίγυπτο για να τη βιώσεις, θέλεις μάλλον μια ζωή. είναι ανεξάντλητη η πληροφορία που έρχεται από τους αιώνες και παράλληλα πολύπλοκη η καθημερινή πραγματικότητα. νομίζω ή θα τη μισήσεις ή θα την ερωτευτείς. αν μείνεις αδιάφορος, κάτι σου διέφυγε. εγώ αναρωτιόμουν ασταμάτητα και ο σεβασμός μου για τον λαό και την ιστορία του όλο και αυξανόταν…αυτό για τον… «χρόνο της αφομοίωσης», τώρα όσον αφορά στην «αφομοίωση του χρόνου»…
ΑΛΛΑΞΑ, ΜΕΙΝΕ ΗΣΥΧΟΣ
βλέπω πίσω τον χρόνο
και δεν ξέρω γιατί
– μάλλον θα ναι το του θανάτου –
θέλω να τον αξιολογήσω
και βρίσκω ένα μέτρο
σε αυτήν την άσκηση
το μέτρο των αλλαγών
μα 4 μήνες στην Αίγυπτο, και 2+ χρόνια να ταξιδεύει, και να ναι 28 χρονών.. πότε θα πιάσει δουλειά, πότε θα παντρευτεί, πότε θα προσφέρει κάτι στην κοινωνία? πότε θα γίνει παραγωγικός? πότε θα βγάλει λεφτά? και η απάντηση είναι αυτή παραπανω.
ο χρόνος δε μετριέται σε χρόνια, μετριέται σε αλλαγές. μετριέται σε ποιοτική μεταβολή του τρόπου που αντιλαμβάνομαι τον κόσμο και τα πράγματα. και σε αυτόν τον άξονα πάνω, τα σημεία είναι διακριτά και οι τομές βαθειές. τουλάχιστον σε μένα. η ενδοσκόπηση είναι προτεραιότητα και άσκηση για μια κατανόηση που αγκαλιάζει τη φύση, τον διπλανό μου, εμένα, το μεταφυσικό.
-Μα αυτό ποτέ δεν τελειώνει ! (μου είπε η γιαγιά μου στο τηλέφωνο Και συνέχισε “τι εγινε τώρα, Ε, σε μπλόκαρα;;; χαχαχααα)
Το ξέρω (γιαγιάκα μου), δε νοιώθω ακόμα έτοιμος να κάνω οτιδήποτε που να έχει αξία (Αξία, όχι… Υπεραξία 😉 ).Για τώρα, επενδύω στον πολλαπλασιαστή
4 μήνες στην Αίγυπτο και 2 στο Σουδάν = 6 μήνες στον αραβικό κόσμο…
ΚΑΦΕΝΕΊΟ ΑΙΓΥΠΤΙΑΚΌ
Ζάρια ζαλίζονται, ξερνιόνται και στροβιλίζονται στον αέρα
πετάνε σαν τα πουλιά και προσγειώνονται σαν τα πούλια
που σκάνε με τη σειρά τους με δύναμη εκκωφαντική
με τον κοφτό κ δυνατό ήχο που κάνει
το κόκαλο στο ξύλο٨.
Κι έτσι παντρεύεται η τυχαιότητα με την πεποίθηση της σιγουριας
Τα μι και τα ντο μιας αρμονίας αλλοκοτης παντρευονται στο ταχύ ανακάτεμα των και παλι κοκαλινων πλακιδίων, και νατη ξεκινά μια νέα παρτίδα
ντόμινο
Ο αργιλαναφτης κινείται με ιλιγγιώδη ταχύτητα
πότε με 3 αργιλεδες ανα χείρας
και ποτε θυμιατιζοντας παλινδρομικά
να κοκκινησουνε τα καρβουνακια του.
ενίοτε, για να τραβήξει τα βλέμματα ή για να επιταχύνει την διαδικασία – ποιος ξέρει?
γυροφέρνει μανιακά 360 μοίρες καθέτως την κουτάλα με τα καρβουνάκια
κι όμως κανένα δεν πετάγεται
αυτό είναι τέχνη σκέφτομαι και κοιτάω ολόγυρα να δω τι εξαιρείται από αυτόν τον ζωγραφικό πίνακα που συλλογικά δημιουργείται μόνο για τα μάτια μου , εδώ και τώρα
Μπουρμπουληθρες και καπνοί εύγευστοι
Τσάγια και πολύχρωμοι χυμοί
Ανεμιστήρες εν κινησει
Μια σύναξη αντρών που παίζει στο ιδιο μοτίβο εδώ κι αιώνες.
Κι εγώ ασπριδερός και πωγωνάτος, η εξαίρεση
παρατηρώ τον χώρο
παρατηρώ τη χώρα
Κεφάλια αντρών με μαύρη βούλα μετωπική από τις συγκρούσεις με το πάτωμα٠
χορογραφίες αντρικές, δημόσιες και ιδιωτικές
γονυκλισίες συντονισμένες προσευχητικές
5 τη μέρα τη λογική να κάνουν πέρα
κι απ’το παράθυρο περνούν
η ανυπαρξία της ελευθερίας,
η ελευθερία της ανυπαρξίας•
περπατούν χωρίς πρόσωπο
ενα ζευγάρι μάτια ή ούτε κι αυτό
μια μαύρη φιγουρα στον δρόμο
με 2 κόρες, κι αυτες στο ιδιο μονοπατι
Κοιταζόμαστε και ντρέπονται
χαμογελάνε με το χέρι μπροστά στο στόμα
άλλες κατεβάζουν το κεφάλι να μη με αντικρύσουν
πίνουν νερό σηκώνοντας το βέλο
και ένα βέλος με τρυπάει σα γίνομαι η ελευθερία των γυναικών
////// καααατ ////// Αλλαγή σκηνικού
6 μήνες μετά, εντός της σκηνής, εντός προαύλιου χώρου τεμένους, ανάσκελα
Τι καλοι οι μουσουλμάνοι, τους γουστάρω γιατί είναι χωμένοι για τα καλά στη φάση τους. καλή; κακή; πάει “πέρα απ’ το καλό και το κακό”, που λέει κι ο Νίτσε. Τους δίνω το point της αφοσίωσης. Aφήσαμε σήμερα τα ποδήλατα φορτωμένα για ώρες στο προαύλιο εδώ και τα βρήκαμε άθικτα. Η μεγάλη μου θλίψη της πρώτης περιόδου για την ανισότητα εις βάρος των γυναικών, για τη μηδενική ανοχή στην ομοφυλοφιλία, για την αδύνατη μετακίνηση ενός μουσουλμάνου σε άλλη θρησκεία κ για άλλα έχει πια μετασχηματιστεί σε μια ιδιόμορφη σφαίρα κατανόησης και μυστηρίου. Μυστήριο γιατί δεν μπορώ να έχω πλήρη γνώση με 6 μήνες που ζω αυτή τη θρησκεία. Βλέπω πολλά καλά στοιχεία και ανθρώπους ανοιχτόκαρδους. Αν πω ότι καταλαβαίνω το ισλαμ θα είναι ψέματα. Το ότι εγώ εισπράττω ως περιορισμό της ελευθερίας και εκμηδένιση της προσωπικότητας το να κυκλοφορεί η γυναίκα με μπούργκα που δε φαίνονται Ούτε τα μάτια της είναι απλά η γνώμη μου αν η ίδια η γυναίκα το απολαμβάνει. [Είναι το κλασικό (φιλοσοφικό) ντιμπέιτ περι αντικειμενικής/υποκειμενικής ύπαρξης της πραγματικότητας.] Αν αυτή νιώθει ελεύθερη εμένα τι με κοφτει. Kαι στ’ αλήθεια πιστεύω ότι πολλές νοιώθουν ελεύθερες πλήρως καλυμένες – σκέψου το, είναι σα να μην υπάρχουν. Πόσες φορές θα ‘θελες να ήσουν διάφανος; Αν δε νιώθει ελεύθερη τώρα, και πάλι εμένα τι με κόφτει. Με την έννοια ότι τη συμπονω, αλλά όπως και με τους ομοφυλοφιλους ή τους αποστάτες, η αλλαγή του ισλάμ είναι δική τους υπόθεση. Επίσης σκέφτομαι το ότι σε κάποια θέματα το ισλάμ έχει μείνει πίσω, δεν είναι κάτι το μεμπτό. Είναι κάτι το φυσιο-λογικό. Δεν υπήρξαν αρκετά ερεθίσματα στην πορεία του για να το τρέψουν προς μια πιο άνθρωπινη (σε κάποια θέματα) κατεύθυνση. Δεν πρέπει λοιπόν να εξάπτομαι. Αν οι εντός επιθυμούν την αλλαγή, ας την επιδιώξουν, κι ο υπόλοιπος κόσμος θα στηρίξει. Είναι αδύνατο πάντως να κρίνεις χωρίς να έχεις μια ολοκληρωμένη εικόνα.)
/////////// καααααατ /////////
….
άλλες κατεβάζουν το κεφάλι να μη με αντικρύσουν
πίνουν νερό σηκώνοντας το βέλο
και ένα βέλος με τρυπάει σα γίνομαι η ελευθερία των γυναικών
που τις σέβονται γενικά, κι αυτές αποδεχόμενες το πλαίσιο τους,
απολαμβάνουνε τον ρόλο τους. “αν με τιμάει ο άντρας μου, αρκεί, κι ας είμαι μία εκ τεσσάρων”
δε μου πε καμία πως κακοπερνάει, αλλά δε μίλησα και με πολλές γιατί δεν είναι κι εύκολο.
έκανα μια ασκηση πριν φύγω από την αίγυπτο, να θυμηθώ όσο πιο πολλά ονόματα αντρών μπορούσα
και ήταν πάνω από 20, των γυναικών ήτανε 3 – ραχήκ αέησα ραχήλ
βγαίνω να περπατήσω και σοκάρομαι
Κόκκινες μεγάλες γούβες νερου επί της ασφάλτου
Και το ρυάκι που τις ποτίζει
Σε μια ακέφαλη αγελάδα οδηγει
είναι κάποιου είδους γιορτή και κλαίνε με το αίμα τους τα ζωντανά
περιμένω στη σειρά να πάρω ένα φαλάφελ
και περιμένω και περιμένω
σε μια σειρά που δεν υπάρχει
χώνονται από παντού σα να μην τρέχει τίποτα
και αν τους πεις κάτι θα σου πουνε “ασφαλώς, προχώρα! δεν κατάλαβα πως είσαι κι εσύ εδώ. εγώ απλά πεινάω.” σόκραν χαμπιμπι, λαουσαμαχτ ετνίν φαλάφελ, ουαχαεντ φουλ, μισα’ά τάμπα, μπετινκιεζ ετνιιν, μπατάτα, μπαμπαγκανουζ, αρμπαα ταχίνα, σαλάτα ταλάτα١ χαχαχα πόσο?? 30 λίρες? 1μιση ευρώ και τρώνε 2 μέχρι σκασμου – το πιο εύγεστο (και λαδερό) φαγητό της ζωής μου.
1μιση ευρώ και παρόλαυτα ΌΛΟΙ μα όλοι παραπονιούνται για την αύξηση των τιμών….
“πήγανε τα τσιγάρα από 16 λίρες, 19, το φαντάζεσαι!? μας έλεγε ο τάμερ για το πακέτο των τσιγάρων. Το πιο αδιαμφισβήτητα παγκόσμιο φαινόμενο είναι ο πληθωρισμός.
μπαίνω στο τραμ και καπνίζουν, μες στο καφενείο καπνίζουν, μέσα στα ρουθούνια σου αν μπορούσαν θα καπνίζανε και αν τους έλεγες εεε μπάσα٢, είσαι μέσα στα ρουθούνια μου, θα σου λέγανε «αααα χίλια συγνώμη δεν το πρόσεξα, απλά ήθελα να καπνίσω» μαφιζ μουσκελα χαμπιμπι μου, άμιλι? κουλου ταμαμ το φάμιλι٣?
βγαινω από το τραμ, πλήρωσα 1 λίρα για να διασχίσω όλη την αλεξάνδρεια. θα πλήρωνα 2 στο μπροστινο βαγόνι με μόνο λόγο το ότι έχει κουρτίνες!! ένα βαγόνι ακόμα πιο μπροστά, μόνο οι γυναίκες
άντρες, μεγάλοι, πιο μεγάλοι και μικροί
πιασμένοι αγκαζέ ή χέρι χέρι να περπατάνε – τι ωραίο!
νεράκι όπου θες στον δρόμο, σε χώρα αραβική δε θα διψάσεις
και θα πλυθείς όπου το επιιθυμείς
είναι μέσα στο ισλάμ
Kοιτάω τα κτίσματα τ’ Αλεξανδρινά, πολλά μεγάλα, μπαρόκ αισθητική, αρχές 20ου αιώνα. Πολυκατοικίες που έχουν κάτι να πουν. Μια αίγλη φοβερή (του κοσμοπολίτικου παρελθόντος). Ένας περίεργος νόμος είναι σε ισχύ στην Αίγυπτο. Αν νοικιάζεις το σπίτι σου ας πούμε από το 1960 θα έχεις ενοίκιο του 1960, άντε λίγο παραπάνω. Αποτέλεσμα; 100 τετραγωνικά σπίτι στην Αλεξάνδρεια μπορεί και να πληρώνουν 10 ευρω το μήνα… και λιγότερα.
το χάος στον δρόμο είναι δίχως προηγούμενο. ο καθένας κάνει του κεφαλιού του μα κάπως, κάπως μυστηριωδώς βγάζουνε άκρη και όλα κυλάνε σχετικά ομαλά. υπάρχει μια ελευθερία. η ελευθερία της αταξίας και η συνεπακόλουθη «τραγωδία των κοινών» θα έλεγε ένας κακεντρεχής. εγώ μαγεύομαι
ο χρόνος κυλάει σε αργή κίνηση. δε βιάζονται για τίποτα. κούλου ταμάμ αλ χαμντουλιλά٤
μα έχουμε δουλειές, να κατεβάσουμε τα χαλιά, να ξεσκονίσουμε τα μπαλκόνια – μπόκρα ινσάλαχ٥
οι φωνες του μωεζίνη του εδώ παντρεύονται με του εκει και με του πιο κει
και ένα πέπλο ηχητικό κατακλύζει περιοδικώς τον ακουστικό ορίζοντα
όπου και να είσαι, ότι και να κάνεις, και μες στα ξημερώματα
σε μεθάει αυτή η επανάληψη η επιβλητική
αλαααααααααααααχ ά-κμπαρ٦
αν δεν είναι μωεζίνης θα είναι κόρνα. ένα γιγάντιο μπιιιιπ παίζει συνεχόμενα και αποτελείται απο δισεκατομυρια διακριτές κόρνες που αδιακρίτως δίνουν και παίρνουν μόνο και μόνο για να καλύπτουν την ανασφάλεια των οδηγών. η κόρνα στην αίγυπτο είναι δείγμα αντρισμού, έχω καταλήξει
η πόλη που πότε δεν κοιμάται δεν είναι η Νέα Υόρκη και καμία άλλη.
η πόλη που ποτέ δεν κοιμάται είναι το Κάιρο. θέλεις να κουρευτείς 4 η ώρα το πρωί? κανένα πρόβλημα
θέλεις να πάρεις φρούτα κανένα πρόβλημα, ό,τι και να χρειάζεσαι υπάρχει 24/7
μέγια μέγια ουάλα φράχε γκαμαέγια٧
γέλια!!
κι έμαθα αραβικά, τα βασικά, τα νουμερα και τους χαιρετισμούς, τα πόσο κάνει, τα πού είναι και τα ευχαριστώ παρακαλω. έμαθα πιο πολλά αραβικά απότι ο μέσος αιγυπτιος, αγγλικά. και κάνω μια συζήτηση τρίλεπτη και παραπάνω – πολύ ωραίο!
επίσης σε καμία άλλη χώρα δεν ένοιωσα μεγαλύτερη ασφάλεια. κι εδώ κρύβεται ένα μυστήριο. μία φωνή λέει «είναι το ισλάμ, αν κλέψεις θα σου κόψουν το χέρι» και έτσι ο φόβος λειτουργεί ανασταλτικά. δεν ξέρω αν είναι έτσι τα πράγματα, ίσως σε ένα βαθμό, αλλά στην Αίγυπτο δεν κόβουν χέρια. εγώ έβλεπα καλούληδες, δεν έβλεπα φοβισμένους. δεν ένοιωσα κίνδυνο ποτέ, και οι πολλοί, οι πάρα πολλοί που προσπάθησαν να με εξαπατήσουν με ποικίλους τρόπους, το γύριζα στο θρησκευτικό και τους έλεγα «ο αλλάχ βλέπει» κάνοντας τις απαραίτητες επεξηγηματικές χειρονομίες. η λέξη κλειδί για να κερδίσω οποιαδήποτε μάχη ήταν η λέξη «χαράμ», τουτέστιν «αμαρτία» – εκεί κατεβάζανε τα μάτια όλοι. ή ακόμα: «σιμέλ», αριστερά δηλαδή. οι «κακοί άνθρωποι» που χάσανε τον δρόμο τους, πάνε αριστερά.. δεν ξέρω πώς και γιατί, αυτό κατάλαβα και όταν το χρησιμοποιούσα έπιανε.. ή «μπλακ χάρτ», μαύρη καρδιά… κιαυτό τους ενοχλούσε.
το πλήθος και το ιστορικό βάθος των αρχαιοτήτων είναι αξεπέραστο.. ούτε που θ αρχισω
κι όμως στη γκίζα, που είναι γκρίζα γιατί το καυσαέριο είναι περισσότερο από το οξυγόνο, δίπλα ακριβώς από τις πυραμίδες, όποιος δεν ασχολείται με τον τουρισμό, δεν έχει πάει να τις δει. το πόσα πράγματα υπάρχουν για να εξερευνήσεις δε λέγεται. μιλάμε για έναν ασύληπτο πολιτισμό που η ακμή του ήτανε πριν απο την ακμή του αρχαίου ελληνικού. το αγαπημένο μας στα μουσεία και σε όλα τα αρχαία ήταν η ερμηνεία των ιερογλυφικών… μια απόλαυση που κρατούσε ώρες και η φαντασία να οργιάζει με αναπαραστάσεις 3 και 4 χιλιάδων ετών μπροστά μας αψεγάδιαστες. τι να σημαίνει το ένα και τι το άλλο… Και το θέμα δεν είναι τα σχεδιάκια στους τοίχους ή τα ονόματα των θεών ή το μέγεθος των πυραμίδων… το θέμα είναι ο συμβολισμός, τι όλα αυτά τα πραγματικά αρχαία υποδηλώνουν – τι μήνυμα φέρνουν για το πώς ήταν πράγματι η ζωή τότε, πρακτικά, αλλά και στον νου των απλών ανθρώπων.. αρχίζεις να διαβάζεις και να συνδυάζεις και να παρατηρείς και να ερμηνεύεις και να εννοείς το ατελείωτο της υπόθεσης, αλλά και ότι οι άνθρωποι αυτοί δεν ήταν καθόλου πρωτόγονοι… και σε πιάνει μια ανατριχίλα..
το 80 τοις εκατό απο αυτούς που κουβεντιάζαμε πιστεύει πως η επανάσταση του 2011 δεν έφερε καμία αλλαγή. παρόλαυτα η σύγχρονη ιστορία της Αιγύπτου τέμνεται από την επανάσταση. πλέον το αστείο αναμετάξυ μας αν θέλαμε να μιλήσουμε για το παρελθόν, ήταν «μπιφορ ρεβολούσιον». μίλαγες με ντόπιους και το μπιφορ ρεβολούσιον έδινε κι έπαιρνε με κύρια αίσθηση ότι πριν ήταν καλύτερα.
η καλοσύνη των ανθρώπων είναι ασφυκτική. είναι αγαθούληδες οι αιγύπτιοι δεν ξέρω πώς να το πω. σαν παιδάκια. ακόμα κι οι στρατιώτες στον δρόμο με τα καλάσνικοφ, αν κάτσεις να μιλήσετε λίγο, σε 10 λεπτά θα πεθαίνουν στα γέλια και θα πειράζουν ο ένας τον άλλον. ένα περίπατο πας το πρωί να πάρεις μοάγιαμ (νερό) και γυρνάς το βράδυ… οι συζητήσεις είναι ατελείωτες, το ενδιαφέρον είναι ατελείωτο, θα σε ρωτήσουνε τα πάντα, θα βγούνε 2 ώρες απο τον δρόμο τους για να σε πάνε εκεί που θέλεις. θα σε καλέσουνε στο σπίτι τους, θα σου φτιάξουνε τσάι κόσαρι που θα βάλουνε μέσα περίπου 85 κουταλιές ζάχαρη στο ποτηράκι του τσαγιου το μικρό.. φοβερό αυτό με τη ζάχαρη.. είναι το λαϊκό ναρκωτικό.. δίνει ενέργεια μου έλεγε ο ραμαντάν που σοβατίζαμε μαζί και δεν ήξερε ότι του κάνει τόσο κακό. έπινε 6-7 τσάγια την ημέρα με 5 κουταλιές ζάχαρη το ενα!!!, κοκα κόλα (4 λίρες το γυαλινο μπουκάλι των 330μλ), χυμό σόμπια (καρύδα) με έξτρα ζάχαρη, και κάπνιζε και ένα πακέτο τη μέρα. 1 κιλό ζάχαρη τη βδομάδα κατανάλωνε αυτός και η μιση αίγυπτος. για την κατάσταση των δοντιών….. ούτε λόγος!
από αυτά που κατάλαβα στην αίγυπτο υπάρχει αυτή τη στιγμή πολύ μεγάλο οικονομικό πρόβλημα γιατί έχει πέσει ο τουρισμός πάρα πολύ. μα πάρα πολύ. πήγα στις πυραμίδες και δεν υπήρχαν πάνω από 20 άτομα συνολικά. ενώ τις άλλες 2 φορές που είχα πάει στο παρελθόν γινότανε πανζουρλισμός. αυτή η πτώση έχει φέρει σαν αποτέλεσμα την απόγνωση πολλών, μα πάρα πολλών, που ασχολούνται με τον τουρισμό.
αυτό με τη σειρά του κάνει τους ανθρώπους να προσπαθούν με οποιοδήποτε τρόπο να βγάλουνε χρήματα. θα σου πουνε ψέματα,θα σε πρήζουν 1 ώρα γυροφέρνοντας σε, θα προσπαθήσουν να σε εξαπατήσουν αν με αυτόν τον τρόπο θα μπορέσουν να κερδίσουν κάτι από εσένα. αυτή είναι μια αλήθεια που τη βίωσα πολλές φορές
και εδώ ήταν το κρίσιμο σημείο, να δεις πέρα από τα φαινόμενα, τα πρόσωπα. και τα πρόσωπα ήτανε πάντοτε καλά και αγαθά και τα ψέματα ήτανε πάντα θέμα ανάγκης. εγώ σκεπτόμουν «η αξιοπρέπεια είναι αξιοπρέπεια», μα όλα πρέπει να τοποθετούνται στο πλαίσιό τους. αν δεν έχεις να ταΐσεις τα παιδιά σου, για τι αξιοπρέπεια μιλάμε.
=> η κατανόηση του διαφορετικού δεν είναι μία διανοητική επιταγή στα πλαίσια της ισοτιμίας και του πολίτικαλ κορεκτνες. η κατανόηση του διαφορετικού είναι πάλη με τον εγωισμό. η αλήθεια που έχω στο κεφάλι μου δεν είναι η μόνη αλήθεια. καταλαβαίνω και αποδέχομαι και συγχωρώ (κάνω δηλαδή χώρο) για να είμαστε όλοι μαζί. οπότε, όποτε και όπου υπάρχει ΘΥΜΟΣ, δεν έχεις συλλάβει σφαιρικά την κατάσταση, κάτι σου διαφεύγει από τον κόσμο του άλλου. (γι αυτό είναι ωραίος ο θυμός σαν αίσθημα. δείχνει το όριο.)
ο σεβασμός στην προσευχή..! σε οποιοδήποτε σημείο κλείνουνε τα παντζούρια της εξωτερικής πραγματικότητας, κλείνουνε και τα μάτια και γονατίζουν ανεξάρτητα με το τι συμβαίνει γύρω τους. στο καφενείο, στον δρόμο, στο εμπορικό κέντρο, πατά το πλέη ο μωεζίνης και μια ταπείνωση ξεχειλίζει στο δημόσιο. πολύ όμορφο.
η ιεροτελεστία του πλυσίματος ποδιών, χεριων, προσώπου πριν από την προσευχή είναι μαγευτική γιατί οι κινήσεις είναι τόσο ίδιες και αυτόματες σε όλους που φέρει ευδιάκριτα η επανάληψη τους την ιστορία αιώνων
το ισλάμ είναι εκπαιδευτικό σύστημα – δεν είναι απλή θρησκεία.
υπάρχει πολύ μεγάλος σεβασμός προς τους μεγαλύτερους.
κάτι πραγματικά αλλόκοτο φαίνεται είναι φαινόμενο, ειδικά στο νότο – να παντρεύονται ξαδέρφια μεταξύ τους. μιλάμε για φαινόμενο όμως.. ρωτάγαμε και ήταν κάτι το απόλυτα φυσιολογικό
σταθερό ίντερνετ μάλλον δεν υπάρχει πουθενά στην Αίγυπτο. πήγα στο εμπορικό κέντρο, στα σταρμπαξ που νόμιζα ότι θα βρω και δεν είχε ούτε εκει. σε ένα αλλο καφέ που βρήκα κοβόταν συνεχώς. στο εμπορικό κέντρο επίσης είδα τον μεγαλύτερο αριθμό σέλφις ανα λεπτό που έχω δει ποτέ στη ζωή μου..
και το θέαμα σέλφι με τη φουλ φέησ μαντήλα ήταν ιδιαίτερα αλλόκοτο.
στο ποδηλατικό κομμάτι ξεκίνησα πανηγυρικά με 210 χλμ από Αλεξάνδρεια για Κάιρο. δεν ξέρω πώς, αλλά ως συνήθως, κοιμήθηκα 2μιση ώρες πριν αναχωρήσω. είχα ούριο άνεμο όμως και βρέθηκα κάιρο πετώντας (για 2η φορά). μέσα στην όμορφη αλεξανδρινή δίνη δεν έκανα αυτά που είχα μστο μυαλό μου να κάνω στο μπλογκ οπότε σκέφτηκα “πρέπει να μείνω λίγο καιρό στο κάιρο πριν ξεκινήσω στην Αφρική”. οπότε το θέμα ήταν πού θα έβρισκα δωρεάν διαμονή για κάποιο διάστημα και καλό ίντερνετ. Επίσης ήθελα να συνδεθώ κάπως περισσότερο με τις πυραμίδες, οι οποίες από παλιά με σαγηνεύανε. η λύση ήρθε από το ίντερνετ και συγκεκριμένα απο το workaway. πλατφόρμα διαδυκτιακή που δίνει σε εθελοντές τη δυνατότητα να βρουν ένα μέρος στον κόσμο που να προσφέρουν με αντάλλαγμα διαμονή και διατροφή. Βρίσκω λοιπόν υπερ-ευκαιρία σε χόστελ δίπλα από τις πυραμίδες. τέλεια λέω, στέλνω μέηλ μου λένε οκ. κάνω 210 χλμ, φτάνω στη γκίζα και τελικά η εθελοντική δουλειά σε χόστελ είναι το χτίσιμο ενός άλλου χόστελ! χαχαχα, κουβαλήματα, τριψίματα, γκρεμίσματα, σκόνες και σοβατίσματα με αντάλλαγμα μια προαιώνια θέα (τις πυραμίδες) και μία απίστευτη συγκυρία…
τη γνωριμία μου με τον Αλεχάντρο από την Αργεντινή, ετών 33 και την Άσλευ από την Αυστραλία, ετων 23.
δημιουργείται ένα πολύ ισχυρό δέσιμο και περνάμε πάρα πολύ ωραία.
πάμε και μια εκδρομή όλοι μαζί, και με την Πίλη από το Μεξικό, στο Λούξορ (στον Νότο) και κει που διασχίζουμε τον Νείλο για να πάμε στην κοιλάδα των φαραω, μου ρχεται πάνω στο ποταμόπλοιο μια ιδέα!! πλησιάζω τον Αλεχάνδρο και του λέω – ψήσου να βρούμε μια βάρκα, μια βαρκούλα, κάτι που να πλέει και να διασχίσουμε όλη την Αίγυπτο πάνω στον Νείλο. Θα δούμε όλα τα αρχαία, θα πάμε στα χωριά, θα είμαστε ήσυχοι κι ωραίοι, θα γνωρίσουμε τον ποταμό…! κι ο Αλεχάνδρο μου λέει “ελπίζω να το εννοείς γιατί η ιδέα με συναρπάζει» . αυτό ήταν. ξεκίνησε ένα κυνήγι στα όρια του παραλόγου για το πώς θα διασχίσουμε την Αίγυπτο επί Νείλου. ήταν πολύ καλό όμως για να είναι αληθινό και τελικά 1 μήνα αργότερα συμβιβαστήκαμε με ένα ταξίδι από το Ασουάν στο Λούξορ και πίσω, με φελούκα. η φελούκα είναι το αρχαίο αιγυπτιακό ιστιοφώρο. χωρίς μηχανή.
και τι δεν κάναμε όμως για να καταφέρουμε να ταξιδέψουμε όλον τον αιγυπτιακό Νείλο. η βάρκα που σκεφτόμασταν στην αρχή ήταν αδυνατη ως επιλογή. με μηχανή ήταν πανάκριβη (η αγορά) και με κουπιά χρονοβόρα (η διέλευση). οι ντόπιοι μας έλεγαν τρελούς. μετά μάθαμε για τη φελούκα. η φελούκα ήθελε οδηγό (πρώτη ξενέρα), ο οδηγος ήθελε λεφτά (δεύτερη ξενέρα) αλλά αν είμασταν παραπάνω άτομα η τιμή θα ήταν πολύ χαμηλή. λέμε το πλάνο σε 2 ακόμα εθελοντές στο χόστελ, τον Τζάξον από Αυστραλία και τον Γιόριν από Βέλγιο και ψήνονται. είμαστε 4 και η Άσλεϋ που έχει φύγει από την Αίγυπτο και είναι στην Ευρώπη ακούει το πλάνο και είναι μέσα να ξανάρθει. πλέον οι 4 εν Αιγύπτω ψάχνουμε μανιακά περπατώντας όλο το Κάιρο για 5 ώρες κάθε μέρα μετά τη δουλειά, να ρωτάμε ασταμάτητα για φελουκα και καπετάνιο που δέχεται να κάνει το ταξίδι που είναι σε όλους πρωτάκουστο. κάποιοι λένε ναι, κάποιοι όχι, και γενικά κανείς δεν ξέρει αν γίνεται καν ένα τέτοιο ταξίδι. οι περισσότεροι καπετανιοι γελάνε…με φελούκα?? ιμποσιμπλ! με σκάφος με μηχανή μόνο, μα δε θέλουμε με μηχανή,με φελούκα! βρίσκουμε έναν, τον πιο παλιο και έμπειρο, το χει ξανακάνει 2 φορές πριν από 10 χρόνια.από τα χείλια μας βγαίνει / και το όνομα αυτου, Αμήν! ο Αμήν θέλει 250 ευρώ από τον καθένα για ένα ταξίδι που θα κρατήσει 1 μήνα. καλό μα αρκετά τα χρήματα. φεύγουμε και πάμε Ασουαν, μήπως και μας βγαίνει πιο φτηνά να το κάνουμε ανάποδα. 1000 χιλιόμετρα με το τραίνο και ρωτάμε για 3 μέρες απο το πρωί μεχρι το βράδυ όλους τους καπετάνιους φελούκας, 1-2 το κάνουν αλλά δεν ξέρουν αν μπορούν να πάρουν άδειες. μία από την αστυνομία του νείλου μία από την τουριστική αστυνομία. με καποιους βγάζουμε άκρη και πάμε με έναν ταξιδιωτικό πράκτορα που (επι πληρωμη ασφαλώς) θα συνυπεγραφε για να πάρουμε τις άδειες,τα κανονίζουμε όλα και το επόμενο πρωί που θα πηγαίναμε για 2η φορά στην αστυνομία μας λένε μια άκυρη τιμη 4 φορές πάνω από τη χτεσινή και τσακωνόμαστε κει, απελπιζόμαστε. εν τω μεταξυ όλα αυτα με άπειρες αναμονές (είμαστε στην Αίγυπτο) με τσάγια που κρατάνε 2 ώρες, με καπετάνιους που θέλουν αλλά δεν μπορούν, που λένε ότι τους έρθει απλά γιατι θέλουνε τα χρήματα… μια τρέλα. παίρνουμε τον αμην στο κάιρο και τον ρωτάμε αν μπορεί να εξασφαλίσει τις άδειες. λεει ναι. τον ξαναρωτάμε, εγώ τον πήρα τηλ, λέει ναι, μπορώ. Αμήν και πότε του λέω και μου λέει “κι από σήμερα” – ξαναπάμε κάιρο με το τραίνο, πάμε σπίτι αμην που από σήμερα μας το κανε αυριο και απο αυριο μεθαύριο, οι μέρες κυλάνε, συνειδητοποιούμε ότι για να το κάνουμε για 1 μήνα πρέπει να έχουμε έγκυρη βίζα, η οποία έληγε…..
πάμε και οι 4 για ανανέωση βίζας…μιλάμε για τη γραφειοκρατία του αιώνα… ακόμα με χαρτιά δουλεύουν… έχουνε υπολογιστές στα γραφεία τους, αλλά 1/10 τον χρησιμοποιούσε.. να περιμένουμε από τις 5 έξω από την αστυνομία η οποία μετά απο 7 ώρες αναμονή να κοιτάει τα χαρτιά μας για 15 δευτερόλεπτα και να μας στέλνει στο Μουγκάμα (στο υπουργειο), στο μουγκάμα άλλη μέρα, 5 ώρες αναμονή να μας στέλνουν στην αστυνομία της γκίζας και απο κει πάλι στο μουγκάμα, όλα σε κουτσα αγγλικά και με αιγύπτιους δημόσιους υπαλλήλους……… τι να πω.. δεν υπάρχουν λόγια… η πλάκα ειναι ότι όλη αυτη τη φάσημε τη φελούκα τη βιντεοσκοπούσα απο την αρχη, κομματάκια, – θα τανε το πριν του ταξιδιου στον νείλο – και μια μέρα που μαστε έξω απο το υπουργειο για 4η φορά,περιμεν0υμε 7 η ωρα το πρωι ακομα οι πορτες κλειστες μαζι με άλλα 200 ατομα απέξω, αιγύπτιοι παππουδες γιαγιαδες αναπηροι, τουρίστες, φτωχοί παμφτωχοι με χαρτια στα χέρια μετανάστες ενας πανζουρλιζμος χωρίς προηγούμενο και ξάφνου σε μια από τις πύλες κάποιος τρυπώνει ανάμεσα από τους στρατιώτες στην εισοδο κάνουν να τον πιασουν δημιουργείται κενό και μία εισροή από απελπισμένους που ξεχύνονται μες στο υπουργείο να πάνε έξω από το ταμείο ή το γραφείο που χρειαζεται για να ναι πρώτοι στη σειρά.. χωνόμαστε και μεις και μες στο τρέξιμο που να μας εχουν πιάσει τα γέλια με αυτά που ζουμε έχω την καμερούλα στα χέρια και τραβάω βίντεο (παρακάτω). φτάνω στο ταμείο που πρέπει για την ανανέωση της βίζας που χτες απλά μας έδιωξε στις 10 το πρωί γιατί τσακώνονταν απέξω για τη σειρα και εκνευρίστηκε φωνάζοντας μποκρα μπόκρα (αύριο) και έκλεισε το παραθυράκι , ναι φτάνω στο ταμείο και έρχεται ένας αστυνομικός και μου πιάνει τον ώμο και μου λέει κάμερα.,λέω ΩΧ Μ@Λ@ΚΙ@ ΠΑΙΧΤΗΚΕ. με πάνε σε ενα γραφείο, παίρνουνε την κάμερα, ο διευθυντής δεν ξέρω τι ήταν, με στρατιωτικά, μου σκάει μια κλωτσια για να με στείλει στη γωνία και ξεκινάνε να περιεργάζονται τηνκάμερα. τεσπα, μετά απο 3 ώρες και 3 γραφεία πήρα την κάμερα και τα περιεχόμενα. πήραμε και την επέκταση της βίζας μετά απο 1 εβδομάδα και άπειρα (για την αίγυπτο) λεφτά και πάμε στον αμην που υποτιθεται τα χε όλα έτοιμα και σκάει ένα κονε του φελουκο ιδιοκτήτη που ήταν στην αστυνομία (εμείς είχαμε ξαναπάει στα κεντρικά της ΄τουριστικής αστυνομίας στο κάιρο και μόνοι μας, μα δε νοιώθανε αγγλικά εκεί ούτε οι διευθυντες) παίρνει διαβατήρια ξερω γω φωτοτυπίες κλπ και σε 2 μέρες έχουμε μια άδεια που με την άδεια του καπετάνιου και την άδεια της φελούκας και την άδεια από αποθέματα ελπίδα μας θα πάει ένα άλλο κονέ στην αστυνομία του Νείλου να πάρουμε το πολυπόθητο τελευταίο χαρτί μετά από ένα μήνα διαδικαστικών κυμάτων για ταξιδι σε ποταμό (ανήκουστο). και κει τρώμε το όχι το τελικό, πάλι περιμένοντας κανα 2ήμερο και παίρνουμε την απόφαση ότι ταξίδι από το Κάιρο μέχρι το Ασουάν με φελούκα, νόμιμο, δε γίνεται.
τα παίρνουμε με τον Αμήν που εξ αρχής μας έλεγε Ι’m in, ο καημένος, που ταν 60 χρονών με 3 κόρες,η τελευταία 13, είχαμε πάει και σπίτι του και μας έλεγε δεν πεθαίνω για να ταίσω τις κόρες μου, που η γυναίκα του άφαντη, δεν ξέρουμε πώς και γιατί., τα παίρνουμε με τον Αμήν κι ο αμήν να λέει έκανα ότι μπορούσα… -Μα, μας είπες ότι μπορούσες.. – Ε, έτσι νόμιζα… τι να πεις… λέει υπάρχει μια εναλλακτική, ξαναφουντώνουν οι επιθυμίες μας, λέει υπάρχουν φελούκες κάργκο μεγάλες που κάνουν τη διαδρομή, μπορω να σας βάλω σε μία. πάμε να βρουμε τις φελουκες τίποτα, δεν μπορούσε, λέει αν πάτε στην Αλ Μίνια, μια πιο μικρή πόλη μετά το Κάιρο πριν το Μπένι Σουέφ νομίζω, μπορείτε,. φεύγουμε με το τραίνο πάμε αλ μίνια, βγαίνουμε από το τραίνο και από τότε μέχρι μια μέρα μετα έχουμε αστυνομία να μας ακολουθεί σε κάθε μας βήμα. συνοδεία παντού, απο το τραινο στο χοτελ΄,από το χοτέλ στο φαλαφελάδικο, από το φαλαφελάδικο στο ναργιλάδικο, να κερνάμε και τα τσαγια στους αστυνομικους χαχαχα και πού να πάμε στον νείλο να ρωτήσουμε για φελούκες. ακυρο και αυτο το πλάνο και την κάνουμε για Ασσουάν ηττημένοι να κάνουμε ενα… τουριστικο 15ημερο ασσουαν λουξορ ασσουαν. πολύ δυνατο, αλλά λίγο σε σχέση με αυτό που είχαμε στον νου μας. εν τω μεταξύ είχε έρθει και η ασλευ και βρισκομαστε σε μια φελούκα οι 5 μας με τον τρομερο Τάμερ και τον αεικίνητο Άημαν για καπετάνιους. Αξέχαστο!
αργό.
πανέμορφη φύση ολόγυρα, μπάνιο στον Νείλο, χρώματα της δύσης απίστευτα, αστέρια δυνατά, 7 άτομα σε 10 τετραγωνικά μέτρα για 15 μέρες. πολύ δυνατή εμπειρία – σε προσωπικό επίπεδο φανερώνονται οι αδυναμίες σου υπο τέτοιες συνθήκες. επίσης, αδελφοποίηση με τάμερ και άημαν,συζητήσεις κ αγάπη!!
Τελειώνει το ταξίδι και η ώρα που τελειώνει και η παραμονή μας στην Αίγυπτο πλησιάζει.. λέω στον αλεχάντρο, μανίτο ψήσου να πάρεις ποδήλατο και να κατεβούμε Σάουθ Άφρικα, Κέηπ Ταουν παρέα και η απάντηση ήταν Πορκέ νο, γιατί όχι, δηλαδή. ΞΑΝΑΜΑΤΑΚΑΤΕΒΑΊΝΟΥΜΕ κάιρο με το τραίνο από το Ασουάν, (διαδρομή που την έκανα π έ ν τ ε φορές πήγαινέλα ! 13 ευρω η φορά) και ψάχνουμε για 3-4 μερες ποδήλατο, στα μαγαζιά, στις αγγελίες (να παίρνουμε τηλέφωνα, να βρίσκουμε αιγυπτιους στον δρόμο που μιλάνε αγγλικα για να συνεννοηθούν για την αγγελία και για το ραντεβού), και πού δεν πήγαμε… βρήκαμε τελικά κάτι αξιοπρεπές και έκανε μεγάλη έκπτωση ο ποδηλατας και το πήραμε και ξανακατεβήκαμε ασσουάν που εγώ είχα το δικό μου ποδήλατο για να ξεκινήσουμε.
Χαρούμενος πολύ που θα συνεχίσω με Αλεχάνδρο που είναι μια πολύ δυνατή φυσιογνωμία και που οι συζητήσεις μας τελειώνουν τα ξημερώματα.
λύνουμε τα διαδικαστικά και ξεκινάμε από Ασσουάν για άμπου σιμπελ, που είχαμε ήδη πάει μια φορά για να δούμε τον αρχαιολογικό χώρο. το τρελό είναι ότι ανα διαστήματα και για πολύ ώρα μας ακολουθούσε στην έρημο η αστυνομία. φτάνουμε σε κάποια φάση σε ένα αστυνομικό τμήμα και βλέπουμε 2 ακόμα ποδήλατα σαν τα δικά μας, φορτωμένα.η Κολίν από Σάουθ Άφρικα και ο πίτερ, 60 χρονών, νεοζηλανδός, μου κάνει κάπου το ξέρω αυτό το ποδήλατο… α του λέω, κοιτα να δεις, είμαι διάσημος, χαχαχαχ
έρχεται μετά από λίγο και μου κάνει ναι ναι έχεις ξάδερφο στην Ελλάδα??? ο ξαδερφος μου ο Σταμάτης του είχε δείξει σε φωτογραφία το ποδήλατο, πριν κάμποσους μηνες σε ένα κάμπινγκ στην Ελλάδα που έτυχε να βρεθούνε!!!
και για να κλείσουν ονειρικά οι 4 μήνες στην Αίγυπτο, κάναμε Χριστούγεννα σε ένα βράχο με απίστευτη θέα!
1000 Ευχαριστώ στον Δημήτρη Κάβουρα, στον κ.Άρη (και στον Μοχάμεντ) από την Ελληνική Κοινότητα Αλεξανδρείας, και όπως πάντα στον Ηλία!
٠ Mερικοί πιστοί μουσουλμάνοι έχουν ένα μαύρο σημάδι στο μέτωπο από τις πολλαπλές γονυκλισίες κατά τη διάρκεια της προσευχής. Το σημάδι είναι το αποτέλεσμα της τριβής του μέτωπου με το έδαφος. Θεωρείται από κάποιους ως σημάδι πίστης. Περισσότερα
١ σόκραν χαμπιμπι, λαουσαμαχτ ετνίν φαλάφελ, ουαχαεντ φουλ, μισα’ά τάμπα, μπετινκιεζ ετνιιν, μπατάτα, μπαμπαγκανουζ, αρμπαα ταχίνα, σαλάτα ταλάτα = ευχαριστώ αγαπητέ, παρακαλώ 2 φαλάφελ (σάντουιτς), ένα φουλ, (ένα) κεσεδάκι μουσακά, δύο μελιτζάνες, πατάτες (τηγανιτές), μπαμπαγκανούς, 4 ταχίνι, 3 σαλάτες
٢ μπάσα = νομίζω έρχεται από το πασάς – το χρησιμοποιούσα σα.. «φίλεεε!»
٣ μαφιζ μουσκελα χαμπιμπι μου, άμιλι? κουλου ταμαμ το φάμιλι = κανένα πρόβλημα αγαπητέ μου, τι κάνεις? όλα καλά με την οικογένεια?
٤ κούλου ταμάμ αλ χαμντουλιλά = όλα καλά, δόξα τω Αλλάχ
٥ μπόκρα ινσάλαχ = αύριο πρώτα ο Αλλάχ, σχεδόν πάντα το μπόκρα συνοδεύεται από ινσάλαχ
٦ αλαααααααααααααχ ά-κμπαρ = ο Αλλάχ ο μεγαλοδύναμος. Έτσι ξεκινάνε οι προσευχές
٧ μέγια μέγια ουάλα φράχε γκαμαέγια = (μεταφορικά) όλα πάνε τέλεια (κυριολεκτικά) μέγια μέγια είναι 100 τοις 100, η φράση ολόκληρη μεταφράζεται (αν κατάλαβα καλά) ως «είμαι καλύτερα από τα κοτόπουλα στην αγορά»…. Κάθε φορά που το λέγαμε πεθαίνανε στα γέλια οι Αιγύπτιοι. Στο Σουδάν μας στραβοκοιτάγανε… (δεν ήταν παροιμία εκεί χαχα)
٨ μου είπανε στο καφενείο ότι τα πούλια, όπως και τα ζάρια και τα πλακίδια του ντόμινο ήταν φτιαγμένα από κόκκαλο
⇑ το αραβικό σύστημα αρίθμησης
😀 😀
αστυνομία στο υπόβαθρο
το μεσημεριανό μας στο χόστελ που δουλεύαμε εθελοντικά.. μισα΄ά
πόσο τους αρέσει να κάνουν περίτεχνες διακοσμήσεις. επίσης, τυπικό, οι πλανόδιοι μικροπωλητές να στοιβάζουν την πραμάτια τους με τον πιο εξεζητημένο τρόπο
🙂
επι τω έργω
πηγαίνουμε το ποδήλατο σε ένα φίλο του τάμερ να το κρατήσει όσο θα μαστε Κάιρο για να βρούμε ποδήλατο για τον Αλεχάντρο
Σήφης και Αλέξανδρος, Αλεξάνδρεια!
μμμμμμμμμμμμ
δε χασμουριέται. δε την παλεύει
2 λεπτά από το χόστελ που δουλεύαμε και μέναμε. πάμε προς τα εκεί
.
..
50 μέτρα από το χόστελ
mcDonald’s πίσω από τον ναό στο Λούξορ, αν ενδιαφέρετε κανείς για μετά
από το μπαλκόνι. την Πέμπτη το βράδυ, μιας και την Παρασκευή ήταν η αργία, είχανε έξοδο τα παιδιά..
Pily from Mexico!!
////// καααατ ////// Αλλαγή σκηνικού 6 μήνες μετά, εντός της σκηνής, εντός προαύλιου χώρου τεμένους, ανάσκελα
Ένα τελευταίο που παίρνει πολύ ανάπτυξη, αλλά πέρασε η ώρα, θέλω να το αφήσω εδώ, για να σημάνει χρονικά μια αρχή σημαντική για μένα. Το γεγονός ότι απο 7 Δεκεμβρίου 2017, που ήμουν ακόμα στην Αίγυπτο έγινα βίγκαν. Δηλαδή σταμάτησα να καταναλώνω ζώα και ζωικά προιόντα. Από τότε που είχα γνωρίσει τον Δαυίδ (βίγκαν κι αυτός) στην Μπογκοτά της Κολομβίας και μου είχε μιλήσει λίγο για τη φάση, είχα γίνει ψιλο βετζετέριαν, δηλαδή καθόλου ζώα. Αλλά, πλέον, και μετά από άπειρη έρευνα και συζητήσεις με τον Αλεχάνδρο (που είναι βίγκαν) το πήρα οριστική απόφαση. Είναι πολύ μεγάλη κουβέντα αλλά για μένα το βασικό επιχείρημα, εν συντομία απόλυτη, είναι ότι αν θες να είσαι σε (επι)κοινωνία με τη φύση, αν θες να λες «αγαπώ τη φύση», δεν μπορείς να σκοτώνεις τα ζώα για να τα φας. Ειδικά από τότε που η επιστήμη λέει ότι μπορείς να είσαι απόλυτα υγιής χωρίς να τρως ζώα. Σκέφτηκα λοιπόν, οτι δεν μπορώ να λέω πως αγαπώ τη φύση και ταυτόχρονα να σκοτώνω τα ζώα μόνο και μόνο γιατί μου αρέσει η γεύση τους. Με παρόμοιο σκεπτικό και το κομμάτι της κατανάλωσης ζωικών προιόντων, αλλά όπως προείπα είναι μεγάλη συζήτηση, παρά το απλόν της υποθέσεως, και θα την κάνω κάποια άλλη στιγμή επικεντρώνοντας μόνο σε αυτό.
Καλή δύναμη σε όλους και πολλά πολλά φιλιά σε σένα!!
Weeks 91 – 96 | Argentina
Oops… one step back to Chile…
I received a surprise-video from Alain Feytie, from France, who I met with his lovely wife, Régine while cycling towards the Chile-Argentina borders. I have no words to thank Alain for this really really beautiful video! Enjoy.
And now, at the same time period, my own video attempting to document my last ascend to the Andes. The quality is clearly lower, a first-person-shooter account, haha!
I entered Argentina at Paso Jama. It was the end of June and the cold was extreme. The weather forecast was giving -10 degrees Celsius and on top of that the wind you feel while cycling… I suffered a bit in the mornings, but all good.
The first village I spent two nights in Argentina was Purmamarca. Seemed to be a tourist destination mainly because of the
I had some absolutely necessary time off there. Because of the steep and continuous climbs for many days I had developed saddle sores that were very painful and actually there was something more like a wound in the area. I had to “borrow” a little cushion from the hostel in order to put it on the saddle and ride peacefully to Salta. 193 km in total with approximately 120 km of downhill, and almost half of it steep enough so I can relax and enjoy a pedal-free joyful ride.
Salta
means jump in Spanish. And this was what I did, since I met Javier at the hostel. The man was so connected in Salta that I needed to pay no entrance or look for where to go or anything. He knew everyone, we where entering for free at the best clubs, straight to the VIP – hahaha.
Yes.. some party time was necessary as my time from San Pedro, Chile to Salta in Argentina, was tough… Some mindlessness too, that can be depicted…
Tucuman
Being in a hurry to reach Buenos Aires as soon as possible, I wanted to pass through Tucuman without a stop. My plan was to just spend the night there. However, I couldn´t find a free bed in the whole city the reason being that the following day, the 9th of July, was Argentina´s independence day and Tucuman was the city that in 1816, what was at that point Argentina, declared independence from the Spanish rule.
Ok, I said, I’ ll stay one more day in order to enjoy the National Parade. And so I did.
Very interesting indeed and to be honest it made me think. There was an intense moment for me, that I also happened to record it (video RMCA below, min 01:26). It is the moment where a young man passes in front of the crowd and shouts “viva la patria!” (= ζήτω η πατρίδα) again and again. Which is ok on the one hand, but on the other hand it makes me think: do we have any kind of celebrations for the whole planet? Do we have any kind of let’s say national activities that celebrate the things we have in common with other nations, or activities that celebrate peace and love among people independent of their country of origin. I am in favor of loving your country but this without putting it on top of other countries.
These thoughts come in hand with some discussions I had in Nasca, Peru (and also in other places) with young people from Spain, telling me they are not proud of being Spanish (because of the colonialist actions). And I was processing this thought in my mind as to where there should be a thing like “I am proud of being… Greek” let’s say.
Greece has a tremendous history and, undoubtedly, influenced the world a lot. However, should this make me more proud for being Greek than an Albanian being an Albanian, or a South Sudanese being a South Sudanese (South Sudan is the newest country in the world, 2011)? What did I do in order to feel proud? The fact that I was born in Greece and I am related in a way to all philosophers or great poets was pure luck. What I feel is a need to continue this great work, which seems more like a “burden”/responsibility than a reason to be proud. Quite the contrary, I feel shame for the current situation in Greece, given the fact that we have such a historical backround.
I don’t know, I am thinking that one of the results of parades and similar activities is fueling competition between countries and not unity. I can’t just say, though, I am against parades. I am thinking about it…
Cordoba
I had such a lovely time in Cordoba. On the one hand I was spending time and energy in finding sponsors to fund the air tickets to go to Africa and also to buy better equipment. On the other hand, the hostel was amazing, and I was surrounded by enjoyable and, also, thought-provoking people. I spent time with Yohan, whose name for me was Francia, haha and also with Thales. Thales, well guessed, comes from Greece, but grew up in France. It was a pleasure to speak Greek again, after months, and also be with such a nice guy! At times we were accompanied by… the mystery man. The mystery man left Buenos Aires because he did something really bad, I suspect some kind of robbery, and he just had to run away in order not to end up in jail. This guy was travelling without money. Without money at all. I told him at some point, we go to dance, come, he said I have no money. Another day I told him we go for beers, he said no money. Ok, myself sometimes I say I have no money at some occasions. But the complete phrase is “I have no money for this“. That is, my priorities are different and I won’t put my money on this. This man had absolutely no money. no money at all. He left Buenos Aires hitchhiking, he asked for food and he received food. he told his story at a truck driver and he gave him some money, so he found the cheapest hostel in cordoba to stay for 3-4 days. His plan was to leave the country… Crazy people around, eh? There was also some other beautiful people, el Chef, el Tucumano, el piloto… They were more than 40 years old, working in Cordoba for some time….. They had a particular life style that I can’t really share, but… very interesting!
Buenos Aires
Last, but not least, and definetely least comes… Buenos Aires! Throughout my stay in Argentina I couldn’t help but think that I am leaving from South America, Buenos Aires being the point of departure, my last city. I was thinking, the last ride, the last night, the last hostel. Everything had a dramatic bit into it. I loved South America a lot and in many ways it changed my life.
After spending some time at the kitchen of one hostel where I found very cheap “bed” and walking around and playing ping pong with Christian, I finally found myself in a very fancy area that, paradoxically, the cheapest hostel of Buenos Aires was located. I needed a proper bed and space in order to organise the next leg of my journey.
While the whole “crew” there was fun I had the pleasure to spend most of my time with Agostina (Argentina) and Pierre (France). We danced, visited museums, talked on life but most importantly we walked around. Pierre had one of the apps that count your steps and one day we had a walk of more than 30 km and at night we were dancing till 0800 in the morning!
Pierre
Agostina
Pierre and Agostina
Anaís and Alejandro
Christian!
it is what it is
Buenos Aires is full of parks..! We also went to the Ricoleta Cemetery, the Boca Juniors stadium and neighborhood, and the central Obelisk plaza.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Some friend of Agostina’s, musicians!
Being at Buenos Aires in a transitional stage (leaving Latin America, thinking of Africa) it felt just right being with Agostina and Pierre.. She, 21 years old, a bit crazy and revolutionary; he, 36, mild and calm (but still vibrant!)… Me, being age-wise in the middle, it felt like my past and my future combined.. In a crucial transitional moment… since the question of how much this trip is gonna last is never muted..
The idea was a bit crazy but there was no other cheap alternative. Find the right card boxes and ride with them to the airport, and there, do all the necessary… packaging.. It worked well 😉
All the above was my… whereabouts in Argentina. As to my… howabouts (haha):
… and also this …
Gems of Argentinian music…
Mercedes Sosa was an Argentine folk singer whose politically charged repertory led her to be known throughout Latin America as “the voice of the voiceless.” I found not even one person who was not respecting and admiring her. The natural way she sings is amazing. It worths listening to most of her songs.. here, two of my very favorites. The first one, a poem by the Uruguayan writer Luis Ramón Igarzábal… So good that it deserves learning spanish in order to understand it. The second one, a poem by the Chilean musician, Violeta Parra… just incredible!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxKUtDwVb50
This suggestion has an awkward beauty. It’s a modern version of a folklore song. The singer, Charo Bogarín, is singing and investigating folklore argentinian music and more specifically, indigenous music. She is coming from an indigenous family and there are a lot of songs she sings in Guaraní (indigenous language). This one, here, is called Indio Toba. Toba being an indigenous group that was widely persecuted by the formal Argentinian state, which resulted in them leaving their ancestral land. Enjoy!
Speaking of Argentinian music one cannot avoid Rock! Specially selected for you because I know your spanish is not so good. The lyrics are mostly in English.. Sumo influenced a lot the rock scene in Argentina and it worth checking it out.
As for… tango, a live performance above, in 04:57.
Leaving from South America
Weeks 80 – 90 | Chile [B]
The second part of an unforgettable Journey in Chile. My time in Santiago and the 5th crossing of the Andes mountain range.
My story in Santiago starts with this lovely lady here,
ZUZANNA is a good friend from Poland. We had spent time together in Spain, back in 2013, and now we met again in Chile. ZUZA talked about me to her other half in Santiago, ANNA (pun intended), who was also in Spain with us but I had never met her, and ANNA (from Sweden) arranged with her flatmates to host me for a week at their appartment in the city center. The flat had a nickname:
Truly a paradise as you can see and right at the right time because… I spent the holy week there, fortunate enough to attend the services and share these moments with my dearest friends from the Orthodox community of Guayaquil in Ecuador, that were at that time in Santiago.
a
Then my dear Zuza, who I owe her so much, let me know about her boyfriend Richie,
who in this photo looks a bit serious. In real life he is more like this
hahhahahaaa sorry mi amigo Richie! hahaaa! Richie is one of the persons that I meet and I have instantly a very good connection with. You know, there are some people where your vibrations sync right away. The feels-like-we-know-each-other-for-ages-but-we-met-yesterday thing. He is in my heart for many reasons but most importantly because he kept the two of us alive during the scariest 40 minutes of my life. Riding a vespa in the highway…
I invested in brushes and water colours. I still remember Richie that night at home, after the ride, singing with the guitar about me: “tenía mucho miedo pero sobreviví” = I was very scared but I survived.
j
And here Richie in the guitar, and Thomas singing.
Thomas is a friend of Richie who
and this because he and other friends of Richie hosted me at their living room for a period of… 1 and a half month!
and the sofa where I spent hours of listening and admiring Thomas this time,
Thomas had the ability to take the guitar and start playing for hours.. from reggae to hip-hop to rock to… acoustic reggaeton, in perfect english, spanish, german. I was so astounded that I recorded him at some point, and throughout my stay in santiago I was listening to him every day, again and again, during the countless hours I had walking around downtown, chilling in parks, thinking, reading, painting and writing.
but to be honest, it wasn’t only Thoma’s voice that I enjoyed so much. It was also
she had one of the sweetest voices that I had heard and it was such a pleasure listening to her.
Here we are in Tunquén. Weekend excursion that apart from
wooden house,
“pepper egg-in-a-hole”,
morning views,
music by the fire,
delicious food,
wonderful sunset,
peaceful views,
cold beers
amazing stars,
it also had a very interesting visit to the Ballenario: the place where in the past the whales were brought to be processed and exploited. It was a visit full of sadness, or maybe better, some sort of melancholy and also… admiration!
You knew that
(blue) whales are considered the biggest animal ever inhabiting the planet? One of the reasons why they live in the water is that it would be extremely hard to sustain such an amazing weight (they reach the 180 tonnes, and only their tongue weight as much as an elephant) in land – that is, without the help of buoyancy. But here comes the best part,
the captivating ultrasounds that produce to communicate (that can be heard underwater in a distance of 2.600 km!) is unknown to this day where exactly come from – what part of the whale is producing them and how; they don’t move neither the mouth nor their throat!
j
We also went for a walk by the beach,
you know that Pacific means peaceful, right? So here we are, myself and the ocean.
And since I need a way back to Santiago in my story, and we are at the sea, I ‘ll tell you that the nickname of the appartment I was hosted this time is “El barco” = the boat. Two more “passengers” are the ones that you see on the right, next to Óli and Thomas,
You see, love everywhere in Santiago! I was surrounded by couples!
The good news was…
another one resident of El Barco, that he too in this picture looks pretty serious. BUT, he can be transformed…
hahahaa!!! Nicooo! I admire this guy a lot because he was so responsible, organised, independent and at the same time he knew how to party and… (this is the important part) he was (almost) always available! Even if the following day he had to go to work. And if you are looking for some fun in Santiago de Chile, the nightlife is indeed vivid! Music, dance, piscola! The legendary bar El tunel – awesome nights of fun with Nico, Iciar Javier and Jorge (from Madrid) and many more – fun and sweating!! And the cheap amazing (if you are drunk) pizzas after… oh… Also, in Santiago there is a lot of electronic fiestas, fiestas in plazas with guitars and drums, lots of concerts, bars with live music and the typical clubs mainly at the Bellavista area.
And because we have to imitate the good exampe of our friends, I tried myself too, apart from having fun and also lots of personal time in Santiago, to do something that is productive in another level. Something that I couldn’t have done without the help of
the last (but not least!) resident of El barco. As you most probably know, while travelling I am trying to enter elementary schools to do research for my dissertation in Education. For sure I am not dedicating as much energy as I would like in this area but it’s true that the intense travelling reality is absorbing me easily. Well, the point is that Heinz offered to help me gain access in a public elementary school in Santiago, and not only did he bring me in touch, but also he helped me a lot with translating the research documents I had prepared from English to Spanish.
I had 3 days of attending all of the classes of one professor, interviewing her and the principal and taking photos. The whole experience was very intriguing as it was very different to what I had seen so far in the USA and to what I had experienced as a student in Greece. I would like to thank Sophia, mr Matus, and miss Magaly for all their help!
Now, as you can imagine my time in Santiago was amazing and for this I am wholeheartedly grateful to my friends there, and also to Zuza+Anna that we happened to be at the same time in the same city – again.
The thing is that my time in Santiago was a lot more than having fun. I spent a considerable amount of time in just… being. I would walk to the park, sit on the grass, at the same tree everyday, and take my time. Or I would walk late at night with a bottle of hot water underneath my jacket because it was cold outside, and I would record some thoughts or observe the city when nobody was there.
It was wonderful and I feel extremely privileged for having the opportunity to experience such a vacuum in time and in space. It’s certainly a luxury in such a harsh and unjust world to be able for a little bit to be absolutely careless. When there are so many suffering or living in poverty or just preoccupied with so many everyday things, I was just taking time to work on myself and reflect upon the world, the individuals, nature and the overall surrounding reality (that is seemingly abnormal, chaotic and unrelated, yet there is an omnipresent and underlying causality.) #grateful
j
What else in Santiago?
– Fun! with Zuza+Anna [terremoto drink = fermented white wine + pineapple ice-cream]
– More fun! with Zuza+Anna
– The psychotherapeutic effect of dance is proportional to how sweaty you get. sweaty hair means good progress.
– My friends at el Barco and many others that I met in Santiago were well-educated, knowledgeable and they had an idea of what’s going on around the world. I had a lot of thought-provoking discussions, and it was interesting and indeed pleasurable to see that after one year of travelling in South America and listening “oh, you are from Greece?! Platón, Sócrates!!”, someone indeed knew about Plato, Socrates, about Alexander the Great etc. Of course I am not implying that the past year I had no meaningful interactions, neither I am comparing or complaining. I am just saying I missed this kind of communication and it fit well with Chile in general. Chile maintains, for me, a very nice balance between the cultural side (the latino-american element) and the functional side (having a state that actually works) (in Greece we are still lacking this).
– Also, the point I made earlier about my friend Nicolas, I realise it holds true for all the residents of El Barco (Richie is included as a former “passenger”). It is indeed a wonderful quality having the ability to enjoy life, live intensely, seize every opportunity and at the same time be responsible and make progress in every field (be it work, studies or I don’t know). It’s hard to keep the right balance.
– As I mentioned, in Santiago I was surrounded by couples. This was very beautiful but also irritated my desire to be in a relationship, despite feeling self-sufficient and happy with being single.
– Something crazy: In one of my night walks at the Bellavista I was invited to sit with a man who had a big portable speaker playing by the street. He was asking for money from the passers-by and in exchange we has… putting songs. He had some 2-3 friends around. He was one step before being homeless, but he had a shelter and some basic hygiene standards. We sat together talking for more than 1 hour, drinking cheap wine that they had to hide every time the police was around. Then they suggested to go for a walk, to sit at a park. I was ok with the idea. Not that I trusted them but I was willing to explore how this would evolve. The guy that initially invited me, who kept repeating how cool Greeks are, at some point put his hand into my pocket and took my mobile phone. For the 5 first seconds I thought “no way…” but then he was not giving it back, pretending that he wanted to make a phone call… Of course I wouldn’t engage in a proper fight, but I wouldn’t just let my phone away like this.. I was trying to reach the phone while he had his hands extended at his back, and while he was insisting on not giving it to me I was in the right position to bite him, and so I did. Oh, I bit him for good at the chest. Got the phone back in 2 seconds and left jogging and thinking: what a hypocrite?! I would prefer an honest thief!
– Something awkward: in Santiago I read a book called On the road, by Jack Kerouac. The style of writing and the content were in perfect sync with my state at that point in time and the book affected me profoundly. The thing is how this book came into my hands. I only knew the name Kerouac, nothing more – if he was a writer or football player or astronaut I didn’t know. The name just rang a bell. And then someone at some point while travelling told me “you have to read On The Road, you ‘ll like it because it’s about travelling… it is what you do”. One month before Santiago I was listening some poems on YouTube by the Greek surrealist poet Andreas Embirikos and he mentioned the name; Kerouac, and then he had a poem dedicated exclusively to this book! AND THEN I go to Santiago, I found myself hosted at the house of the friends of the boyfriend of a friend of mine, and there it is, on top of the piano. and Thomas says “of course bro, read it!” and it is in English too! The original version, the language of Kerouac. wow!
– Something annoying: I stayed 6 weeks in El Barco. Before I left we had something like a farewell party.. Lots of persons I met during that time, came. I was so happy that I got too drunk too quickly and found myself in a bed after throwing up. dammit
– Something improbable: An awkward coincidence took place. Not only I met a Greek guy travelling – the 3rd in 1 year in South America – but he also was travelling by his bicycle!! What is the probability?! Dimitris!! We spent some time together, we met some friends of a friend of him (that were staying at the 14th floor in a small apartment which if not the first is definitely in the top 3 of the most beautiful houses I have been in my life), we talked about life, and I hope I ‘ll meet him again because we didn’t say goodbye properly.
– Something AWESOME: My time in El Barco…! Thank you guys for everything… I know it’s been a while without being in contact but I always think of you with love and gratitude..
And after Santiago?
After Santiago…. it’s crazy, but this country had more to offer. I am sure it had much more to offer than what I finally received, but certainly what I experienced in total is… just crazy. After Santiago I took a bus to go again to the city that I stopped cycling before I go to Santiago. It’s called Antofagasta.
I am looking for a cheap place to stay because I had spent a lot in Santiago. First very cheap room: I woke up at the middle of the night due to an awful smell and smoke..! the roof leaks and drops of water are falling into the power strip (πολύμπριζο) and at the tablet…! the owner of that place doesn’t give me my money back (for the night) because as he was saying “I cannot control the water of rain!” – goodness… I leave this place. Second very cheap room: I forget my watch at the shower! ohhh yes, this story oh my god now I remember, check this story:
I am in Antofagasta. After so much time in Santiago I felt guilty that I hadn’t written anything about my already 2,5 months in Chile. I said I’ ll do it now. I stay awake for some 30 hours, writing and video editing, and then I decide to take a shower to refresh myself. I finish shower and go to bed because I was very tired.. I woke up in two hours time for no obvious reason (!) and I am very upset; the first thing I do is grab my left-hand wrist with my right hand.. MY WATCH!!??!! Instantly I think about the shower I took before bed, I run to the bathroom and the watch nowhere to be found. That time at the hostel it’s me, an Argentinian man, Marcello, who is extremely friendly and a couple that I met in the morning but they left before I take the shower and they are not back. The strange thing, among others, is that I woke up RIGHT at the moment the cleaning lady was about to leave. I ask her: did you find a watch in the bathroom? and the first thing she says is “aaaah, you shouldn’t leave anything in the bathroom..” I raise my voice saying “I didn’t ask you this, I asked if you found anything..” she said “no, no, no”. I almost beg her to give me my watch back saying that we all know it was her. She leaves without wanting to further discuss. The owner comes, a very good lady at her 50s, teacher. I am telling her and she starts crying because I let her know that this watch was very important to me, and I have it since my mother was alive, 2008… She calls the cleaning lady, (it was Sunday), she calls the cleaning lady asking from her to come tomorrow and not the next weekend, that it was her next working day. She says yes but never comes up because she was “angry because I accused her” (she said over the phone, the following day).
This watch meant so much to me. This watch was more Angelos Georgopoulos than myself. Literally. And I mean it, literally. Since 2008 that I owned the watch, in terms of my personality I have changed immensely, obviously. In terms of my body, I am not the same either.. Every 7 years more or less the vast majority of our cells die, and new cells take their place. Only brain cells (except a part) and at heart (some of them), cells do not die/being replaced… This watch was more Angelos Georgopoulos than myself. Hahahaaaaa!! I lost it and I got very very sad, despite I don’t want to be attached to things.. I bought the same watch again.
The only reason for sharing this story is that for me it is a breathtaking proof that what we call consciousness is only the tip of the iceberg. I went to bed without the slightest idea that I had forgotten my watch upstairs. I woke up having the knowledge, the information, that my watch is not there, with me. This alone is crazy enough. Then, there is the awkward thing that I woke up right at the moment the cleaning lady was about to leave, and as it seems she took it. I mean someone has to take it; it didn’t disappear. Very awkward!
Thankfully I found someone from couchsurfing to host me and I left that place. I found Gabriela, who hosted me for 2 days and it was very nice because we connected straight away. Apart from watching the same YouTube channels, that nobody during the trip had no idea about these channels, we had profound talks about life and it was very beautiful! Thanks Gabi!
I left Antofagasta with the plan to enter Argentina taking the shortest route.
By no means I didn’t want to go back to Calama, and then to San Pedro and then enter Argentina from the northern pass since there was another route that was shorter. The problem was the 250 km of uphill from Antofagasta to Socaire, because this road not being the main one, there was not even a simple kiosk… no water refill.. nothing.
It was insane and also the nice part was that I found myself in a wonderful and usually very touristic area but I was at the low-season so the hostel that I stayed was just (another one!) couple,
We had wonderful time and the whole hostel for us.
I bought emergency kits for warming-up, I checked the route and I left for what it would be extremely difficult…
It took me 8 hours for 42 km… and not only this. I almost reached the end of the first great uphill and I realized that the sun is about to set… I couldn’t believe it… I was feeling like I spent 3, maximum 4 hours on the bike, but it was 8… I am at 4.400 m altitude, the sun is setting, I just stopped cycling and I am all sweaty, I start feeling that this is going to be a COLD night. Not only this…
In an attempt to pitch the tent at a little opening that had no snow, I had to pass from a snowy area that it was frozen, but not… frozen enough! I take the first step, all good, the second OK, the third finds me 20cm into the snow and now I have snow for good into my one shoe and I am trying to carry everything into the not snowy area, set the tent, change clothes… my camera is off because of the cold, same with both of the phones, my watch was stolen.. I have no idea of time… my foot gets numb BUT… I can clearly feel pain.. I feel dizzy because of the high altitude.. I am repeating to myself “stay focused, stay focused, in a bit you ‘ll be ok”. The 6 liters of water that I had been carrying have started to turn to ice.. My sleeping bag (comfort zone -7 °C) is usually very warm but now I am wearing all of my clothes too and I am still in the border line… I try to use the warming kit but there is a verb in spanish in the how-to-use that I don’t know what it means… finally after 20 minutes of shaking this sachet of a chemical thing it starts producing heat.. I manage to sleep but I wake up in 3 hours or so when the effect of this is over.. I sleep and I wake up every 20 minutes. The sun comes out… Glory be to God.. the water is a solid ice piece, the food is 100% frozen , the electronics don’t work… but I am ok! The only problem is that I have no water and there are no cars because the road is closed due to bad weather… I eat snow for some hours and then my stomach is on fire.. I put snow in an empty bottle and later in the day melts because of the stong sunlight.
That day I had less uphill but still I had to focus to finish the uphill before the sunset because it was so steep that you couldn’t camp at all.
Next day there is some traffic. It seems that they opened the road for 1-2 hours. Drivers give me water, and I eat the pieces of food that I have put in a smaller pot and let them in the sun. There is a lot of silence, the sun is very strong, and then the downhill starts and I feel sooooo good! 5th time of crossing the Andes by bike, seems I am making it! I find this
and my tent is tailor-made for this little place there that offers excellent coverage from the stroooong winds. I try to sleep but I am thinking… all of these rocks that are close to the tent… how did they end up here..? they most probably fell. I got up and out into the extreme cold in order to relocate the tent. I still have two sos-warm-up sackets… One for the feet, one for the hands. I am again at the border line of being frozen because now I am not protected by the rocks and the wind multiplies the sense of cold. I managed to sleep, but I remember thinking “oh, Angelos, man.. you should plan for the worse… if the air-mattress gets a puncture… and you find yourself directly in contact with the ground what will you do??”
Never seen my face so inflamed
onIon
I wake up happy that I am alive but clearly it was a bad night’s sleep. I ride my way to the borders and… life is beautiful!
Beautiful!
Yes, beautiful!
Ο καταπονημένος.
yiha
solmaforo κατά το semaforo που είναι στα ισπανικά το φανάρι στον δρόμο. Αυτό που φέρει το σήμα!
Inside the observatory
the most arid place on earth.
thought it was beets. nope, black potatoes
hi there!
salt
😀
this is happines in small things. Johny (truck driver) gave me salt from the salt flat
hi thereee! Uphills!
it’s a new dawn
my 2nd room in antofagasta
sad for losing my watch
bus station at Santiago
and you wondering why I had such a wonderful time in El Barco
❤
First time in my life that I cooked mousakas!
First time in my life that I cooked fasolakia!
lovely ceviche (traditional peruvian food)
❤
😃🌻
is there any
objective
reality ?
same photo, with decreased (left) and increased (right) brightness.
Don’t forget, we LITERALLY are stardust!
🌟
Weeks 78 – 79 | Chile [A]
Weather-beaten and pretty tired I headed to the borders. I had approximately 10 days in and around the Bolivian salt flats. I was over exposed to rain and sun, my eyes were not completely healed, I was eating bread and bananas for the last 3 or 4 days and the bike was in a proper mess. I had drunk all the water I had left and now I needed 5 or 6 hours to the borders. I said to myself “when you enter Chile, you will drink a beer! You deserve it!“
Από να φοβάμαι και να καρτερώ
κάλλιο περισκόπιο και τορπίλα…» (Καββαδίας, Πούσι)
Some hours later I was in Ollagüe, the first village of Chile. In the borders I asked for ATM and the guys there almost laughed.. “ATM you ‘ll find in Calama…” they told me, “…some 200 km from here!” – Damn! I had no Chilean money, I used my last SOS dollars to pay the hospital just before exiting Bolivia, and I had only a bag of 5 little breads left that a truck driver had offered to me.
Almost desperate and with no plan I started cycling through the little village alongside the rail tracks. 2 minutes later a mini market came into my field of view, and there, totally unexpectedly, I saw this little sticker on its window. Yes right, the sticker with the 4 letters that reminded me of the other 4-letter word that I had forgotten: VISA -> BEER.
Hahahah! Almost unbelievable, but utterly true. After the scarce, without fridges, and even without bread mini markets of rural Bolivia, I found a place where I could pay by card and eat properly! I was very happy and the first beer was followed by a second, and at that very second I saw the first guys in Chile that would invite me at their place. More beers and a football match and some facts about Chile, that I had no idea. Chile is the most developed country in all Latin America. Now I call it the North America of South America. This country is more advanced than Greece. The streets are in almost excellent condition, the cities are relatively clean and in general, there is something here that’s missing from all the countries I have visited for the last year: order.
The following day I woke up and I was determined to make 200 km and reach Calama. It was downhill (from 4300m to 2700m), so I was optimist.. But! I didn’t know about the wind.. From 13:00 the wind started to blow furiously and it was just heart breaking to realize that I was facing only headwinds. I was in downhill slopes and the bike was not moving an inch on its own. I had to pedal every bit and at some point I said “no more, I will lie down by the road and sleep. At 1800 I will continue”. I didn’t want to waste my energy because (again) I didn’t have a lot of water. I knew that when the sun goes down the wind goes… I don’t know, somewhere else!
To that point I had done approximately 100 km in the Atacama desert, as it is called – and it’s the driest place on planet earth. For 7 hours I had seen just one village and less than 10 cars, but I was extremely lucky once more. I lied down right by the road and after 10 minutes a car passes, a door opens and I am listening someone shouting “que taaaaaal Griegoooo” = How are you, Greek maaaaan??! One of the guys that I met the previous night in the borders was going to Calama and he offered to take me there! Hell yeah, I am coming!
That’s how I found myself in Calama.
The ugliest place of Chile, as they told me later, but for me it was Paradise transformed in a city at a high altitude, surrounded by lots of mines. People from all Chile and Latin America go to Calama to make money. One guy I was talking with told me he works at a mine. I responded that I already knew that, because I own it; it’s mine. He didn’t seem to understand my humor and continued his story: he gets a 1000 euros per month for 6 consecutive days of work and then 6 consecutive days of rest. He lives on the camp site near the mine, which means he has free bed and food so he is able to save almost 100% of his wage. And I say almost because the city, owning to the mines, had lots, and I mean loooots of prostitutes and strip-bars that were open and almost full from midday. I asked the prices to sleep with a woman (just by pure curiosity, hehe) and it was 16 euros for a quarter and 27 for an hour.
I stayed there for 3 weeks and had the time of my life. I liked it a lot because I did the things with the right order. I bought the best saddle for bicycle touring, new pedals, fixed my rack, charged my batteries. Then I wrote the post about Bolivia. And then I focused on some stuff I had written in Greek (and that was the most beautiful part).
After so much time of physical harshness and no-food-variety, I couldn’t stop eating sweets and junk food. It’s one of the contradictions of my trip that I like a lot: some days I focus on my body, some days I focus on my mind.
I spent 10 days sleeping and this was because I spent 10 nights awake. Right next to the hostel there was an unfinished building and at its terrace I would spend countless hours watching the stars, writing stuff on my phone, reciting, listening to poems online and contemplating about (my) life.
Did you know that the north of Chile is the best place in the WORLD to watch the stars? Stars stars stars stars!
The most interesting part of my time in Calama though, was right at the beginning of this writing-relaxing period (and it wasn’t actually in Calama). I uploaded the blog post and then I had an idea to go to San Pedro de Atacama (a very touristic city that was close), in order to get some inspiration and focus on writing. It’s a totally crazy story how I got to San Pedro hitch hiking, but I want to focus on something else now. I left everything in the hostel, and went to San Pedro only with my tent because it felt stupid to pay 2 hostels for 1 night. I decided to take no phones, no cameras, not even cash cards. Some money and pen and paper. Haha! I am free, I was thinking on my way there.
I reached San Pedro and I was instantly inspired. This place had something mystical and spiritual all over (apart from tourists). I walked around, got a beer and wanted to focus on writing a poem or two, because I had lots of ideas from my time in the salt flats, but I didn’t have the time back then. I went to a small park and from 2100 to 0100 I started thinking and writing and reciting, and walking here and there. At 01:00 something awkward happen.
A 64-year-old Colombian guy, 1 and a half head taller than me and plump, approached me and kind of scared me cause he came without me taking notice and his figure was simply imposing. He came and asked my name, and then my surname and my place of origin and then asked to see… my passport! I was like “man, are you a cop?” He wasn’t and to prove his word he invited me at his cousin’s house. I wasn’t sure if I was doing the right thing but I followed him just to see in what this could evolve. We got into the house and he locked the door. No cousin at home. At that moment I was a bit scared, and very cautious. He offered beer, which I accepted and stayed there talking with him for 4 hours.
After some intro stuff about our lives the tension rapidly escalated (in a good sense) because my new friend was in a confession mood and I was in a listening mode. At some point, while he was preparing a drink – I remember clearly that he wasn’t facing me – he said:
And while I was left speechless, he was keeping it coming. He told me how police found out, how he was accused for stuff that other members of the gang did, how the police came with helicopters and everything. He finished saying “almost from one day to another I was charged 37 years in prison!!!”
“Of course I wasn’t going to stay in prison for so long so I tried to escape a number of times.” He told me everything, and also lots of other stories relative to his occupation and how he used his knowledge to get stuff done in prison. He told me all sorts of horrible things about the prison and damn I was a super-excited question machine. He spent 5 years in isolation, in a purely cement room, less than 2×3, without a bed or something. There was a hole on the floor (his WC) and the food was coming without cutlery below the door. There was just a little bit of artificial light coming into this room and he had 2 hours on Sundays to do what the word implies – see the sun on the yard. 2 hours of relative -of course- freedom per week… He was very touched throughout our conversation which did last a long time.
At some point he started crying. He was describing to me that some days the food was extremely little and at times they had one chicken for 25 persons in the prison cell. At this phrase he couldn’t hold it in and tears came out of his eyes. He showed me how 25 people can sleep in 4 mattresses. He had numerous stories of how they managed to find alcohol and we were laughing a lot, or he was telling me that when he had days out of the prison he would bring fruits to everyone (fruits are generally not allowed, because they make alcoholic stuff out of them). He was also telling me that you have to be tough in prison otherwise other prisoners will exploit you hard or they will kill you.
Despite all of the above, to my eyes this person was incapable of stealing or killing or even harming someone. He was like a huge angel; a bit reddish by the rum, round face, reciting the bible all the time, and very polite. I was extremely curious to learn how he got into this in the first place. I kept asking him and at the end he confessed that all started some 40 years ago, when his nephew had cancer. They couldn’t find the money for the chemotherapy so he had no other option. He thought “nobody is gonna miss that money and if I don’t do it my sister’s son will die”. He convinced a friend and finally it was extremely easy, he told me. It was that easy that he couldn’t stop doing it. He told me so many things. I will remember him.
It was a gift of great symbolic value for me. A chain from someone who was in prison to remind me of my extreme freedom as a traveler.
I lost it and I felt horrible.
Ι got back to Calama from San Pedro with a very awkward semi-truck driver that said 4 or 5 words throughout the trip. I thanked him, nonetheless.
3 weeks flew over Calama and I felt it inside like 3 days. I started seeing “Semana Santa” in the streets and I realised the Easter is very close. I had to get a bus to go to Santiago, the capital of Chile, to celebrate the Holy Week. I tried to ride till there but the wind and the continuous uphills and downhills (despite cycling by the coast) made it impossible. I did 200 km and reached the coast in a route that I had 3 or 4 flats because my tires were completely worn off. The thing was that the salt from the salt flat had made the valve adaptor impossible to remove, so I had to cut the valve from the inside in order to got it out and change the tube.
I took a bus, and then I said “no no, I will ride to Santiago”. I got off… I tried once more. No way. Two days later, I took the bus again and after countless hours I found myself in Santiago.
“And yet it moves” – Galileo Galilei | it
beach
Weeks 72 – 77 | B o l i v i a
Left Puno and the beautiful Titikaka Lake to head to Bolivia. I stayed in Puno for 8 days being mainly focused on writing the post about Peru. I think Puno was the cheapest place I ´ve been so far in South America, liked it 😉
View of Lake Titikaka from a hill of Puno
I paid something more (5.5 €/night) in order to have my own room, hot water, and nice very big windows with street view that made the room sunny and shiny
I wanted Copacabana to be the first place I would visit in Bolivia. A beautiful, by the lake, touristic destination. But then a rain came and somehow I lost the turn to Copacabana. There were no signs and I didn’t have in mind at all I need to turn at some point. So my plans changed and the goal of the day was just one: enter Bolivia.
An awkward note. In this ride I realised that after almost 5 hours I had done no stop whatsoever. After 100.6 km I stopped to take a picture and put the second battery and I had the following thought:
It is amazing how our body works and how our body is in contact, in communication with us… In this ride I did 145 km and I consumed ONLY 350 ml of water and 3 little breads. It was flat, it was cloudy and I didn´t feel like eating or drinking, so I had no stop. I was not tired either. And I remembered my rides in the Peruvian coast or in the jungle. I was drinking 5 litres of liquids per day but I was peeing only for 5 seconds during the whole day!!! (because I was sweating) I don’t know, you may think “ok, it’s natural”, but I find it fascinating – we are machines…
I went to the borders. I was illegal for 41 days (131 in total) (wow). When I was entering Peru, I was asked at the borders “how many days do you want, 180 or 90?”. I said 90 in order to push myself not to stay for so long. Well, I stayed. 41 days = 41 us dollars. Not so many, but I tried to avoid them. I had a quarrel with the customs guys because I asked them what are my options if I am late and I don´t have money, and they didn’t mention that there is an option to deport me. Of course… they want the money. I paid after 3 hours of bureaucratic mess and spent the night in a hostel at the borders. I paid 15 bolivianos, and this was… 2 euros… I charged my batteries and next day I left to La Paz..
As I told you, I was cycling in approximately 4000 meters altitude. That’s OK for your body, but only if you are very calm. If you force yourself for something (for example, for climbing the stairs) you will have dyspnea. This holds true for cycling too, if you keep your heart pulse below a certain level you will have no issues, if you push yourself though, (something necessary if you have an uphill or if you go a bit faster) you will have the following issues:
Apart from shortness of breath, your lungs will be in light pain (this also may be caused because of the cold air), then you have stomach ache (σουβλιές), your head will feel like a raisin (σταφίδα) because of the lack of oxygen and headache at the back of your head will begin. I also had some strange sensation in my leg muscles (tingling).
I was eating some coca leaves that alleviate some of the symptoms and then I turned my electric assistance on, and I was way better. Hehe.
I met Franklin on my way to La Paz. Crazy guy from Colombia who goes to Argentina to seek a better life. He had no passport so we needed to split just before a police control. He was also travelling by bicycle. Extremely lightweight. Without sleeping bag, without tent, without cooking equipment… I asked him where do you sleep, and his answer was “wherever, I am looking for a shelter if I see rain coming, but in general, in nature”.. These are truly crazy people.
I reached La Paz. Bolivia is the poorest country of South America and this is very obvious in the roads condition which is terrible… The minimum wage in Bolivia is 1800 Bolivianos, and this is 250 euros… In countries like this sometimes we think that everything is very cheap. Well, this is not true. It depends on what do you want… For example I wanted a professional bike maintenance because I had my bicycle in a very bad condition and just for maintenance I paid 200 Bolivianos (27 euros)!! Obviously a place that only reach Bolivians go..
In La Paz I met Roy from Spain, I mean, from Galicia (part of Spain).
Now if you ask me why I wrote it like this, it is because in Nasca, Peru, I met Alicia and Eulalia from Spain, I mean, from Barcelona (part of Spain).
I was talking with A. and E. in Nasca and they were telling me that they would have no problem watching the Spanish flag being burnt.. I was like
I would be certainly offended if someone was putting the Greek flag on fire. I asked them “you are not proud of being Spanish?”, and the answer was “Of course not, look at all the murders of the conquistadores/ colonialists. We almost vanish the local culture here..” It´s true… but I didn´t expect that. Roy added another point. He told me that during the Franco dictatorship in Spain (1936-1975!!!), Franco was trying to unite lots of different regions under the umbrella of the “Spanish nation”. So lots of people in Spain they still don´t like this unity as it oppressed their local identity, which, as they say, and as I ‘ve personally experienced it for 4 months in Bilbao (“capital” of the Basque region) it’s very distinct. Examples. The Basque country in the North, Galicia, and Cataluña. What is amazing is that these 3 regions had their own language which differs significantly (or totally as is the case with Euskera, the basque language) from Spanish. This is the reason why we see so many independence movements in Spain today. Roy was also pessimist in regard to the future of Europe and the Europian Union.. He is sure it will dissolve. Let´s see…
I had a relaxing time in La Paz, doing stuff online mainly and spending some time with Roy. We went to the largest market of Bolivia, in an area called El Alto, which is the place with the highest percentage of indigenous people in all South America! Indeed, we found very few white people. The market was surprising in its variety (especially the section with the car parts – every part of a car could be found there).
Another thing I enjoyed in La Paz has to do with another change that takes place in my life and has to do with cooking. I had always in my life been very bored to cook. And when it comes to washing the dishes, I prefer to dig a 2 m hole in the ground instead. However, interestingly, during the trip I am in the mood of cooking. I had spent thousand of hours watching my friend George cooking, and all this knowledge is somewhere inside me. This combined with an intrinsic tendency to improvise and experiment results in… if not delicious, very tasty stuff! I am cooking 😀 I ‘d also like to mention here, that after lots of encounters with VEGeteriANS during the trip, my eating habits have changed dramatically. Avoiding meat where/when possible and being thoughtful of my food choices in general.
On my way out of the city of La Paz, I tackled a huge uphill. Maybe the worst of my life. For 8 km I had to climb 400 m and although the average inclination would give something like 5%, there were many parts with ridiculous steepness. I had to push. I thought twice of quitting but I didn´t. I needed almost 2 hours for the first 8 km and 11 more for the rest 197 km of that day… 205 km in total… can you imagine..
It’s part of my routine at this point.. Not the first, nor the last time I hit 200 km… However this doesn’t mean that I don’t find it equally impressive every time… two hundred thousand meters, with 30 kg of load… I ask myself every time, literally, every single time, I ask myself: How are you doing it? The answer comes almost without thinking: I just keep cycling. You just continue. The Keyword here, and in life I suppose, is perseverance.
My desire in Bolivia was to cross the famous and largest salt flat in the world. The Salar de Uyuni. I spent some time zooming in and out in Google Maps and, having in mind to reach the salar as soon as possible, I plotted my route. I feel life sometimes is like plotting your route on a map. You know where you are, you know where you want to go and you pick a direction, a series of actions, a route. However, like life, maps cannot tell you a great lot in regard to the road condition, is it uphill/downhill, are they busy roads or not, and of course, whether weather will be in favor or against. I picked the shortest route to take me to the Salar, but heck I didn’t know I am gonna spend the vast majority of my time in bombarded, isolated, village-ish dirt roads, where mini markets (for food and water) were absolutely non existent for 60+ km or where there were no signs whatsoever and there was nobody to ask. For hours. I spent almost 2 weeks on a very tight budget (no ATMs), eating mainly bread and bananas (or tomatoes, or carrots), pushing my bicycle a lot, facing daily rain, hail, muddy roads, salty terrains, extreme sunshine, cold in the absence of light, mechanical failures of all kinds, water deprivation, and taking-shower limitation.
But daemn’t, I was so paid off by the incredible, the magnificent, the surreal, the otherworldly beauty of this place: Salar de Uyuni. Its insane appeal touched my heart and triggered my thinking. You know what was crazy? The absence of the horizon (o χωρίζων)… Because I went there during the wet season, there was a lot of water. Difficult to ride at points, and annoying, but it created the effect of reflection. The land and the sky became one and you had the feeling of floating in the sky. The view was so broad that everything felt like being present and at the same time incredibly distant. You could watch many realities take place in different parts of your view-field – you could enjoy them all.. Example: at night. I had numerous very bright stars on top of me, above the tent. I had the moon, very bright too, coming out of the land, being reflected on the salty and watery surface at the East, and all around, at points, there were storms where you could see the lightnings every 20-30 seconds. All this parallel, but unparalleled, optical input – a spectacle – was being contrasted by the absolute auditory nothingness – Silence. There was no wind, no animals, no trees.. just my breath and my heartbeat.The apogee came as I put the Apodeipno on my cellphone, looking at the sky. The stars losing the battle of being-brightness as the moon was on its way to the top of its arch. Needless to say, how peaceful I felt, how all the hardship of the previous days were instantly forgotten. No no… not forgotten. On the contrary! It was reminded, it was put in its place – in juxtaposition to the amazement of the moment. All the past discomfort was related to my present which would be a present if I had put no effort. But I had put a lot. My place there was deserved, it was conquered. The sense of achievement, the subtle ever-present principle of “no pain, no gain” was intensified. But at that moment I was on the “gain” part – it felt great.
Just reach the ancient island. Fixing some stuff
above the tent
Το infinity and beyond
Hi there!
EP
OP
Now, on the “pain” part, I have to move back in time for a bit and describe 7 incidents:
When I started going uphill on my way out of La Paz, what was killing me psychology-wise was not that I was tired, that muscularly I couldn’t handle the moment. What was extremely difficult to handle was the future. The next moment. I couldn’t help but look in front of me and the view of the mountain, of the hill, of that steepness, was discouraging to the level of desperation.
For a week there was rain each and every day. Wet shoes and feet for 6 days. One afternoon I got caught in the rai when pitching the tent. In a matter of seconds I was wet, but I managed to keep the interior of my tent dry. The rain turned to fierce hail. I put my helmet on and started walking and jumping around the tent to keep myself warm. I am at 3800 m and when there is no sun, no matter what time of the year, it’s very cold. My tent is for one person and it’s very tight. I can’t get inside as I am, so wet. The rain doesn’t stop and I am contemplating hard. What should I do? Strong winds too, and I am a bit worried. This is the problem: when problems are combined. Cold and rain and wind. I need a way out of it. I take off all of my clothes and I stay nude outside the tent with heavy hail-fall, I through a towel in the tent and after a moment I get myself inside. I am shivering for 10-20 minutes and then I am getting warmer inside my amazing sleeping bad. All good.
My biggest trouble though came after the salar. I wanted so bad to enjoy the landscape while being at the salar that I didn’t wear glasses… That wasn’t a wise decision. The high altitude make the sun rays very strong and this, combined with the white terrain that reflects the sun, make the sunshine almost unbearable. I felt nothing during my presence in the salar. Nothing but a small tiredness at my eyes, which I thought was normal. In total I had done approx. 100 km in there. I get out of the salar, I do 30 km more, I pitch my tent, at 1930 I am in my sleeping bag, at 2030 I am sleeping. At 2300 I woke up with very intense pain inside my eyes. I can hardly keep them open for 15 seconds, because keeping them open make me produce a continuous flow of tears and the pain is worse as I receive more light. Even the light from the moon was painful. I have to keep my eyes closed. But even so, my eyes are full of tears from the inside. It was crazy. In a matter of 5 seconds my eyes were producing 2-3 tears each and when I was opening my eyelashes tears were running down to my air mattress.. I couldn’t believe it. I didn’t know we can produce so many tears, so fast and for so long. 8 hours I was doing more or less the same thing. Wiping my tears, trying to breathe rhythmically, and relax. I was angry and I was afraid. I remember opening my eyes to check if I can still see. My view was like being in a swimming pool for 20 hours. Everything was very white-ish. I was aftaid. I got up at 6 to pack my stuff before the sun comes out. It was pretty hard and I used my touching a lot. I went to the street and sat down keeping my head looking at the ground having my eyes closed, with sunglasses on, and my hands on top. The sun was unbearable!! 4 cars pass by in a matter of one and a half hour. I explained them without even looking at them. They were all going to the opposite direction. There was a health center close by. I was very lucky!! Unbeknownst to me, one of the 4 cars called the Municipality and a vehicle came for taking me into the health center. They ask “and what will we do with the bicycle?” – It’s a folding one, I say, and I show them the mechanism. They put everything in the car and in a matter of 10 minutes we are there. The doctor gives me anti-inflammatory pills and antibiotic drops to put in my eyes. She says the cost is 14 bolivianos, and I am like “oops, I have no money at all”. I had to be in Chile for some days now but the roads are terrible and the salar had water, it was very difficult to advance. She says ” I am sorry about that, it’s 14 bolivianos”. I have 10 dollars in case of emergency. They accept that. I spent all day and night in a room with my eyes closed. Next morning felt a lot better, but still I couldn’t ride my bike. They gave me the change in Bolivianos so I spent one more day-night in that village, in a hostel that didn’t even have shower. I didn’t care. I was significantly better next morning and I left to enter Chile.
One thing more that was a bit scary was that I got lost into the salar. The advice was, “after the island” reach the coast and follow the dirt road. Ok, seems simple. I enter the salar, and right away I saw one big island at some distance. “That’s it”, I said… Well, it wasn’t. My friends, that was an optical illusion.. It wasn’t an island, it was the top of a mountain, but at that distance only the top was seen as it is, the bottom part was reflected, in a way united with the rest of the reflection.. I couldn’t tell but as I was approaching, the parts close to the upper part of the hill were revealed, and when I got really close (after hours) I realised that all of this mass of land is connected with the rest! Daemn’t and where is the island. Well, I’d passed it 2 hours ago…. and now the land here is almost non-bicycl-able. And I have no water left – and… Now what??
Something else that took place was that because of the terrain being so harsh and in such a bad condition the bike was heavily challenged. The folding mechanism broke. Hopefully, I was going very slowly (even if I wanted, I couldn’t go fast), so I just stopped the bike and looked at my spare parts. I had bought in the States what was necessary because I knew that at some point I’ll face this issue. Honestly I am glad that it made it so far. I know hat the bike was not made for heavy loaded touring – in dirt roads! I repaired it and continued.
Another thing that didn’t go very well was that at some point my yellow jacket fell off the bike. I didn’t realise it but 2 hours later. And I know it was 2 hours because I saw my photos and in one of them that the bike was depicted, the jacket was not where I ‘d put it. I got sad because I liked it a lot, but continued my way into the Salar because I had just got in and I didn’t want to cycle for 2 hours in the opposite direction… But then again, after some time, it comes in my mind the fact that I had my pump into the jacket and I have a flat tire!!!! Oh!!! There are no gas stations within a radius of… I don’t know, days of cycling, and during the night my tire will be totally flat. (every morning I was inflating. There was a very small hole somewhere that I couldn’t trace. I patched 2 holes but still it loses air) The point is I have to go back, I have to find my jacket! I got mad. It was already 1800. The sun was on a sunset course and I was cycling like a crazy man to get out of the salar and into the road again. On my way out, right before I get into the road I saw a vehicle. I throw the bike down, and I start running full speed to them shouting desperately. I reached them and my pants where almost off. I was in panic. I explain, they let me put the bike and stuff in the car, we go back, but they go from another road (through the salar, while I had been going from the coastal road).. I am desperate. I can’t tell them, you know something, can you go from the other way… I am already obliged to them. It’s a couple of 70 years old. At some point he leaves the salar and gets into the coastal way and after less than a minute we see my jacket on the street and the pump was inside. I was so relieved and happy that I shouted really loud!! That seemed very awkward to them. They didn’t really understand that this was a sign of happiness. I gave my hand to the lady while goodbying and thanking them and I asked her name. She almost didn’t give her hand back and responding to me asking her name. She was looking at me like I am mentally unstable.
Carlos and Esmeralda, I think, were their names. All good.
On my way out of Bolivia, I chose to get out of the salar for the last part because it had rained the previous night and it was impossible to ride on the muddy parts of it. My phone gps was indicating another route through the mountains – 36 km. I said ok, I am heading that way.. Oh my God. What a wrong decision. Not only I had to go uphill but also the road was for 4×4 and at parts, I am sure even 4×4 couldn’t go. I was pushing the bike for hours… for 1 day actually…
and when I made it to the other side of the hills, instead of heading to the Chile-Bolivia borders I went to the other way!!!!!!!! Yes it’s true, I don’t know why, how, what exactly, but I did it. And I was like “yes, let’s go, you can do it, it’s all is in your mind” (I was very tired, hungry, thirsty) and I didn’t want to check the gps. I wanted to see the borders in front of me. I did 25 km or something like this, and almost two hours later, I am like, ok what’s going on, where are the borders, are you kidding me??? I am thirsty, I can’t handle this any more. I stop, I eat some bread and my last carrots, I check the gps and OHMYSWEETGOD, instead of seeing the borders in the next 1-2 km, (which was what I expected), the gps says it’s 45 km far…. I can’t believe my eyes, but it’s true…. i was going the wrong way! I am shocked, but I have no option but to turn around and go back. There was road maintenance works, so on my way back, I meet a truck driver and I am on the verge of crying for some water. He gave me his last bottle and also his snacks. His name was Felix. Some time after our separation, I see another truck driver and he is moving his hands, making a gesture, I don’t get it – he gives me two bottle of waters. Felix had told to all the truck drivers and every one was giving me one. After 1 hour I had six bottles. Hehe. In a bit, I ‘ll be in the borders. One more awesome country is past right now. My memories and this post will keep it alive in my heart.
It’s Bolivia, baby, not Oblivia.
😉
Eδώ μωρέ.. αλυκή
Shelter. The previous night almost everything got wet
That’s your bowl when you travel minimally
Trying to get stuff dried
Hee
Trying to charge this phone with this powerbank.. Well.. that’s an Odyssey
F l o w e r s of some kind.. For a month (approx) at this altitude the lack of trees were omnipresent
❤
Yihaaaa
❤
New day
Dry you nylon piece of sh*t
This would be an amazing picture if I had focused properly. There was no more of this beauty because their mother came out and saw me in the mood for photos and just with her eyes, she paused the game and brought everyone inside. yak
🙂
Without shower for … days
Weeks 16, 17 – Carolinas, Georgia, Florida
This time I would like to share with you a story of cold days and wet nights. A story with many mood ups & downs. I would also like to introduce you to some cool people I met. It is a strange story since there is not a common underlying theme (apart from the fact of rain & cold). It’s mainly my attempt to: stay dry and warm, make some new friends and ride A LOT (1126 km in 10 days) in order to reach Florida as soon as possible (since my 90 days visa in the USA seemed not enough)!
But first, a poem I wrote in Myrtle Beach. Feeling like a still body receiving a fierce wave.
And, now let’s move on to the typical… map of the days:
I left Wilmington being full of feelings of gratitude. Deeply moved I was cycling thinking how privileged I am and how cool was my experience in the elementary school. How many beautiful people I met and how warm and lovely humans can be. I needed some time of rest. Mental rest and concentration. I reached Myrtle Beach. I had never ever in my life seen so many hotels/motels next to each other. The beach of Myrtle is approximately 8 km and you can only find places to stay. Nothing else in both sides of the street! I wanted to stay 3 days there but I stayed for a week, cause I needed more time to edit my videos and… spend some time in organising what I will need in Miami, who do I need to get in contact with, etc. I didn’t want to be in a rush, like when I left Paris.
a
C h a o s !
I am expert now in video editing… We are talking hundreds of clips and decades of video hours for a clip of 15 mins..
edit, write, eat, edit, edit, coffee, eat edit sleep
One week of continuous computer-work on a mainly sleep-deprived daily schedule. I was also editing one article I had started writing since I was in Boston (on December!) but I had no time to perfect it. I was paying 28 dollars per night (which was insane for me) but I really needed my space and my time. However, the price per night for the weekend was 45$ ! I had no choice but to head again to nature.. I slept in my tent the two Saturdays that I spent in Myrtle Beach. The first was rainy and the second was… cold… very cold!
Actually, on Saturday afternoon (one day before I left Myrtle Beach), I met Sammy. He was with his bike and just a bag! He told me he has no house for the moment and he is just cycling from city to city until he finds a job somewhere… He asked me If I wanted to camp with him as I told him that I just left my ridiculously expensive motel. Of course I accepted. It was a rather peculiar encounter and the time we had together was well… intense.. We found a place to sleep into the woods, in between high trees and dense flora. We grabbed two beers and headed to the beach were Sammy cooked for me a delicious pasta with mushroom sauce. What stroke me was that Sammy was talking about Jesus a lot. He told me in whatever difficulties he has he thinks of himself as a soldier of Christ and that despite believing a lot in God he hadn’t been to Church lately.
We went to our camp spot and then I realised Sammy had no tent and no sleeping bag and no mattress… I asked him where does he sleep every night and he told me “on the ground!” -What??? (It was -3 °C that night!), if you fall on the ground tonight you will be frozen!
At that point I thought how many people had provided shelter for me and also that Sammy cooked for me and bought the beers… I was like “ok, I have a sleeping bag, a tent, a mattress.. I am more than ok, I can share something. Sharing is caring (or maybe… scaring?) no, I am just kidding, scaring not! COLD – YES! I gave him the sleeping bag and kept the other two – I wore ALL of my clothes (9 top long-sleeved layers), but…. that was the coldest cold I have ever experienced. Not in terms of intensity, in terms of…. intensity/time… I can very well describe in words these 10 hours of “sleep” but I think it’s better if the picture below tells the story.
We split with Sammy on Sunday morning. He went to the Baptist Christian church and I went for the Orthodox one. The awkward was that when we woke up and after having packed, 20m from our spot, there was a police vehicle. We were not trespassing but still it was a bit awkward to pass in front of them with our fully loaded bikes. We waited for half an hour being fallen on the ground and right at the point I was like “ok, we are leaving, the Service has started”, the police left. We reached the road and started cycling (45 seconds or so) and the police vehicle is coming back!!
a
That Sunday I couldn’t really ride. I had an awful sleep and I was feeling powerless.
I stopped cycling in the late afternoon, found a nice spot and slept for 14 hours! Next day, while I had decided to ride at night, rain started at late evening while being in a forest-like area. I found a church that had a little roof in front of the door. I didn’t pitch my tent as there was a camera just above me and also cause I thought (why?) it’s not gonna rain that bad… Result? In the middle of the night I woke up because of rain.. heavy rain.. (03:43 in the video below) Water everywhere.. I was so pissed off… I took 3 big black plastic bags, and put one in the bottom, one in the middle (vertically) and one on top. I opened a hole to breathe…
2 days later I was in Brunswick. I couldn’t find a place to camp until an unfinished block of flats looked promising. Just at the right time to dry all my clothes and sleep without a tent and relatively safe. I was happy.
9 hours difference
Let them dry
Pork, bread, nuts and Giannaras – haha
Such a nice place, honestly. I felt like that was my home.
After 4 nights of camping I was hosted by Majd in Jacksonville. Needless to say I had wonderful time. With Majd we share the same faith (he is Orthodox Christian too). We had beautiful conversations in all subject matters, we ate a ton of sushi because we are xontroi (fat in Greek 😀 ) and went around the city. What was most beautiful though was the spiritual time we had together.. It was a boost for me 😀 شكرا أخي ! (Majd comes from Palestine)
Well, this is a reflection!
s u s h i !
Maaaaaajd!
After Jacksonville I slept in St. Augustine. Not very far from J. since it was Sunday and I don’t want to ride a lot on Sundays. This little town is considered to be the oldest city in the USA. Or, to put it more politically correct, “the oldest continuously occupied European-established settlement within the borders of the contiguous United States (1565)” (wiki) (hahaha). In St. Augustine I visited the St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine, an institution dedicated to the first colony of Greek people who came to America in 1768. I was deeply touched by the beauty of the St. Photios chapel.
Beautiful… (St. Augustine, Florida)
…!
The following night found me in a place called Mims… I was desperately looking for a place with a roof to spend the night as the weather forecast was predicting rain. I got into a… what exactly was that I am not sure.. In a completely non-residential area, I found a “resort”/development (?) that had an entrance and an exit and something like 50 houses, the one next to the other, relatively cheap constructions. I found a tent under which I wanted to sleep. The bad thing was my tent is orange and it was way too flashy to pitch it before sunset. I Just had my sleeping bag out, got in, close it to the top. Where is the opening for my face, I put a small and breathable towel. This because there were millions of mosquitos around!!! The thing was that the night wasn’t that cold… and in one hour I was literally completely wet! After that, I set my tent and slept very nicely..
After entering Florida, I met a touring cyclist named Mike. It was such a fortunate incident that we met. Not only because we had a great time and I got to know how it is to ride with some company, but also because the next couple of days were very windy and a lot rainy.. And yes, rain is not always an issue, but tailwind certainly is…!
Enjoy!
A
A
Folding bike baby!
tired to happy too happy to be tired
What a wonderful place – Cocoa Beach!
Check the beak!
2 Things I found intriguing here. The first is how the ancient Greek classic symbol is merged with the local characteristic (the palm trees). The second is that one building had served for so many different churches….
Well, that’s me
Hehe
I had to think very hard and improvise in order to keep my tent like this. The thing is that the edges of the tent are kept up by poles that go into the ground. But what happens when the ground is cement?
How beautiful?? St. George, Jacksonvlille, Florida
Well, this is what a 130km average ride cycling tourist has to eat to feel ok… hehe
Check how non-balanced the rack is!
Dedicated to my beloved cousin… Γιουλάκι, καλή δύναμη! Τελική ευθεία!
………………………………………………………………………….
Tired! So, tired!
Hehe! Cereals and bananas.. That’s the thing when it’s rainy. You need a place to put, water food etc, in order to be easily accessible.
Savannah.. Espresso after the ride. trees. Priceless
🙂
🙂
🙂
Give me some proteiiiiiin!!! 10 $ McDonald’s chicken…
The Spot. 14 hours sleep.
When it’s rainy for many days in a row you have to dry your clothes somehow
c o l d
Hehe – Adalooooo
Imprivising to get the right shot!
Well, not sure what exactly the label means..
No spoon… no problem
From a can, for 7 days. Yes, you can
Sun tanned
hehe
Dude. 😉
NoT
Weeks 14, 15 – Virginia, North Carolina
Tuesday, February 9th, 2016
How can it be that good? Honestly. I am thinking what to write about and I bring in mind all these last days in Wilmington and then I read my last post about my days in Richmond and….. honestly, how can it be that good? Earlier today I caught myself trying to stop myself from laughing alone. It may sound silly/giggly, but while sitting here and recollecting my recent days, I started smiling and then laughing – I can feel my whole body exude happiness. And I say to myself “Hey, stop! Focus a little bit on what you are having now in front of you and start organising your future – time flies!” – “yes, yes, ok, of course, I have to sit down and write about this so very unexpected and goodness-me-so-amasing last week and, also, about the previous week!”
[But, before I move on, give me some time here to attempt answering the question twice set above. Firstly, I ‘d like to say: well, yes, it can be that good – this is not a dream or something supernatural. This is my reality for now. A trip around the world sounds really special and amasing and…WoW – well, it is! Why am I saying this? Because…… I built this reality! I dreamed, and thought, and planned, and acted, and tried and re-tried and left and rode and flew and rode again and now here I am, 105 days on the road. It’s real, it’s happening. Even if my trip was terminated now for some reason I would be satisfied. I would be full. This is a huge thing for me to say – myself I always want more. But I really mean it. I AM NOT SAYING THIS TO PRIDE MYSELF – I AM SAYING THIS BECAUSE I REALLY WANT TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION. HOW CAN IT BE THAT GOOD – I DIDN’T KNOW IT COULD BE THAT GOOD – I DIDN’T KNOW THERE EXISTS SO GOOD A “SITUATION” – I WRITE THESE LINES IN ORDER TO POINT NOT TO ME; BUT TO THE POTENTIAL, TO THE POSSIBILITY, TO THE POWER OF CONSTRUCTING OUR CONTEXTS – TO THE BEAUTY OF PLACING OURSELVES IN THE WORLD WE BUILT FOR OURSELVES.. (Let me clarify though that I have some really bad moments of fear, extreme inconvenience, boredom, exhaustion, annoying uncertainty. However, my mood, my attitude, the way I feel in general is making me very patient at every moment of discomfort). YES!]
I left Richmond the cold Monday of the 25th of January. I was planning to follow a bike lane/trail and reach Williamsburg.. But there was so much snow at the trail that I couldn’t really tell where the trail is. I had also some difficulty in getting out of the city because of the ice…. I fell twICE (haha) and I thought that if the road condition will be like this for the rest of the trip, I can’t really leave today. But, the road got better and I got happier. I reached W. and found myself in an astonishing house, located in a resort. Felt like being in a museum – paintings everywhere and you could tell by every little detail, that was a classy house! I was hosted there by Roy – a really welcoming, smiley, kind, open, friendly and really knowledgeable lawyer. He cooked for me a delicious dinner and I very much enjoyed his historical descriptions (names, places, battles, everything!) and … and you know what, next morning I was a bit late and he had to go to work and he just told me “just make sure you close the door, when leaving”. Can you imagine? He had this amasing house and he only knew me for 10 hours. Well, this is what I call hospitality and generosity and trust.
I left Williamsburg on Tuesday the 26th in order to go to Norfolk. All my previous days were so packed I was feeling I had to stop for a little bit and write down. Pause and reflect. I had my good chance in Norfolk. I went to the place where I would be hosted but there was nobody there. It was 21:00, I was very tired and for a moment I was like: oops.. now,what? I looked for the city center, searched for free wi-fi, searched for 24h McDonald’s. The plan was to spend my night there and do all my on-line stuff and prepare my blog-post etc. I found 24h McDonalds but “sorry sir, our wi-fi is not working today!” – Urgh. I found Taco-Bell but “sorry sir, our wi-fi is not working today!” – Oh my God, is this possible?? I finally found a 24 hr cafe called IHOP (International House Of Pancakes)…
How I got there??
I spent 13 hours there (from 23:00 to 12:00)! I had 12 cups of coffee and I also ordered “All you can eat pancakes” BUT they stopped serving me after 6 hours there! (Urgh!) I was trying to put in order my internet life there, but, most importantly, I had a very serious phone-call…
[As you know (?) one of the goals of this trip is to visit schools for my dissertation in education. In order for me not to send e-mails in schools I know nothing about, I was trying to enter schools through the Global Network of Schools that is coordinated by UNESCO. (Yes, this “E” right there stands for Education – I didn’t know it either). After 4 months of writing letters, sending e-mails, making phone-calls and being in contact with the Hellenic UNESCO Committee, finally I got an answer that the schools that I wanted to visit are very busy and it would not be able for me to carry out my research there 😦 ]
So, right there, in Norfolk’s IHOP, in-between the 9th and the 10th cup of coffee, with my notebook-diary in front of me and a very rude server that refused to bring me my 3rd round of pain-killer pancakes, this dream of mine in regard to visiting schools around the world, started to fade away. And this because I had no time to send e-mails to unknown schools and tell them that “I am at your city now, can I visit your school”. I really had to go at least to 1 school in the USA in order to set the basis for a comparative research that is kind of all-inclusive (USA, Latin America, Africa, China, Russia, Europe). So, I was very sad and upset, as I couldn’t also find the time and the place to do all the preparation necessary to send e-mails in schools. I was about to enter North Carolina’s Outer Banks, be there for 5 days, camp and be alone for a bit in the wilderness (I had no camping yet in the USA).
But then again, while being very sad and disappointed, I did what always makes me feel better. I delved into my thing-self. (Your what?) Yes, it sounds awkward. By “thing-self” I mean all the tangible manifestations of my personality that are to be found in expressions of mine (in the form of notes, photos, poems, collages, drawings, plans etc.). I checked my notebook, I checked my electronic diary, I even checked my Facebook Profile and Page. And I saw myself’s submitted expressions of compact meaning. Right there, conscious and careful arrangement of things in a picture. Meticulous picking of words in a poem that is not a Poem, but a beautiful and meaningful (to me at least) and compact array of words. Stimuli that relate to memories that relate to songs that relate to people. All combined. And right there, in this spatio-temporal and bit artistic expansion of myself I said “Woohoo man! That’s interesting, that’s beautiful, that’s… you! I exist!”
cogito ergo sum – creo ergo sum
(I think, therefore I am – I create, therefore I am)
So, in looking at my notebook I also saw all this preparation I had done for this trip and all this effort I put into this, and I saw “Nορφολκ” (Norfolk) in a page I wrote 8 months ago, and I said “well… visiting schools is a part of it. You do your best from now on and when you get out of the Outer Banks, find a place, concentrate and send some e-mails to schools – you never know”. Before though I got to open my notebook, amid panic and sadness, I called my friend George. When things turn shitty he is my first line of defense (even when I can’t reach him – I am trying to think as he would do – I carry him) 😀
So, that was my time in IHOP, the last Tuesday of January. I was waiting for the rain to stop and I hit the road sleepless, moving to Outer Banks (OBX) – I had no idea where I would stop that day, where I would sleep that night.
(At IHOP I had some time to investigate online the wildlife of North Carolina, as I would be camping for the following 5 days at least. I saw that there were black bears there and I was a bit scared. I thought, though, that I will be sleeping in residential areas… I didn’t know what I had in front of me…)
I headed South and East until I reached the Atlantic Coast. From that point I would be riding only South, in parallel with the seashore. All good until that point. However, I didn’t really know what the landscape looks like in OBX and I also had another issue. A krak in the rack! On my way to the Atlantic Coast, an awkward sound from the rack hit my attention. I look there and… I kind of fixed that and moved on. At some point, before the sun set, I am in front of this:
😦
My eyes scanned this label in milliseconds to see if there is a bear there!
Daemn’t! This was my only way to ride the OBX! I want to go this way! Urgh. I was very annoyed and I had an inner battle – what should I do? After taking some time I thought that “I am in a foreign country, in an unknown context/environment, where laws are enforced – I should obey and go back”. So, I just left! I started going back really disappointed. After a bit there was the wildlife refugee station – I thought I should ask – nobody there – It was closed. I saw 2 cars in the parking lot and went to ask for some advice. The first one told me “yeah, it’s closed now because it’s the birds’ mating season. It’s better not to go” The other one told me “yeah, it’s closed now, but it’s only 10 miles, make a quick and you ‘ll cross it in less than an hour. Since there’s nobody here, nobody will check and punish you. There are bears in the wider area, but they sleep at this time of they year, don’t they?” As you can imagine, I followed the 2nd one. I went in thinking: “I ‘ll be fast and I’ll be at the other side in less than an hour” – (in retrospect, how silly was that decision!)) I was going fast in the unpaved road, having forgotten about my broken rack. After 1-2 kms… KRAK!, my rack broke at another point too and now it’s…well, useless! I am at a wildlife refugee, in an area I shouldn’t be, where bears may be around, and the sun is about to set! OOPS! I put all my stuff in my shoulders and walked my way out thinking about where I will spend the night? and what about the bears? Pffff…..
My frustration went away in a matter of 5 minutes, as I reached the station…
But.. let’s take it from Norfolk…
So… I woke up at 05:45 am at a camping spot I shouldn’t really be, I pack my stuff and head to the ferry. It was a 2 and a half hour trip so I had time to prepare myself for the following journey. I didn’t know where I will stop or sleep. The plan was to reach Jacksonville (135 km) and maybe a bit more, then wake up on Sunday morning, ride the rest and go to Church in Wilmington. But it was already 10:00 am…
I had severe saddle sores so I was wearing 3 padded shorts in order to be able to ride. That was an epic journey!
I reached Wilmington at 2130 – exhausted as I were, I hit the city center and… guess what, I looked for a free wi-fi in order to find a place to camp. So there I am, on a Saturday night at a very central point (full of bars), with well-dressed people all around me. Myself is looking more like a homo sapiens on a fully loaded bike, rather than someone who is looking for the best bar in town to listen to an awesome live music show and enjoy some cheap beers. Well…. I was both!!!
A man (Josh?) approaches me with his bike: “you need help? directions?” – “actually I am looking for a place to camp” – “follow me!” – “yes, sir!”. We are in front of Scrap Iron Art Gallery, Wilmington Downtown. Josh introduced me to Murphy and Murphy introduced me to Brandon (the owner of SIAG). I was to camp at his backyard but after the live music show I fell asleep at the sofa and he let me sleep at his bar without him being there! He asked me “can I trust you?” – I assured him and he said… “just make sure you close the door, when leaving” – again, the same! What a country?! What a people?!
I woke up next morning, Sunday the 31st of January of 2016. I could hardly sit on the saddle, honestly. I found the church (St. Nicholas). I enjoyed the Service a lot and the sermon. Right upon the end of the Liturgy ms Stacey (Anastacia) approached me and started talking to me – being interested on who I am, what am I doing, etc… We started talking and it was such a pleasant surprise. She was the wife of Deacon Thomas, and they invited me at their place for lunch… Well… they hosted me for 3 nights!!! I am so grateful to them. Not only for the provision of food, shower, a place to sleep, but also for their lovely company, their wonderful family. I felt like a family member, really. We had a lot of discussions on spiritual issues and I was so interested to hear about their journey until they found the orthodox faith. It was such a boost for me…. You see, people who are spiritual wanderers and finally they find their “port” have a lot to teach to us. Things like being consciously and voluntary a member of Church, like being grateful for inheriting the faith of your forefathers, like being a soul that seeks God everyday. Thank you!
On Sunday, when leaving Church with Deacon Thomas, we saw mr. Alexandros. He approached us and was very interesting in who I am and how come and I am in Wilmington etc… Next day, Monday the 1st of the 2nd, I went to Starbucks in order to organise myself and send e-mails to schools… Mr Alexandros had called Deacon Thomas in order to learn where I was.. so he came and found me at Starbucks!!! We discussed a bit on my trip and I expressed him my disappointment about UNESCO schools. His wife, professor at the University in Education, may could help. She came at Starbucks to meet me and at the same night we had a dinner at Giorgio’s restaurant, along with mr Nick and Ms Nena and Mr Yannis and Mr Alexandros and Ms Eleni! Apart from enjoying their company so much I loved getting an insight of what it means to come from Greece in America looking for a better life, or what it is to be a Greek born and raised in America. It was such an enriching experience for me.
But, back on track, at this dinner I let the company know about UNESCO schools and about my dissertation project and Ms. Nena said that it may be very possible to visit a local private school. She asked for CV, documents, etc., I turn on my tablet and in a matter of minutes I send the e-mail with all the documents necessary. They print it there and on Tuesday morning (the nexrt day!) at 0930, I get an e-mail that I can visit the school at 1230!! Hoorraayyy!! Amasing?
I spent 3 days there, observing class lessons and interviewing one teacher and I was… fascinated. I can’t reveal anything else as research matters are a bit sensitive. I ‘d like to let you all know, though, that I gave a presentation to the kids of the school, showing them some pictures and demonstrating the bike. IT WAS FANTASTIC! Thank you all at the school for this warm and wellcoming hug of yours!!!
Finally, I ‘d like to let you know that I am deeply grateful to Mr. Yannis Kartsikaris, from Edessa! What a man?! Generous, helpful, warm, friendly. Without him my short time in Wilmington would be a lot harder!!! He hosted me at his place, he showed me all around Wilmington, he introduced me to his kind and very interesting friends, and he was always taking me from place to place with his car. (You know… it’s not the best to go to a school for research being sweaty…). 😀 😀 😀
I got into some details here only to draw the picture better…to make clear how… one thing leads to another… how sometimes making no plans is better.. but most importantly how people can be very polite and warm and showing love. Love! So many lovely people out there!
During these days I learned that no matter what’s going on, how hard it is… you should just “keep walking”…. “just do it” and things will get better. I always say this to myself in difficult times. “it’s just a matter of time Angelos, nothing is infinite. It will be over”HA!
As a goodbye, a realisation I had when cycling on the sand, upon entering North Carolina.
Riding on the sand like the one you see above was sometimes difficult and sometimes very very difficult! But there was no obvious reason why this difference. I mean the sand was looking exactly the same at every moment. The point is that when I was looking back at different times I could see my trail when it was very difficult to ride, but there was no trail when it was easier. The conclusion is. It is hard to leave your mark, but it’s worth trying!
Lots of fun riding in snow and ice
Greece is everywhere
Absolute calmness
🙂
Historic Williamsburg
Thank you so much Roy!
!
Beautiful
Whaaaaaaaaaat???
Norfolk
On my way to…
the Atlantic Ocean…
Serendipity! https://awesomeride.cc/wingardium_leviosa/
My eyes scanned this label in milliseconds to see if there is a bear there!
🙂
😦
😀
:-O
😉
My front bag. A good chance for some things to get dried
Trying to repair the rack 1
Trying to repair the rack 2
Next morning… Off we go!
Terrified!
Looks like Africa, huh?
Difficult to impossible riding on the sand..
But the whole place was really cool!
There were drops of rain..
A true Carolinian! One leg in South Carolina, One leg in North Carolina – hahaha!
NC-12 Highway – haha!
It was nice for a bit to be off the asphalt
..
!
Yes!
Dream it, build it, live it, love it!
Ροδάνθη!!! 😀 Τη διεύθυνση στείλε μου ντε!
Haha, imagine the owner of this house not to own the land below the house…. Just the 4 squares
Shelter in a “to-rent” house, on a rainy night
Truly American
Kitty Hawk, North Carolina. Here, the Wright Brothers, in 1903 achieved the very first airplane flight
😀
Bam! the rack is off again. And I have no zip ties as I used all of them yesterday. In a matter of seconds the Sheriff stops in front of me asking me if I want something.. He provides me with zip-ties 😀
Hi there!
Beautiful!
I wanna thank this house from the bottom of my heart cause it was the first interesting thing to capture with my camera after I left the ferry…. But… I had forgotten the battery of my camera in the ferry!!!!
!
Happy and calm
Thank yoU!
@ Starbucks!
Thanks mr. Yannis and ms. Olympia. First Greek Coffee in months!
Wilmington!
Preparing myself for the school visit!
Folding bike my friends! Ready for the presentation at the school! Mr Yannis 😀
Weeks 11, 12, 13 – New York, Pennsylvania, Washington D.C
Τhis is Monday, the 18th of January, 2016
Washington DC – 14:32
I am writing from a Barnes & Nobles / Starbucks – bookstore / cafe right now. If we consider myself and my equipment (all the stuff I carry in this trip) as one, I am so spatially e x p a n d e d at the moment. I am sitting at a very certain seat here so I can look on my left, outside the store, for my unlocked bike, and on my right, 10 m away, for my phone which is charging at the tablets’ exhibition space. All my stuff is at the Hostel, but I can’t really go there right now as I have checked out and I just have my bags there temporarily. Why? Because I would have been going to a couchsurfing host for today and tomorrow, but she cancelled. (However, she told me she is asking a friend of hers if he is available, so I am waiting for an answer now). Not sure where I ‘ll sleep tonight.
Maybe I should be worried, but I am not. If I can’t find a place to sleep I ‘ll stay at the hostel for 2 more nights. I can afford that. [Yesterday I was walking in Georgetown (Downtown Washington) and I could see people sleeping outside… Can you imagine? At -7 °C !! Well, I definitely can handle uncertainty as to where I ‘ll sleep tonight]. I am staying for a bit more here in Washington DC as I need to get some rest.. I had a very intense pain on my right knee and on my left high instep the other day arriving from Baltimore.. That night, at bed, before I close my eyes I was kind of terrified. What if… my knee gets worse.. What if this pain is recurring.. What if.. I can’t continue… Brrrrr…
Thank God, it feels better – I guess because of the rest. I like a lot this phrase of Einstein: “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, but expecting different results”. Not being insane myself I went and fixed the way I sit on the bike.. I had no other issues previously, but I really felt I had to change something on the way I ride… I had an appointment for a special bike fit session at The Bike Rack DC, that normally costed 125 $ – they charged me nothing and I am very much thankful about it. I also cancelled my flight from Miami to Bogota. It was on the 11th of February. No need to rush, really. I checked the weather in Latin America and Africa if I go there later and it seems ok.. I am also looking at travel insurances.. It is very expensive (1250$ for 12 months and global coverage), but this is the wise thing to do right now. My body takes me to the next city and I have to respect it.
Despite facing the aforementioned difficulties I can say I very much enjoy the USA. Ι am now close friends with the idea that I am not a tourist and that sightseeing is low in my to-do list. I don’t even like the idea of being a tourist, actually – tourists tend to consume sight-seeings, landmarks, museums. They seem to care more for taking pictures there rather than learning how-what-why and all the specifics. It’s not that I have a… touristic complex, no. Myself is this type of sightseeing-consumer sometimes. But now my priority is to meet people, spend some time with them, go out, talk on politics, on relationships, on the way of life is here, and this kind of things.
Ah! I finally bought a camera – it’s a used Nikon Coolpix A, with 4 buttons that do not work. But I hope it will take good pictures – haven’t really tried it yet. I tried hard to open and service my old one, but in vain.
New York City was fascinating… was… amazing. I planned to stay way less, but finally I spent 13 days there. Although I was kind of negatively predisposed, as New York may be considered the very center of capitalism (and capitalism is not my best friend), I super-enjoyed my time there. I can’t believe I didn’t actually go to the Liberty Statue or the Museum of Modern Arts or… but.. honestly I don’t care. It wasn’t that important for me to go there. What was of greater importance was to feel the city, feel the vibes, meet new people, discuss and have fun. All done. I can’t describe how happy and full I feel for spending time with my cousins there, Christina and Panos -and specially Panos, as I was living at his place. We had our walks, we had our nights out (not so successfully – hehe). I had greek souvlaki in Astoria, I played football with Panos, I met his friends, he showed me all the cool places around to eat.. from pastrami sandwich to chicken n waffle, to frozen yogurt or ice cream with salted caramel, to Shake Shack burgers… I had a glimpse of what his life looks like and I really really enjoyed that – sorry, no details on this 🙂 . I had a lot of walks around the city and even more rides, actually. It was very convenient to navigate in this city, as it is a grid – streets have numbers and not names. Descartes would approve 😉
From multiple conversations with locals I got the idea that money and status do matter in New York City. When you meet someone, some of the first questions usually are where do you live and what’s your job. Or, you meet someone and you feel that he/she is trying to see how he/she can get advantage of you. This may very well not be the norm. But it is certainly there. I have to also let you know that Americans (or at least the ones I meet) are very straightforward. Some days ago, I was told in the Post Office in NY “look young man, I am very very tired and I am not gonna answer same questions twice.. you want this package shipped, yes or no”… Which was ok.. I like honesty. (although it is rumored that people from NYC are rude)
I also have to mention one night out I had…. I went alone to a couchsurfing meetup event.. I met a Lithuanian and a Chinese guys who were currently living in the city. We went later to a Bulgarian bar that was… amazing.. It was just a room actually, not very big.. And you could see so many people from all over the world.. I was sitting at a corner and smiling as I was observing this multicultural atmosphere and as Vilus (from Lithuania) was buying me drinks.. (Thanks man!) You could see people from Asia, African-americans, Latinos, Americans, people from Europe… all dancing… every one in his/her own way… Unconditionally, unconventionally, free.. It was unique… (I am not sure how I made it home, I certainly know though I had a burger on my way back).
On Tuesday the 12th I left New York City to reach Philadelphia.. I had to take the ferry and then ride for 162 km..
I was hosted by Maggie in Philly for 2 nights and I’d like to wholeheartedly thank her for… waiting for me (as I was almost 2 hours late), for making for me a list with things to do and see and…eat!, and for having such a great time, actually.. We put some music we both like, we chat and sung a little bit… she has an amazing voice! We had some beautiful conversations but something I kept was what M. told me about the average American. He/she may not be so interested on, not the President of the U.S.A in himself, but this level of Politics (congress decisions etc.), as he/she is more interested in the local politics, what the state does.
Yummeeee..!
What to choose??
Philadelphian cannoli – oh!
Don’t remember the name, but I enjoyed (the price and) the avocado in there!
On Thursday the 14th of January I left Philadelphia to ride a good 192 km to reach Baltimore.. Well I didn’t actually did 192, but 172, cause I risked a little bit, and as a result I had troubles with the police…
The only unfortunate with my stay in Baltimore was that it was so short… I am grateful to Christine for hosting… I really much enjoyed going out for dinner with her friends.. I had this amazing crab patty (that I really ignored its existence, I thought it was only in Spongebob squarepants – hehe) and also it was very interesting talking with different people on what they do, if they enjoy what they do, what’s their view on politics (there was a political debate that night)… Christine was so kind to make breakfast for me and, also to take a neat picture of me ready to go.
On Friday the 15th I left Baltimore to go to Washington DC. It was only 70 km and I thought it would be really nice and smooth… Well… not… I had a very strong pain in my right knee, so that I couldn’t really move my leg in a circular way. I was practically pedaling only with my left leg.. and this resulted in strong pain on my left high instep.. So, I took my time here in DC, in order to get some rest… The fun thing is I met in the hostel Antoine, from France and Alberto from Italy (they didn’t know each other) – we went in Georgetown for a drink (that was actually a burger, as I had forgotten my Identity). These guys have already been travelling in the USA for a month or so, and we had a nice conversation on American culture, on European Politics, on refuges, on Muslims.. So very interesting and fulfilling. The view of Alberto was that he could live in the USA as everything is in order and if you work hard you can certainly make money.. Which is indeed true.. But that was a long talk..
* I meet a lot of people and this is so very much interesting as I can spot some things that are in common in people’s thought. In the American lifestyle, along with the social media wave comes the dating app fashion (Tinder, Hinge, Coffee meets Bagel, Hitch, Match, Badoo, etc.). I don’t want to be deterministic or dogmatic here, but I want to make clear I don’t like these apps myself. As one of the persons I discussed about it put it: we forget how we do it (meeting and flirting) in real life as just by holding your phone, you don’t take any risks. I was also told by people that “I don’t like it, but I do it”.
** I mean, my sense of self-space while on the trip is not only about myself. I feel I occupy more space as I kind of expand to encompass my “materiality”. I have to constantly know where all my stuff is. I change places very often and I have to be very aware of my belongings. I ‘ve already lost two bag rain covers, my helmet rain cover, my lighter, and… who knows what else?
23rd of January of 2016, Saturday:
I am in the seventh heaven of happiness. I am now writing being seated on the sofa of the first floor of an egalitarian, anarchist, income-sharing community in Richmond Virginia. Complicated? Well… a great team of lovely people focused on living and working collaboratively under the same roof. I am so happy I ‘ll spend my days with them – So far, amazed by their DIY projects (e.g. bike-powered washing machine!) and their participation in the http://foodnotbombs.net/ (we ‘ll cook food tomorrow for people in need). I am having some very thought-provoking conversations here on all the adjectives above (egalitarian= non-hierarchical -> can be functional?, anarchy -> is it realistic?, income-sharing -> why??), but I ‘d like to stress 2 issues here that struck me the most.
1) It is something Emmett told me… that he actually, by being here he… saves time… Time to spend on things that are really important – on personal growth. On meaningful interaction, on reading/learning, on creatively producing, on building his context of living on a more ecological and sustainable basis. Gaining time for what is more important…… Sounds so simple, but is so unconventional. Gaining time instead of…… well, working like crazy all day…. for who and for what? Intriguing, to say the least.
2) I ‘d like, also, to emphasize an aspect of the “income-sharing” part. And by income-sharing we mean that whatever income a member of the community produces goes to the community. Not a part, all of it. What I liked on this is its self-regulatory power. A system-of-living like this would make myself more conscious on what I spend and how much. E.g. I love chocolates and candies, right. If I wanted to spend 50$/month on sweets, this would be too much for the common-sensical way of distributing money. Same pot would force me not to exaggerate on things. Collective here can be a self-correction tool. Cool?
Oh……. I forgot! Yesterday! Yesterday was an amazing day, honestly.
I woke up in Fredericksburg in a beautiful, comfortable, well-decorated house with lovely people, Beth and Terry, who have a place in my heart now. [I was hosted there for 2 nights and I had a really great time. Apart from the super-tasty dinners and breakfasts, I had enjoyed a lot our conversations! I learned about American History (and in particular, Civil War) and also about the american health care system and more. I also enjoyed a lot our conversation and B&T’s input on personal matters. It is really fantastic how comfortable and close you can be in a matter of hours with some people. With some wonderful, warm, open, friendly people.. Beth & Terry thank you!]
So I woke up at Fredericksburg and I had a rich breakfast (Omelette, cheese, mustard toast and pineapple on the side, coffee cake and espresso – yummee!). And then I had a very beautiful ride in the countryside, with next-to-no traffic, traditional american houses and I also saw 2 deers! I was going as fast as possible cause I wanted to reach Richmond before the snow storm arrives – but the storm came earlier… I was seriously afraid that it’s gonna be very bad and everything will be paralysed in 10 minutes. So I tried hard and I rode in the snow for 2 hours. It was a lot fun and a bit dangerous and I fell once because I couldn’t tell where the road ends. But after a while it was so good because I knew I was close to my destination… even the cars couldn’t move, and there I was, going slowly and smiley..! How cool!
So I get to this super-duper amasing place where I am now. I put my stuff in place, and later we all went to some friends (driving the jeep in the snow – slow and fun!). We ate, drunk, and went outside to slide in the snowy slopes of a park.. (I had none of this cause I was SO full). BUT, WHAT A DAY?!
It’s kind of…. awesome.
I go to bed and I think of my days… today and yesterday and what I am doing, who I meet, how I feel. I am so lucky*. I am close to tears on the micro-realization of how cool is my time now. And then I go to a macro-realization of where I ‘ve been so far and where I am going to be and I am ready to explode, honestly. My inner voice goes like this “gkigthwaefofna – you have work to do when you go back” – meaning, you are the receiver of so much love and you are having so much great experiences. When you go back to Athens you have a mission. To do something that expands. Something that reaches the many. Something beneficial for many. Something that shares the love back.
*Luck is God’s nickname to me.
Yeah!
Pretty much, all of my stuff..
Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Cathedral – Theofaneia! (why UPS? -why?)
NYC
I was riding in Astoria, and at some point I saw this, and I was like… Whaaaaat???
Hm….
Tried hard, but… nope.. (Action cam is there so I could remember to put everything back in place)
Chicken n waffle with maple syrup
Wendy’s 4p44$ (four pieces for four dollars) – Such a deal!
Say whaaaaaaaaat??
Hmmmm.. shake shack!
Devoted to my Granma Adamantia. Monet! (I think you have a copy of this outside your kitchen, right?)
Yeap
Modigliani…
I love this picture!
Van
I liked this painting a lot..
Neooooo!
NYC
Yeap
Bye bye!
It was still fully functional..
!
Italian Market in Philadelphia – Di Bruno Bros.
!
Like a work of art, isn’t it?
Wise words on the pavement
…
This. For 5 hours.
Hmmmm! Crab patty! Thanks Christine!
What a hostel room looks like – Washington DC
Capitol
(Very) White House
Huge salad!
Taco Bell
…so, I think you can see.. I could hardly walk
Thanks Albert!
Albertooo!!
Alberto describing in Antoine what happened last night – hahhaha!!
Well, that looked like old-fashioned American style
and tasted like…
french fries french fries french fries
Saint Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral, Washington DC I
Saint Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral, Washington DC II
C o L d !!!
Well… wow!
agape
Ruben in Fredericksburg
Never imagined veg food could be so delicious!
Yeap!
Thank you so much Roy!
American TV – this guy (what’s his name again?) is so funny!
This coffee cake… didn’t taste like coffee.. It was sweet and butterish and… mmm
YEAP
Nice one
Nice two
This is….
Frozen lemonade
My bottle fell while on the go and… haha, no need to turn the lid now
Finally!
Yuppeeee
Magical
What a company ! Beer pong! He!
“monkey..here… good giiiirl” 😉
Freeeeeesh!
Nice
N-ice
Adalooo!
Weeks 8, 9, 10 – Massachusetts
Hello World (part I),
28th of December of 2015, here.
I am typing these words having already spent 11 days in Boston. That’s a lot, but actually I am kind of stuck here as I am waiting for a package and I can’t leave before it arrives. It should have been here before Christmas, but… nope. And the thing is I don’t know when it will be here so I can make a schedule. I feel like a fish out of the water… I wanna ride! I wanna see USA! You may say, ok, look at the bright side, more days to explore Boston!
Well, not exactly like this. I don’t know why-what-how but my situation is one I am feeling sleepy all day. I drink coffee but I feel sleepy. I had days during these first U.S.A weeks that I was sleeping for 15 hours at night and then had 2-3 hours of sleep during the day… Apart from that, I spend some time in Church, since it’s Christmas time. I have found an excellent Bulgarian Orthodox Church very close to where I stay and I am going there every other day.. I enjoy services there so much and I am very happy I met some young Orthodox people from the States.
I also had my bike repaired by Shean at Giant Boston bike shop… I am grateful to this guy because he was so generous… He cleaned my whole bike (which I hadn’t done for the last 2 months….), he replaced the chain and the cassette for free, and he also gave me for free a lot of stuff…Appreciated.
Furthermore, it annoys me so much that I am in the USA for the first time.. everything is so new and… special, and my camera is not working. The official service needs 300 $ and I have to ship the camera. The unofficial service needs about 150 $ but they don’t know how much time they need cause they have to order stuff and this takes time… The camera just gives me a black screen. All the indications is there on the lcd but no normal picture can be captured, only plain black.. I saw a lot of youtube fixes but none of them gives results. I like my camera so much. I am now dedicated to fix it myself.
In addition, I am a bit worried about my budget running low faster than I estimated. I spent for food, accommodation and miscellaneous stuff for 7 weeks in Europe, 840 €. Which is…ok, I think.. But I also spent 220 € more for getting to the airport and buying extra kilos (and some 100 € on software for videoediting-timelapse).
Now, as far as the USA in itself is concerned… First impression? I am amased! People here are FRIENDLY, OPEN, KIND, GENEROUS, SMILEY, HELPFUL (so far, eh)… Example: When I landed here I was trying to ride from the airport to the city center without getting in the highways.. After some time and many attempts I was desperate and got into the mini market of a gas station. I asked the cashier if she knew a way to the city that is appropriate for cyclists. She didn’t know, but she started asking “Hey sir, do you know…”. After 3 minutes there were 5 people around me, something like a consultation, trying to find out what’s the best way for me to get to the city… I was smiling like a 7 year old..
But everywhere really – you go into a shop, you ‘ll probably find someone who likes the his/her job and is smiley – I went to a cafe yesterday and the lady at the cashier asked me “how are you today, sir?” – (yes, I know it’s part of her job, but I can tell when someone is unwillingly doing something or not).. Even random people on the street are very helpful. I am happy to ask for directions here, really. One lady at the bus stop just started talking to me about how people are afraid here of the strangers (and that they have guns at home) and stuff. We had a good 20 minute conversation.
There are also a lot of guidelines, here, on how to behave. Labels on the street, on the shops, everywhere. And also, do I need to mention that everything here is… extra large.. The streets, the cars, the supermarkets…
Oh, I should mention that I celebrated Christmas at the Annunciation Greek orthodox cathedral of New England. After the Liturgy I was invited at the house of Papadopoulos family at a festive meal that was such an experience for me and I enjoyed it a lot. These people just opened their house to a total stranger and I am so grateful about that. The father, Mr. Alekos, has spent over 40 years in the U.S.A and, in answering my questions, he was telling me how valid they are the “American Dream”,”…the land of opportunities” etc. (if you are working hard, of course, and you are relatively smart).
Papadopoulos Family!
At this point I wanna thank from the bottom of my heart Marios and Mihalis for their warm hospitality in Boston. It was really important for me to have my first days in the U.S.A in a proper and comfortable place.
On a personal note, now,
Ι felt kind of lonely these days. I mean… I enjoy being alone, especially when I am riding – it’s fun. [Of course some company would make the journey less boring, sometimes]. But, these days, I don’t know – a bit lonely. Not some being-far-from-home-during-Christmas loneliness, no. I know there are people who love me and I can call them whenever I want and feel their presence.. I hadn’t really something important to share. But sometimes you wanna chat with a close person of yours just for everyday stuff. You know, just share some thoughts on ordinary stuff. How have I dealt with this feeling? I responded to my self with an “empathetic nudge”: imagine how many people live alone in small or big apartments, how many are alone in hospital rooms, how many elderly don’t have someone. Or even, and that’s closer to my reality, how many fellow-Greeks may feel being abroad, away from their country, away from their beloved, distanced from a place they love. Conclusion: when I feel bad or awkward, I look from above, the macro-image, I place myself in a broader context. At the time, I felt being one with all these “stand-alone-units” around the world -> not alone anymore. Cool how perspective and thinking can change your feelings… (When I finished this paragraph, i grabbed my coffee and I saw this on the cup )
Oh… and there is another feeling knocking my door these days. I think this is because I am not changing location for some time and I am pretty much alone to spend some time… thinking in retrospect.. It has to do with… well, how realistic is my travelling proposition. It is this fight between the colorful (dreaming and believing in the potentiality and in the inner hidden powers of yours) AND the neutral (living in a reality of limited time, money, energy).
I think the seed was this animal cry in Paris… I got afraid my friends at that point. Fear. I had never experienced fear in my life. Like fear, real sense of wearef*ckednow. So, these days I am having recurring thoughts about encountering bears, about snakes. And all these obstacles I had so far, with the weather, with the road, with finding where to sleep. I mean, at the time (when I was having all these issues) I had no negative thoughts or even negative feelings [cold? ok.. I am cold but hey I am out here – going around with my bicycle – from country to country – how cool is that? -> no cold) – you know, I was so excited. I am now, too, but now I can look back at the first completed part of the journey and look again in front of me. And be more realistic. Latin America.. Africa….Africa… Africa…
Of course I want to go there so much and see these people – how they live, how they are. I had no thoughts of by-passing a part of the journey. I am just feeling a bit afraid and… awkward and.. i-am-so-small-this-is-too-big.
Before we move to “Hello World (part II)”, which is below, you can have a look at how I get to Boston.. Or… 19 minutes on “25 hours in a day”!
Hello World (part II),
3rd of January of 2016.
4 days so far in New York City. What’s been happening….?
I couldn’t wait more for the package to arrive and I also didn’t want to ride on the 31st, so I left on the 29th in order to ride a good 370 km in two days and reach New York… Well, I woke up on the 29th and everything was white! (First day for this year!) I was happy looking the nearby roofs full of snow but my smile faded away as I saw the streets condition. And that was….. snowy, icy, waterish… 😦 I said “well, no matter what, I am leaving Boston to-da-y”. This is what followed.
So I said “ok I ‘ll take the train”.. I went to Worcester Train Station. There was no-one there. No tickets office at all. Just a security guy – I told him “I wanna go to Hartford, do you know..”, he said “I don’t do Amtrak, I do Security” (*Amtrak is the National Railroad company)… I went to the platform, I asked around, they told me “you can’t go to Hartford directly from here, you have to go to South Station and then take the train to Hartford”. I bought a ticket from the machine – it was just 10 $ and I am like “yes, South Station must be somewhere around here…”. Well… no.. I started talking with some people at the train and I realised that South Station is the central station of…… Boston! Goodness me, why didn’t they name it Boston Central Station – Boston Train – This Is Boston, People or something similar.. Ohhh (**then I remembered the central train station of Athens that is called Larissa Station (Larissa is a Greek city pretty far from Athens…). I went to South Station and the last train to Hartford had left an hour ago… I spent 7-8 hours wet, with constant rain/snow/hail, I had 2 falls, my phone got wet and it’s not working, and I was again at the same city – Oh!
There was no alternative left – if I wanted New York for New Year I had to take the train. I didn’t fancy at all this option cause I wanted to ride to New York but I my choices were limited. However… bikes are not allowed at this specific route (from Boston to New York)! My only option was to fold it and take it with me as a luggage… And… this worked out! Thank God!
At New York I am being hosted by my cousin Panos..! I am so grateful to him because he showed me some very cool places to eat in New York and we also had an awesome bike ride and party in New Years eve! I had such a nice time so far in New York..
With my cousin Christina at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
With my cousin Panos at Brooklyn Bridge
New York is simply… amazing… I have been in some cities in my life but this is… extra ordinary. You step in the middle of an avenue and just look at the horizon…Everything is so big! Tall and pompous and majestic and impressive and imposing. Every 100 meters I am like “wow…just..wow”. Put this place at your travel destinations list and save some good money cause everything here is… expensive!
Now, I need to tell you about another incident with great importance to me. It was not just a moment or an event that fired like fireworks do. It was a continuous internal worry (like an upward slope) that peaked the night of the 30th of December. Panos (my cousin) put a tv series on (Long Way Down, with Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman) that had to do with 2 guys riding their motorbikes in Africa (from Tunisia to South Africa). I liked it a lot and it indeed bear resemblance to what I am having so far (in terms of the nature of the questions travelers pose). The only thing different was the landscape and the very very very poor infrastructure that you could see in the African countries. And also that these guys were riding motorbikes. And also that they had a crew, and cameramen and doctor..
I am alone.. and I will be facing some really big Questions… there.. Where do I eat, where do I find water, is this place dangerous to camp, where is the closest bike shop? Ok, pretty much all these questions are familiar to the questions I was seeking answers to these 7 weeks in Europe.. BUT I failed repeatedly in answering them properly so far… That’s the thing. I was saying that Europe is a test to see if the whole trip is possible… so if that was a test I had really failed… I enjoyed so much all the unexpected occurrences and surprises but this is not how I should proceed further on. I can’t imagine myself in Africa getting lost so much, looking for a place to stay at the very last moment, having surprises with animals in semi-forest areas, etc. I mean, I know these will do happen, but this should be the exception, not the norm.
I need to focus more on the months coming and plan accordingly.
So, there is only one big resolution for year 2016. Only one. I don’t know what exactly it needs this wish/goal to be fulfilled but this is it. Plain and clear.
“Do not leave stuff for the very last moment”
The intention with the above sequence of images is to capture not only how fast years/time pass by, but also the need to pause and think and reflect upon our actions – stay alone a little bit and examine ourselves. I also liked the…reflections of the screen (image of me) into the glass (apple cider & whiskey!) – this is because I am pondering on my activity as performance mediated through Cameras-Facebook-Blog etc.)
The intention with the below sequence of images is to give you a glimpse of what Boston looks like. My camera being broken I acknowledge that it’s really nothing special. (More on New York at the next Post)
🙂
Picasso, Van Gogh, Monet… at Harvard Arts Museum
I am not sure of the date but it was around Christmas.. I turn my head and I see “ΚΟΥΡΑΜΠΙΕΔΕΣ” and I am like whaaaaat??
Van Gogh himself
…
Harvard Yard
John Harvard Himself
Havard’s
Charles river of Boston
Well, a typical Boston bus
So tasty and Greek and on sale (3 $ ! )
!
I spent half an hour in order to decide..
Expensive…
This must be the most fatty cheesecake of my life
Snow – ice – adventure I
Snow – ice – adventure II
Week 7 – Switzerland, France
11 days – I had: proper rest and family love in Zurich, a perfect host in Basel, a terrifying night of camping in Villersexel, a last-moment and luxurious camping in Langres, a train in Troyes, my friends in Paris, before-the-flight stress in Charles de Gaulle Airport, 20 minutes in Iceland, 2 hours under captivity in Boston Logan Airport, heavy rain and finally peaceful, warm, feeling-like-home environment in Boston.
Let the video tell the story.
So yes, from a point and then I knew that the 230 km was unrealistic. I started not feeling really comfortable with the (dark + fog + 1 lane = dangerous) equation, so a beautiful and full of leaves spot by the road seemed the ideal place to camp. When I was setting up my tent I started listening to owls and I saw one little squirrel. I enjoyed it at that moment but also I was really attentive to any other creature because I didn’t want any surprises and it was dark already. The thing is…. I woke up in the middle of the night out of very loud animal cries… I know it wasn’t something small, it wasn’t familiar and it wasn’t very close. It was somewhere around… I have never been more frightened in my life and I don’t ever want to find myself in a similar occurrence… (Now I was typing these words I got really curious to find out what animal was that. The sound was very similar to this one………..) I was thinking what should I do.. Should I leave? (It was very difficult to pack everything fast in cold and dark, so I just stayed there). I started praying and soon enough I slept again… I saw in my dream my godfather… reassuring me that everything is ok and I shouldn’t be worried… I woke up again and again but I was feeling like this issue is arranged. Thanks none 🙂
At my first day in France a very touching incident took place. I was standing by the road, looking at my gps where should I go. At some point a car came by me with a French couple that insisted on helping me find my way. They indeed took me from a “secret” road that saved me 4 km, but this was nothing. They stepped aside right before we separate so we meet each other properly. After telling them about my trip the French lady went into the car, came out, and gave me 40 euros and a chocolate bar!!! While I refused to accept them, she just forced her hand into my pocket! Merci beaucoup Gerard and Sndrine!
And now the 11th of December. A very special day that I woke up very cheerful…! (yes, this is how the time passes when you are alone for so many hours)
I finally got to Troyes and took the Train to Paris. I paid 27 euros for 1 and a half hour trip without a special for the bike… But hey, I am having a folding bike (see below)!
To sum up, in 4 days I had 462 km in 26 hours. Everyday it was getting a lot more difficult and the last day, even from the very first miles, I had sore legs totally unwilling to turn the pedal.. All of this, thought, had soon been forgotten, as I rode out of the train station, down to Paris neighborhood called Marais. From the very beginning Paris seemed to be very vibrant, alive. I fell in love in 10 minutes and the smile couldn’t leave from my face. It stuck there even more when I met my lovely friends George and Dafne (who came from Greece), and Rania, Georgina, Nefeli, and Mr. Konstantinos Anagnostou (who came from London). We had 3 wonderful days together!!!!
I could write a book in regard to our time in Paris, but since “a picture is worth a thousand words”, I ‘ll opt for creating a gallery that’s way less time-consuming 😉
And now, two words in regard to my last day in Europe and the first day in the USA.
“I always wanted more hours in a day so I don’t need to choose between sleeping and other cool stuff. Well, yesterday (17/12/2015 was the l o n g e s t day of my life! Literally, I traveled in time and space! Left at 16:00 from Keflavik airport (in Iceland), and reached Boston at 17:00, after a 6 hours flight! Woke up at 07:00 in Paris and slept at 08:00 (in Paris time) in Boston! Well, a 25hour adventure! Send cards by post / take the huge box with the bike at the airport / fly to Iceland / fly to Boston / leave the airport 5 hours after landing (kept in the U.S. customs and border protection + re-assemble the bike / ride from the airport to Boston in rain and no maps and highways (took a train to avoid them)/ Woohoo!
Packing up the bike!
In the very morning, what I had not put into the box I take it in my backpack. But everyone in the room was asleep, so I needed to take them outside and properly arrange them in the bag..
Packing like a pro (I was saying to myself….
…until I reach the metro station (never happened)
Boarding time.. What a relief!
Yeah! Cheap coffee bought before the flight
not=so-much-ice-land
Chasing the sun – time-travelling
😀
…I just can’t hide it
Rainy Boston Welcome
Folding it is!!!
Yes… I didn’t tell you that my camera stopped working… 😦 You can turn it on and all the indications are on the led screen and everything seems to be OK apart from the fact that it just shows black on the screen, and it takes only plain black photos… Error E32… 
So, here is the last pictures from my amazing camera. Accompanied by pictures shot by Dafne and George, with their own cameras.
Week 6 – Italy, Switzerland
No flow this week – just random thoughts – small bits and pieces.
Feelings | Facts | Images | Videos | People | Moments
40 days far from home. But now I am really into it – I don’t look back anymore.. Maybe I should start saying
410 days left to go back home. But, still, this is not sure..
6 weeks was enough time to give me an idea of what this 15 months may look like. I like it a lot – all this (almost everyday) change of habitat is intriguing and full of stimuli. But this trip is not vacations. There is next to no free time. One side of it is what you see: riding for so much time, camping, meeting people. Another side is what’s in my mind: so many possibilities while moving. So much inactive potential. Visiting places, meeting people, keeping it online, say some things about the churches, say some things about the rides, find a way to get into schools, record your feelings, send this email – send that email, make a song while riding, take pictures of Greek words and make a truly greeklish story, experiment with your camera, write an article in Greek………
I had mixed feelings this week. Everyday I wake up and I am very happy. I AM DOING IT – pause – LOOK AROUND – yes! But there are also some must-do’s in my head. I must be there by tomorrow, I must update my map online, I must send this damn email. And all these new things that I could do… There are a few times I feel overwhelmed – I feel all this is way too big to handle. I feel a pressure at my chest.
And then I answer to myself:
Man, you are a tiny small dot in this universe’s time and space. You are a next-to-nothing something that will die tomorrow ( I am ONE out of the 7 billion humans living currently on the planet out of the 100 billion humans ever lived on the planet. A planet aged 4.5 billion years in a 14 billion years aged universe). In this timeline I will die… tomorrow! I don’t have time to waste in being anxious, I have limited time to enjoy all this gift-present of now. I certainly don’t have time not to Live my trip, I don’t have time not to feel what you&you&you feel. So, relax man, and see the greater picture. This trip is not what it could be – this trip is not what it should be. This trip is this trip – embrace it as it is – “live it | love it” as you say. And this is how I relax and I am looking for alternatives in every problem. Relax – ask yourself what is the most important – ask yourself why are you doing this – find alternatives – CREATE alternatives.
However. All this theoretical positivish blabla above needs some serious realistic proposition in order to get me out of the feeling of a-bit-distanced-current-reality. (Paradoxically, this feeling coexists with a truly fulfilling feeling of living-in-the-moment. It’s possible, believe me.) Now, I need to put in order my everyday life. I need to set priorities. I need to get better organised. In order to be more safe, in order to save money, in order not to waste energy. I spent 4 hours at a cold Milanese night this week looking for a hostel. F O U R hours! I spent 3 hours in Venice, for the same reason, carrying the bike on my back. But there are so many things to do today that I forget about the essentials: Be sure about my route, for example. 20 rides so far and not even one of them was proper – “I’ ll go from A to B, this way”. I always improvise because my gps has been failing me repeatedly and even google maps make mistakes… So far, what I do is heading into the center of a city and asking for a hostel around. Just asking.
Riding to Verona – A getting-wiser moment
I slept in Venice on Sunday the 30th. I had this strong feeling that I described above: there-are-so-many-things-to-do-and-I-will-f*cking-do-everything-now – I’ll reach “NOW”, now! So, I had been doing stuff online all-night long, just slept for an hour and woke up to go to the Orthodox Cathedral of San Giorgio dei Greci in Venice.
After enjoying an Italian coffee (quick espresso) with the congregation, I packed my stuff and I was ready to leave from Venice. I put the bags on my shoulders and worked my way out of the old -island-town. (I was carrying my bike again).
On my way out of the complex of Venetian Isles I had to cross a 3 km bridge. When I was going to Venice I missed the entrance to the bike lane (which was next to, but clearly divided from, the road) and I was riding at the road, where I got a reprimand from the local police at the end of the bridge. Now, when I was leaving from Venice, and because it was common in some roads to keep both directions of the bike lanes in one side of the road, I went directly to the bike lane that I had missed when going to Venice (which was next to the, opposite for me, direction of the cars). (I just went there – it was an arbitrary, on the spot, spontaneous decision). I rode across the bridge, and at the end of it, I realised that there was no way to cross the road and go to the direction that was getting out of Venice. (See picture below). Oh! I should go back and follow the normal road that was heading out of Venice…..
I shut down all parallel brain activities for 10 seconds and focused. At that time, all the pieces of a logical puzzle came together into my mind to form a more rational-realistic picture of my reality. It was 15:00 o clock – I had 130 km in front of me – I had slept for only one hour – I remembered a message I received the previous night by Katia (mother of a good friend) that moved me, and she was advising me not to ride at night. And then it kind of took flesh and blood this phrase that ranks first on my receiving-wishes-phrasebook: “να προσέχεις” (take care of your self). Na proseheis, na proseheis, na proseheis.. [So far, when I was reading all these wishes I was saying to my self: ok, ok I will take care, I do take care, what does it mean to “take care” in such a dynamic and uncertain environment – It seemed to me such a general and all-encompassing-so-nothing-revealing phrase that I was mocking it.]
However, at that point I said “man, here it is: “take care” is not to ride for 7 hours in the dark, for 130 km, having slept only for one hour, without being sure of your route. This is what taking care of yourself means! It is so simple – open your eyes!” (This kept less than 10 seconds) I turned around, heading back to Venice again – I said “f*ck it, I’ ll take the train” and went back to Venice’s Train Station. Met Jack, another cyclist traveler and had a long talk before I went to the train station and buy a ticket to Milan (20€ for me and 3€ for the bike, 267 km and 2 ride-days less).
This was a getting-wiser moment for me, although I guess a wise person wouldn’t proclaim his wisdom growing. However, I am not wise – I just fought with my ego these 10 seconds of realism at that end of the bridge.
I went to Milan. I was looking for a hostel for 4 hours. I was feeling cold. I went to more than 10 hostels. Some were very expensive (20 euros or more, some were full, some were not there, and one while telling me that there is a free bed, didn’t let me into the hostel!!) I found a guest house for 15euros/night where I had a 14 hour long proper sleep.
I didn’t really see Milan. What I saw in both Venice and Milan, though, was the 2 sides of the capitalistic coin. On the one side you could see all the Italian high class style on the way people were dressed (extravagant clothes, fancy hats etc.), in the way the streets and the shops looked like and of course on the high prices. On the other side of the coin, I saw many many non-Italians, immigrants. And I saw some really sad faces of people from Bangladesh on the streets that were selling (trying to, actually) the typical cheap tourist-like or seasoned stuff. A note here: The hostel in Venice was run by a 3 below 25 yo persons from Bangladesh, Turkey and China. The Hostel in Milan, from 3 below 25 persons from Philippines, Ecuador and China.
Enjoy the jaw-dropping beauty of Venice!
And now, get ready for the longest and most tiring riding day so far… 170 km and 2.464 m total elevation gain – getting into the Alps by bike? – 5.000 kcal needed! Enjoy!
I forgot all of my physical exhaustion right away when I found my camping spot, some hundred meters after Airolo. So magical was that place that my psychology went from the sense-of-achievement paradise to the seventh heaven of camping-by-a-small-river-and-under-the-stars-all-alone.. Oh, definitely worth the effort!
The view I had from my tent
I was setting the tent with my red head light on, in order to be as discreet as possible
Now I was about to write in regard to the next day, Thursday the 3rd, when I rode to Zurich… But, I forgot to mention, that that day begun, actually, one day earlier. Upon my arrival in Airolo (which is an Italian-speaking village) I met 2 guys on the street that started talking to me in Italian and I was responding in Spanish. They pointed a bar to me saying that the owner speaks Spanish. So, I just went there to change clothes and charge (I didn’t have time for the second as they closde at 20:00). The good thing was, that after some time talking with the owner, he let me know that I cannot go to Zurich by bike straight from Airolo as some roads later on the mountain were closed due to Winter weather!!! He told me that the only way was to take the train to the next village (at the other side of the mountain) and get from there to Zurich.. So, on Thursday the 3rd of December, I took the train to Goschenen (paying 6 Swiss franks for me and 6 for the bike, approx 11 euros) and rode 116 km, without batteries charged, to Zurich.. (How naive I was – I thought it would be an extremely easy ride, because I had climbed so much the previous day…. NOT)
Ah, on my way to Zurich I was stopped by the Police for being extremely cool and beautiful with my undercover e-bike… Well, not exactly like this, I was stopped by the police because I rode for 10 seconds on the left side of the road! One of the two cops took my passport and was trying for 5 minutes (making phonecalls) to write me a fine, while the other cop was kind of mocking me.. No fine, finally 😀
Now, I would really like to thank Eleanna and Panagiotis (my bro) for hosting me here in Zurich and taking care of me so much (feeling like a king :D)
Enjoy the rest of the pictures! Next week Paris, France to celebrate my Birthday with super lovely friends!! Yihaaaaaa!! Have an AWESOME week you people!
Lago Como
Lugano I
Lugano II
Charging your car?
Hug it!
Entering the Alps
While I had started climbing I entered this village and been encouraged by its name: Prosito = προσιτό = accessible! 🙂
Entering Paradise?
Beautiful
A R T !
Swiss Police stopped and attempted to fine me due to excessive beauty! (…for being on the left part of the lane)
Swarovski……….
Beautiful Zurich I
Beautiful Zurich II
Beautiful Zurich III
Beautiful Zurich IV
Fairytale Zurich
Week 5 – Slovenia, Italy
In Italy!
1 month + 2 days in total.
3rd country in this week. 4 weeks far from home.
18 rides – 106 hours cycling – 2.131 km! Woohoo! 😀
Now lying on my bed at a Venezian hostel (20 €/night w/breakfast, this city is soooo expensive!) – ready to write down what’s been happening these last days. I had some time this week to explore my feelings a little bit, as after leaving Zagreb, I can say, I spent most of my time alone. There were people around me, but I didn’t have these longer conversations I had the previous weeks.
Now, add to that the fact that spending so much time on two wheels provides you with plenty of time to think, and mile by mile pass through the entire emotional spectrum. There were times of swearing and cursing half of the universe and there were times of love and compassion for the whole humanity.
So, there’s a question that keeps coming into my mind as I move forward and get to meet more people – “Why I wasn’t saving money and travelling for so many years? Just backpacking – exploring the world – check what’s around. This experience is so much broadening your horizons as to who you are – what is your place in this world. (Funny here, the day before yesterday I was trying to find a hostel in Venice, carrying my bike along the way. After like 20 minutes of riding and walking slowly into the narrow alleys of the old town, a waiter from a bar started yelling at me for bringing the bike into the island-city. So he told me something and I responded in Spanish that I didn’t know (that bikes were forbidden) and he got so mad at me and started shouting “no lo se puede – no lo se puede – bicicletta – Venezia – no lo se puede [=impossible not to know]. It was so normal for him to know that, because Venice is the center of his world – I had no idea whatsoever)
So, last Sunday I was writing from Zagreb, Croatia, and now, 7 days later I am in Venice, Italy. 3rd country in a week… Thinking how compact my days are, how full. I am a bit worried for the intense moments that go by and I cannot reflect upon them as.. oops, yet another is coming.. I haven’t yet found a way to put down my thoughts and feelings. Started recording but it’s not always so easy (now, for example, two Japanese are sleeping in the room), writing takes a lot of time and I can’t have my tablet at hand always. Now in the blog, I can’t write everything as you understand – there are some things very personal 😉 But I am happy for my electronic footprints.. I look back and I smile.
On Sunday the 22nd of November I woke up in Zagreb – much later than desired. After being a bit lost in the city I arrived at the very beautiful Christian Orthodox church of the Transfiguration of the Lord in Zagreb. I got there at the very end of the Service and I was really disappointed. You see, the whole blog-post preparation takes a lot of time and I barely slept on the previous Saturday night. [I am concerned about the blog and the social media – I was never into these, really. Still I am not sure I know exactly what hashtag is for or how to upload something on every platform simultaneously.. It takes a lot of time and I don’t know -I mean, I kind of feel- but I don’t know who is actually reading all of these or if it worths it.]
Orthodox Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord I
Orthodox Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Lord II
On Sunday night I had a very nice chat in the hostel with Rana from Germany Berlin 😉 and Will-sir-Willliam ;), from the USA. It had to do with.. well, is difficult to sum it up – parts of it: “Is travelling as getting-out-of-your-comfort-zone the right answer to all people on the question how do I make the most out of my life?” or, the fact that we are all “products of our society” and at the same time free to chose are own path. Nothing very special, but I really enjoyed it. [Will kind of represented the American Dream, while Rana the German realism – hehe]. However, I am mentioning it here because it once more made clear to me that Hostels are like apiaries (μελίσσια) – full of bees!
Count Josip Jelačić of Bužim
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića
On Monday morning I left to Ljubljana, Slovenia. 130km – I was expecting some snow and some cold and I was prepared for them… What I was not prepared for was that one very “clever” roommate of mine that had unplugged the cable that powered the plug I had at my bed. So I woke up and saw my two batteries with their light still red – there were not charged at all. Urgh I bought a looot of cookies and made it to Slovenia! Ljubljana was just adorable!!!
And now… the good stuff!!
On November the 26th, Thursday, I left Ljubljana to cross the Sloveno-Italian borders and reach Udine, where I would spend one night… It was 130km, with one mountain (similar to the Greek mount Ymittos) – It wouldn’t be that hard, I supposed… There was a surprise, though…
As I was cycling I was pondering what to do. I was very concerned, so after the first small climbing I was like “ok, no no – 130 km is a lot – you ‘ll stop here, at the first wi-fi cafe – before getting into the mountain – and if you don’t find a solution, you won’t leave”. But, I couldn’t see any proper cafe so I ended up, without actually realising it, climbing up the hill.. After some time, the view was so good I enjoyed it!
But then again I knew there were worse coming.. I ate a bit, I got mentally prepared and…
[So, luckily, at some point, when actually I needed it the most, add-e started working. And it happened in a very, I would admit, peculiar way. After 40 km that was ON but not functional, and at a point I had started to feel a bit desperate (saying to myself: “if this hill is that steep for more, I ‘ll need to step down, and start walking carrying the bike”), I shouted, rather arbitrarily, (έλα ρε add-e) “come on add-e”, and before I finish the “add-e” part, it “came back to life!!!]
After the beautiful sleep I left to Venice… 130 km without batteries, since I couldn’t charge last night… However, I had already checked and there was not a lot of climbing, so I was like “ok, eat well, drink a lot, concentrate, you can do it”! I also treated myself well…
And made it to Venice! How beautiful – how magical is this place?!
I spent a looot of time to find where to sleep and I was carrying my bike in stairs and bridges – really tiring a day! But Venice narrow alleys and small plazas paid me off!
Zagreb at night
Transfiguration of the Lord, Orthodox Cathedral, Zagreb
Transfiguration of the Lord, Orthodox Cathedral, Zagreb
…….
Entering Slovenia
Refugee Camps
Oh, now I feel safer
20:30 – 23km outside Ljubljana, Village Polica (lost there)
Luxury Hostel in Ljubljana (12€/night)
How did it know?!?!?!
Ljubljana
Ljubljana’s graffiti I
Ljubljana’s graffiti II
Ljubljana’s graffiti III
Ljubljana’s graffiti IIII
Ljubljana’s graffiti IIIII
Such a nice place, really
Rivers and stuff 😛
This guy on the right was there for like 10 hours
Nice one!
…”a lot better too” !!
Right before leaving Ljubljana – Woke up and it was snowing!
Trying to figure out what’s wrong
Yeah!
At that time I was afraid that later this snow on the street would be ice…. If I’d been there one week later, I don’t know if I would have make it
Hi there!
This.
Steeeeep.
Italia! (there was nobody at the borders, I just crossed)
C o l d! (outside my tent ;))
Italia = Pizza!
B e a u t i f u l !
Found hostel after 2 hours!!! Nice to have a folding bike!
Weeks 3, 4- Bosnia Herzegovina, Croatia
More days + more places + more people + more incidences = stronger feelings! If the trip goes on like this, I am seriously considering not to go back home! ( just kidding, dad 😉 ). I would have left yesterday for Ljubljana (Slovenia), but I said “no, no more input – sit down, concentrate and write”. Recall, describe, create images – embed photos, edit videos, upload.
So here I am, 25 days far from home – this trip so far is magical – it’ s just so good. No, I don’t have much time to explore my surroundings and go to museums, read books, and get lost in the city BUT the people I meet and hang out, and the hours riding close to nature are very rewarding. It’s wonderful to meet all these beautiful locals that want to help you or just meet you. What I also enjoy is that this trip is revealing to me the best version of myself. Along with the happiest and most smiley Angelos of me, comes the most kind and the most calm, the least anxious and the most feeling-good-with-my-body. And this, I see, is kind of happening in others too – in people I meet along the way. When I am telling them I am travelling around with my bike – yes what you see here, I began from Greece, and here I am – they wanna help you, meet you, ask you, be good at you. The epitome, though, of my better version described above is not this better state of me in itself – it is the realisation that “yes, reality can be so good – happiness can be that much – there is a better Angelos hidden inside me”. I am keeping that part for my future: Do not compromise with mediocrity.
I am getting better day by day. Stronger both physically and mentally. As far as the first part is concerned, I am a lot more confident. After the first 60 km riding, I feel that my body is getting in a mode “ah, it’s one of these days – ok, let’s do it”. Two days ago I had 199 km (no mountains included) relatively easy. I was tired on my arrival in Zagreb, but considering that the night before I leave I had a looot of beers, woke up with hang over, had 2.5/3 batteries charged and ate nothing during the 11 hour long ride – well, I am myself surprised..!
(Now, if you are asking why I ate nothing during such a long ride… This is because my Bosnioherzegovinian money was over and I didn’t want to exchange more, as I had exceeded the limit I ‘ve set to myself for the days I spent in Bosnia-Herzegovina twice. What I did is the following: I had 10 little sugar sacks I had taken from a coffee shop. I poured them into my water and I was drinking every once in a while – not the best, of course, but worked out)
Now, what do I mean by getting mentally stronger: I am getting more and more acquainted with the nomad’s “modus vivendi”. I finally found what is the best place for every little thing into my bags, what I need to have quick access to when I ride, what I will need first when I reach a destination, what is in need of charge and at what battery level all my devices are, how much food I need and how I am gonna save more money, what is in need of laundry, how to allocate time in my day etc… Little, important, every-day stuff.
On Friday the 13 of November I left Kotor, Montenegro in order to enter Bosnia and Herszegovina. I was again late in leaving the house, but right after my exit through the door, I was amased by what I saw… I said “Woohoo, that’s a nice day to ride”!!
That day was exhausting. There was a lot of climbing and I was also experimenting a bit with my batteries. In this journey I had my first dog-chasing experience somewhere in a mountain, and guess what – it wasn’t me chasing dogs..
* ( I am shouting in the video – it is for dogs to get scared. Unsuccessful. )
** ( I am also swearing – sorry about that 🙂 )
After a loooong time I finally reached the village of Гацко (Gacko – Gátsko). It was in the middle of my route to my final destination, Sarajevo, so I just spent one night there. But what a night. Right on my arrival, I asked 3 young men on the street if there is any hotel around, and just a second later I paraphrased: hotel – hostel – sleep – bed, accompanying with the appropriate body language.. They got the message and their answer was “ne, ne, ne” – I was really happy, as I was afraid that there would be no place to sleep (and sleeping didn’t matter as I can sleep wherever I want with my amasing camping equipment. Charging was the issue). But wait a second, just remembered that while “ne” in Greek is “yes” in Serbian is “no” – Urgh I went to a bakery (pekara) and asked again. Of course nobody understood English, but one lady told me about a pansion, that I had to search and God knows if I could ever find it. On my way out of the Pekara, 2 boys (14 years old) approached me cheerfully saying “biciklo, biciklo” (bitsiklo) – we body-language-talked for a bit and I left. After 2 minutes (I guess after their visit in the pekara) they came back running and calling me to follow them. For some time we were looking for the pansion, negotiating the price, finding another pansion (10 euros for a 3 bed-room, all for me), helping me with the bicycle, carrying my stuff in the room etc.. So, after all these, I asked them if they wanna join me to eat something together and let me pay in return for their welcoming. They din’t accept me paying but we went together to the pekara hot-spot of Gacko.
First thing I checked: the prices were not in Euro – oh my God – so many delicious bakery products that I couldn’t buy!! Not accepting cards (of course), no banks in Gacko, no ATMs, nothing. The kind lady there, after I bodylanguage explained how tired I am and how hungry blabla she accepted euros and I bought for less than 2,5 euros: 1 big slice of pizza, 1 big peynirli , 1 medium donut and 1 medium chocolate crepe… I was that hungry. In the pekara hot-spot I met many young friends of these 2 kind boys and we spent the next 2 hours together. Fortunately, one of these kids spoke some English. We played chess in the local club and we had a lot of fun walking around and taking pictures. They taught me one new word in Serbian: пријатељ (prijatelj – priatel – friend).
Next day, Saturday the 14th, I left to Sarajevo. I wanted to be there by nighttime cause next day was Sunday and I’d like to go to church at Sarajevo Cathedral. Well… that was the most mountainous day so far….. 3214 meters elevation gain! Or, better, 3214 meters elevation pain! And because my batteries couldn’t last for all these 140 km I was very very tight in their use. I couldn’t actually believe what I was doing (Friday and Saturday combined, I climbed for 5727 meters – that’s like climbing the highest Greek moutain, Olympus, twice!). And there’s more, I finally reached Sarajevo with just 2/3 batteries used). Why I didn’t use the 3rd battery? Cause I wasn’t sure of the elevation profile of my route? And why I was unsure? ….Because the GPS decided to take me from an unpaved road (from a trail actually) in the Sutjeska Nationalni Park, that I simply couldn’t ride… So, I had to make a circle and I was afraid that if I find a mountain too steep I won’t be able to climb it. Check out how Sutjeska Nationalni Park looks like (amazing) and how I spent two hours there (not amazing – but OK)……
*(I would suggest Full HD and Full Screen ;-))
I reached Sarajevo – went straight for a beer => wi-fi access => found hostel (5 euros per night for sleeping on the floor – sound good to me). After the very tiring 2 past days I got some rest there, I went to church on Sunday (started at 10, and I was there at 8 :/), had a small tour around the city and spent some time on-line.. In Sarajevo hostel I met a truly nice guy – his name is Lee and I hope I ‘ll tell you some more things about him at some point. We had very nice and thought provoking chats but what stroked me the most (apart from his travelling lifestyle per se) was his view on the future and on Artificial Intelligence. He believed that, in some years from now, after we find out how memory mechanisms function and how neurons actually do their work we will be able to store our memories and…. kind of upload our consciousness online!!! This sounded so awkward, but after some time with Lee and his technological insights I started to see that this is not that impossible…
Outside Hostel
Inside Hostel
I left Sarajevo on Tuesday the 17th and wanted to reach Zagreb. Because this was approximately 400 km I had to find a place to sleep and charge somewhere in the middle. Checked the map and I saw Banja Luka, Googled it and thought it would be a great middle point. My time in Banja Luka was just… awesome, and my way to Banja Luka was just… crazy. Before I left Sarajevo I had checked the elevation profile of my route. It was 180 km with a mountain in the middle. The good part was that from the 102nd to the 180th km it was all a downward slope…! So I was like, ok, I can spend my 3 batteries on the first 100 kms, going really easy, and then just let it go.. However, I didn’t opt for this as I had learned my lesson from my first night in Montenegro (mountain & no battery & night) and I was tight again – thank God! So, on the 100th km, right before the end of the mountain, the road got unpaved, and I was like “ok, it’s gonna be for a little bit, no worries”. But after some meters, I saw that..
Going to?
Came from
I was like hmm….okay… now what?
I found some carpenters/ guards there and I said “Banja Luka, this way??”, showing my way into the forest…. “Ne ne…neeee” they were saying, making movements about the bad condition of the road later, about getting darker, and one of them actually scared me so much as he was doing like a bear: face and sounds…. You know, forest, night, bears, you don’t want that… So, I checked the gps and what they were suggesting was…. doing a 180 km circle in order to reach Banja Luka, going my way back and taking another route…! Right upon my realisation that “Houston, we’ve got a problem”, another 50yo guy arrived with his car.. he listened to the conversation and told me in flawless body-language that he will take me to 3uffwafiyaw – I didn’t understand. He went fishing, I packed my stuff, had a talk with the guards and waited for his coming. Some time later we put bike and stuff in the car and left to… no idea! Somewhere close to Banja Luka I guessed. We spent 1 and a half hour in the car (!) – he was speaking in Serbian, I was speaking in Greek… We had great time.. He was muslim and he was telling me how sorry he was about Paris, and how we all have to live together. (as this is the case in Bosnia – Herzegovina), he was teaching me how Serbian language is pronounced after my reading of all the labels in the street. He also said many more things that I couldn’t understand, but he nonetheless was kept talking. We reached the restaurant he was fishing for, somewhere in the mountains, 65 km from Banja Luka, he bought a coffee for me and I left… I had 3.5 hours in the mountains, with no cars at all. The moon the stars and myself – enjoyed.
Carpenters – guards
Dedo Latovic – Thank you!
Upon my arrival in Banja Luka, I was really amased by the црква (crkva – tsrkva – church) of Christ the Saviour at the central plaza. Had no time though to take a closer look as I had to find a hostel. I had the address of a place, but no hostel was there.. I was really tired and looking around the center (centar – tsentar) but couldn’t find, so I asked someone on the street… And that was it! I asked Alexander… We walked together to the hostel, meet his two friends, Yovan and Ponytail (I couldn’t learn his name!), we started talking outside the hostel – they offered pivo (beer), I offered my almond liquor that my Aunt Roula had given it to me… After rejecting the hostel (they asked for 15 euros) we left to drink a beer together! Alexander hosted me at his place, where Yovan also was staying for the time… We had such a good time. They had consumed a good amount of alcohol by the time I met them and Alexander was street-dancing and shouting “orthodox brothers – orthodox brothers” (they were Orthodox Christians too). Paok- partizan – olympiakos came into our conversation and.. It was so fun – I cannot explain. We reached home (Alexander’s mother was not so happy to see me – he was saying about terrorist, refugee, I didn’t really understand, but I am grateful that she finally let me in..)
Саборни Храм Христа Спаситеља – Бања Лука
Saborni Hram Hrista Spasitelja – Banja Luka
Now, I didn’t tell you that Yovan had forgotten his bag in the bar we had the beer at, and the bag was lost!!! He had in the bag something like 300 euros in Bosnioherzegovinian money (for the university) and all of his documents and other important stuff, so next day he was very upset. We spent all morning with Yovan and his friend Slobodan to find the crni ranac (tsrne ranats – black bag) – we followed the exact route we had yesterday, went to the bar, went to the post office (lost and found there), to the central police, to the neighborhood police, to the schools nearby… And finally we found it!!! It was at the neighborhood police – more than half of the money inside and all the documents. Someone stole it, took the money (he found) and left it on the street. Now, the nearby school principal called the police, cause there was a crni ranac unattended, and the bag went to the police! Haha! We spent the next 12 hours drinking and celebrating. I met Branka, friend of Yovan, who was so good in history and was explaining to me about the area, about the post-yugoslavia situation, language, Christian-Muslim and ethnic relations… I enjoyed my time so much!! At night we went to a live rock concert at the university where we danced and had great time!!!! So happy I met them and so grateful for everything!!!!! 😀
Branka and Yovan!
Yovan and cerni ranac in my ❤
Now, chilling at the wonderful Zagreb! 😀
Enjoy the pictures below and let me know in the comments what you like the most in the post! Kisses to all – tomorrow Ljubljana!
😀
In front of Ana’s house – ready to go to enter Bosnia and Herzegovina
Spectacular foggy Bay of Kotor
Peaceful
Climbing for 13km on a more than 10% inclination!
Welcome to Republica Sprska (yes, well read, 5 consonants in a row)
Gacko…
Sutjeska National Park (unforgettable)
In the video above I sound kind of anxious and tired I think – I had great time though 🙂
My vehicle goes everywhere (Thanks Simos! 😉
This trees were soo colorful!
Orange, red, brown of all coloration, green… #naturalfilter
Sarajevo’s old town
workers res and have a coffee
Catholic Cathedral of Jesus’ Heart in Sarajevo
Orthodox Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos in Sarajevo
A poem I enjoyed in one of the hostel’s walls
Olives in Greece, sheeps in Albania, carpenters and wood-work in Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina
Muslim cemetery (do I have to write this?)
We can do it all together
Врбас river, Бања Лука
Sintagma (greek words are everywhere)
A beautiful church
Yeap
I so much enjoy this!
Ruta Sava in Croatia – very brautiful!
The sky was so auburn (thanks Will from USA for the input)
So you see these little red candles everywhere in Croatia
Week 2 – Albania, Montenegro
16 days far from home have passed and I have to admit there were some moments during this second week I had this feeling that takes less than a second, and can only be described here as a thought: “oh, I am having such a lovely time – I don’t want this to finish”. Yes, kind of the feeling you have when you first lick an amazing ice-cream. Well, ice-cream gets melt if you don’t enjoy it fast enough and, same way, days fly by and I can’t say I am enjoying my surroundings that much. I still haven’t managed to put in order my internet life or organise my next few days. For example, this S in A.W.E.S.O.M.E is not that right so far, as I have done no couchSurfing yet. You see, you can’t send a host request one day before you get to that place, and I kind of plan my “tomorrow”…well, today. HOWEVER, I am fused and propulsed by the love I get through this screen and through all the messages I receive and the support. I am grateful for that – I ride my bike and I smile or even burst into laughter as realising-what’s-happening fireworks boom into my head 😀
This second week had been full of surprises. Full of unexpected occurrences that actually turned out really well.
On Thursday the 5th I left Gjirokaster around 12:00 to head off to Ardenica (my middle-stop for the night, cause going straight to Tirane was such a long distance). I had been riding for 2 hours in dark, but before I go I had to finish my 1st blog post and say goodbye to all little friends in the school I had visited.
The funny thing of that day was the following:
While being in Gjirokaster I had asked a good man to communicate with the Holy Orthodox Monastery of the Nativity of Theotokos in Ardenica in order to be hosted there for one night. Indeed the phone-call took place in front of my eyes, or better, in front of my ears, as I listened to the Albanian conversation and stated that I would be at the Monastery at 6 o’clock in the afternoon… So far so good. I finally arrived at the monastery at 8 o’clock, after one hour searching for it in dark roads, fields, and angry (but leashed) dogs. Also, after climbing for some time (cause as you know, monasteries are in the top of mountains). When I finally made it to the door and knocked, the monk there seemed to have absolutely no idea about my coming (!!). For some seconds I thought I was in a wrong monastery, but hey how many monasteries can be around here?! Thank God the monk did know Greek and despite telling me that the monastery does not host, he welcomed me in. There are two monks in the monastery, Fr. S and Fr. A, and I am grateful to them. They cooked sth for me, and next morning they show me around. Funny enough, I happened to have many common friends in Greece with one of the monks as he had spent some time in a Greek monastery.
and the church
Ok, I can’t take photos inside the church, but… from inside?
Next morning, Friday the 6th, I headed to Tirane. That journey was awkward. I had a pain in both knees that intense that I couldn’t stand up on the pedals… But, ok, arrived at Tirane, and went straight at the center of the city. I hadn’t found were to pass the night so I headed to a cafe with Wi-Fi and searched for a hostel. I went straight to the first google result (that happened to be 500 meters from where I was) and asked to stay. Apart from the amazing, aesthetically intriguing, and very clean environment of Tirane Backpackers Hostel, it was also very cheap. For 6 euros per night I had a place in the backyard to sleep, I hand-washed my clothes, I had free breakfast and wi-fi access (!!) The coolest, though, was the price-less part of it: I met some really interesting+beautiful people there. V. – The most cheerful Albanian lady that was so kind and helpful. N. – an Australian 21 yo lady who is travelling around Europe (and beyond) for the last 3 years (!) and D. – her British boyfriend who quitted his job and sold his car to travel with her for the past 4 months! Really enjoyed my time with them!
On Sunday the 8th it was my name-day. I celebrated at the Ressurection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral at Tirana. More on my experience there, on another post.
The center of Tirane is really beautiful. A proper european capital city center. Clean, green, with wide streets, well paved and wide pavements, bike lanes everywhere (although I saw not even one cyclist with a helmet!). I can’t say the same for the house numbering, though. I was looking for number 13 on a big avenue – I must have crossed it 6 times and couldn’t find the shop I was looking for…
In general, throughout Albania, the main streets I was riding at were of really good quality. Albanian people were very friendly and drivers were pretty much respectful of the cyclists (the same doesn’t hold true for Montenegrin drivers). I found Albanian people that could speak Greek everywhere. At the middle of nowhere, at the hostel, at the kebab shop. And also many Albanians who love Greece and Greeks. Overall I had very nice time in Albania. What captured my attention: sooo many places to clean your car (Lavazh.) So many old Mercedes cars, and the most striking: Police Street Checks e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e!!
Words I’ ve learned: Falimenderit schume: thanks a lot, mirëmëngjesi: good morning, gëzuar: cheers, mëshirë Zot: Lord have mercy, Shitet: for Sale, Lavazh: Car wash, Kujdes: Caution, Kisha: church
I left Tirana Backpackers Hostel on Monday the 9th, 07:30, in order to ride a good 200 km (!) and reach Kotor, Montenegro by afternoon. I had seen there was some climbing at the end of my journey (after Podgorica), so I was tight in putting add-e (my electric kit) to work. I reached Skhodër (90 km from Tirane) only with one battery and I was feeling really good and energetic, despite having slept just 5 hours the previous night. There, I had a one-hour break, recharged (not-fully) my battery, had a coffee (espresso for 30 cents!) and left in order to cover 110 km and reach Kotor. Well… Not exactly like this…
After passing through Podgorica (green and beautiful, but I was like non-existent to drivers), just before some serious climbing I was feeling superb…
I had seen there was some climbing after Podgorica, but… that was sth else! MONTEnegro indeed… Steep and endless upward slopes while the sun… had gone to bed a long time ago! I was climbing in dark for 2 hours and started feeling really tired. My legs were ok (for some reason), however the rest of the body seemed unwilling to progress. I was checking at the GPS – I needed sth like 14 km to reach Kotor – zoomed-out the map – at the one side of the screen I could see my location and at the other side where Kotor is. I was climbing and climbing – using my last battery, but this mountain was so steep. My spot on the GPS was not moving at all. I was feeling like “ok – after this turn it ‘s gonna be flat – it has to be flat”, but I could see that the red lights of the cars passing by me were going upwards and turning again and again. I couldn’t ride at all if add-e was off and the time was 18:00. I said “ok, relax – it’s just 14km – with 7kph (that was my speed) you ‘ll be there in less than 2 hours”. I had my snickers – drunk some coffee – ate some raw sugar I had (in case of emergency) and continued riding just looking down at the white lane (since looking up was heart-breaking). At some point, while I had put all my energy into breathing right and concentrating and thinking that “I am not alone – it’s just one mountain”, I saw a restaurant right at the middle of nowhere. There was nothing for miles now, so I was surprised. I said “ok – if I can’t continue I ‘ll just come here”. But as you saw on the video before I was in lack of water, so instead of just passing by, I went in to fill my bottles.. That was it. At that point I realised how tired I was. I sat down and just asked for some food and water. Nobody understood English but body language was understood by everybody. 😀
Put dry clothes on and googled where Kotor is….. Not 14 km far from my location, but 49!!! Stupid gps! I realised it’s impossible to continue, so I just asked to charge my batteries and camp outside the restaurant. I couldn’t eat at all – so I just packed the food, set my tent and went straight to bed. Ah! I should mention here that the “manager” of the restaurant told me the next morning that if I had came 3 minutes later the restaurant would be close!!
Nacionalni Restoran Jezerski Vrh Cetinje
Woke up on Tuesday the 10th and headed to Kotor through Budva in order to avoid the mountains (“manager” also suggested that – yes, all through body language – it’s amazing!). Now I am resting like a king, having the best sleep (next-to-hibernation) I could have in an amazing home at Prčanj, next to the old town of Kotor. I am deeply, truly grateful for that to my good friend Ana and her whole family who, despite not being at the house, they let me in – so happy.
Luckiest man in Europe, I think – hehe…
Can’t wait for my next week, as I am heading to Bosnia and Herzegovina 😀
Nice Spot on my way to Tirane
Haircut?
So many shepherds in Albania
From above
The Monastery of the Nativity of Theotokos in Ardenica
and the church
Ok, I can’t take photos inside the church, but… from inside?
The old oil mill of the Manastir
Corn drying next to the national road
Such a beautiful place to chill
Enjoyed sleeping like this
Nice way to start your day
Before I go – It must have taken 2 hours to pack all my stuff and put it on the bike
Yes, UFO do exist 😉
Not sure who he is
Central plaza and National Historical Museum – worths zooming
Beautiful center 1
Beautiful center 2
(very) Beautiful center 3
Leaving the center’s smog
Cross – ing the borders to Montenegro
Going right is wrong but going left was one hell of a mountain. Found “Paradise” at Cetinje’s Restaurant. HAHAHA 😀
+
Nacionalni Restoran Jezerski Vrh Cetinje
Budva!
Writing from here now 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀 😀
Week 1 – Greece, Albania
Today is the 9th day far from home and I tried yesterday to bring in mind and describe all the interesting bits so far. I hadn’t found some time to properly write down my thoughts, or even put my photos in order, so what you get here is a bit messy. Firstly, I ‘d like to say I am not a proper traveler yet. This is partly because I am not properly documenting what I see nor what I feel. You see, I am in the process of familiarising with this different reality right now. These days there were a lot to do in terms of everyday practicalities, but also a lot to do on-line. Where to eat & sleep, learning the bike, learning my equipment etc. I should also mention that all this internet stuff, from the blog to the social media accounts to capturing – editing stuff and writing is all new to me. I need time to get acquainted with it and hopefully to get better. The first part of this week was intense in terms of cycling and really tiring, while the last 4 days I am more relaxed.
Apart from this blog post I want to write down some things on how I got up to this point (The history so far II, at the bottom you can find the part I), some detailed thanks to the persons supporting this effort, and also some things about the beautiful and very special place I am being hosted right now.
To begin with, I need to make clear that this whole project (I don’t like that word, it makes it too… I don’t know, engineered?) trip was mostly organised at the very last moment. I was dreaming-thinking-googling it for a looong time, but doing stuff – I mean producing some work – happened only after mid August – yes, well read, mid-August. This was also because of a huge change in my plans on late August I think (but more on this later).
My initial plan was to leave on the 1st of September, and then on the 1st of October, and then on the 15th and then on the 19th and then on the 22nd and then on the 26th. My friends were bored of hearing me “leaving” and my neighbors were mocking me. I finally left on the 27th. Yeah! But still there are some issues I have to take care. What was ahead of me was totally unknown and pretty unexpected to be honest. Let’s take it from the beginning.
I left my house on Tuesday, 15:30 – really late, considering I had said to myself “never ride at night”. Right at the first 200 meters I had my first unpleasant surprise – as I pedaled on the main avenue close to my house my electric kit “add-e” didn’t start working. Stopped – checked – everything seemed OK. Pedal again – no add-e. UUuuuurghhh – I had forgotten to charge 1 out of my 3 batteries (!), so I left for my first journey with 2 out of 3. For this, I had to be really careful as I didn’t really know what to expect in terms of range from add-e. I had tested it only once in Athens with my bike fully 20kg loaded and at that test ride I did brake one of the sensors (I hadn’t tied a bag properly, so a strap got into and around the spokes and teared the magnet of the sensor apart). So, practically, I didn’t know what to expect… But I was fine – I felt a bit Jesus-angelos-come-oooon… But I said to myself “you left man, now you left – just go” and I just continued…. 2 km after this another incident happen that was really close to broke my heart – but it didn’t.
Again, I hadn’t properly closed my front bag and my camera (one of my most expensive piece of equipment) just hopped off and crashed at the road. The noise of it hitting the ground was… just heartbreaking. For some seconds I hadn’t realised what exactly fell, but soon enough I saw it with my own eyes. Actually, as I was waiting by the pavement for the cars to pass so I could get it, I saw one car coming over my camera with the front and then with the rear wheels – and my camera going here and there…. Result….
Hehe – What seemed strange even to myself is that it didn’t bother me t
hat much. I had paid a good amount of money for the camera and 2 nights before that incident I had this, you know – like loving a new gadget/thing you buy – when you find it amazing. But, I was so happy that I left I said “ok, it’s just a camera – look at the overall picture, look from above”.
Now, apart from me leaving Athens, so did the sun. It was 18:00 or sth like this when it started getting dark. Off course I had my amazing Tikka RXP super bright head torch that I planned to use it if need be to ride at night. It should be in my front bag. But it wasn’t. I checked again and again but nothing. I thought it “jumped” out of the bag like the camera and I just didn’t realise it at that point. Frustrated I just kept riding in total darkness for some miles. (Asterisk: not total darkness, as it was a full moon night)..
In my whole happiness bubble there were angry spots of mindlessness – 2/3 batteries on my first journey, broken camera, missing head torch, forgotten multi tool (yes, I couldn’t find it before I leave) – bad start… In addition, it was such the pressure of the last days of preparation that I hadn’t managed to find a host in Korinthos – so I just found a hotel with wi-fi and warm shower and stepped in. Actually, it was much better – I stepped in, asked if a folding bike was allowed into the room, they said yes and I just stepped outside and did this.
Went in – got into the elevator with my bike and stuff and had a beautiful night. Wednesday morning I set off to Patras: 130km, 3/3 batteries. On the road I had some testing with photography and stuff. It was nice. I was amased at the range I could get with add-e in not-so-really-climbing situations. I reached Patras, stayed at aunt’s Roulas place, where I had an epic, full of protein meal.
I got some rest and next day, Thursday, we left with cousin Stamatis and good friend Manolis from Patras to reach Astakos in the western part of Greece. What a day was that! Before we cross the Rio-Antirio epic (longest cable-stayed “suspended” deck) bridge (in the world) I had an interview with a local TV Channel. First time in my life – very interesting as an experience. I said goodbye to all good friends and lovely relatives that came there to farewell me and sett off.
Now watch how things progress. While we were riding, some 4-5 km after the bridge, I kind of forced my cousin Stamatis to get some of the cake I had in my hand. Despite his initial unwillin
gness he did moved his hand towards me and with this movement he accidentally hit his cellphone that was mounted on the handlebar. Cellphone fell and broke (but was still functional – hehe) and Manolis who was coming at great speed immediately stopped to reach the phone. This resulted in a hole on his tire due to high friction with the road surface – not only a flat inner tube but also a hole in the tire itself!!! We had another tube but the tire was pretty useless. We used duck-tape as you can see.
It was noon. After sth like 5 km we hear a baaam – Manoli’s tire was now destroyed and we couldn’t do anything! But, wait a second! This place looks familiar – the tire became totally useless just 50 meters far from the house of Vana, a relative of my friend Demie
. Vana is a really open and cheerful person who I really appreciate despite the fact I hadn’t seen her for 3 years or so! We kind of stepped into the house and she was so kind to take the bike and Manolis to the closest city, Mesolongi, in order to find a bike shop and get a tire! We went to Mesolongi, but it was noon and the bike shop was closed. We called the man and he said he ‘ll come earlier than usual but not now. We went to eat sth, repaired the tires and off to Astakos where we camped at an amazing beach!
Next day it was Friday. Before we set off, while climbing to get to the street from the beach, Manolis managed somehow to warp his disc. Sth amazing happened that I had never seen in my life. While he was pedaling the chain was coming off the one disk to the other and then vice versa. So you had an always-changing-disks chain that was practically useless. He hammered the disk several times during the ride, in order to get it work properly – sth that he never achieved. Despite that, huts off to Manolis because he was following 2 e-bikes on steep mountains LIKE A MAN! So, MANolis from now on! Haha!
We reached Preveza that night, we camped next to a kind-of-beach, in-between some trees. It was really windy!
Hmmm… I now feel I am over-explanatory so far. But this whole 3-day adventure was really packed! I ‘ll let some pictures at the end to tell the rest of the story. Below you can see the sun rising as seen from my camp site in Igoumenitsa 🙂
Feelings? I feel so full – like really.. Full. I don’t know. I am peaceful – I guess it’s a feeling you don’t know it’s there (somewhere inside you) until you get to it. Or, until it gets to you. There are so many things to organise and be mindful about, but I am feeling truly relaxed and everything-is-on-their-way-to-awesomeness, no-worries-just-reflect-and-feel-and-listen-to-the-people-next-to-you. Right now I am being hosted at the Church Boarding School of the Holy Cross in Gjirokaster. I thank a lot for this the principal and close friend of mine Father Eleftherios Balakos and also Alexios Pappas who is an elementary teacher at the Greek-Albanian school “Breath of Love”. Alexios kindly invited me to the school, where I talked to the kids about the plans of my adventure and presented the bike – it was such a nice experience! Also, I would like to thank the principal of the Elementary school, Melpomeni Kouremenou, for trusting me and letting me into the school.
Presenting the bike and my dream!
Coolest and faithful teenagers at the Boarding School
Presenting the bike at the “Breath of Love” Elementary School
And yes, it can be folded!
Lovely School!
The Cathedral Church of the Resurrection of Christ, Gjirokastr
Gjirokastr – old and new
Sarande in Greek means 40 – 🙂
Couldnt resist
Yeah!
Last meters in Greek territory
Dream it – Build it – Live it – Love it
So cold n windy – camping at Igoumenitsa
Camping at Astakos, Aitoloakarnania
Y e a h !
Salt lake – Mesolongi
International Academy of Freedom – Mesolongi
7days full of croissant!
Reflections
Vamos!
MANolis 😀
Rio-Antirrio bridge – truly beautiful
Best camping spot ever – Astakos
Where bikes go?
1st Sunday @ St. Spyridon church – Igumenitsa
Todos Juntos!
The Story so far I
So, at some point during my childhood, an incident happen that shocked me a litle bit in regard to “the world of adults”. I was at my aunt’s place, hearing her counting backwards the days to vacations. She could tell you right away when there is a bank holiday, and how many three-days-in-a-row you ‘ll get off-work this year. I was like… whaaaat? Now I can see this is nothing particurlarly bizarre.
I am 25 and I have the feeling I am teenager again, facing all these questions that were important back then. Finished school, university, maybe did a masters, worked for some time, and then, asking yourself: Ok what do I really wanna do with/in my life? Spending time like being on your early 20s is a luxury right now. You need something more stable, be it a place to live on your own, a stable relationship, a normal salary.
The thing is that you exchange a great part of your teen-world for these. I don’t wanna be deterministic or dogmatic here, but I think you would agree that having a world tour, or even a eurotrip or the transsiberian is not something you can easily do while working in a multinational or having two kids.
Having lived for some time abroad (UK, Spain, India), Ι realised what it means this phrase I am listening to since childhood, this “broadening your horizons” moto. Indeed, investing on intercultural understanding can truly broaden your horizons. And let me specific on that: having true friends from all around the world, developing in practice empathetic skills – “to understand or feel what another person is experiencing from within the other person’s frame of reference”‘… Well yes, this is what makes you Human. So in early 2015 I said, Ok, this is the right time to do it, dream of a trip – dream big and you ‘ll find a way.
As Odysseas Elytis, one of the two greek poets awarded with nobel prize, puts it:
Desire gives birth to the road on which it wants to walk. It leaves. . .
(Windows toward the Fifth Season, Orientations, 1941)
Below you can find some pics in regard to the preparation. I will update this soon, with a more detailed description of the stages of the whole project.
The History so far
Of course I am not the only one finding e-bikes appropriate for something more than daily commuting or in-the-city-rides. There are already some people who attempted long distance e-bike cruises, and actually, there is a couple riding right now on Europe to set a new e-bike long-distance World Record.
Let us meet them:
A Spanish guy, manager of a chinese restaurant in Beijing, named Guim Valls Teruel decided to leave China (in 2009) for 3 years and ride up to London (in 2012, just before the Olympics) on a Wisper 906 Alpino. His goal was to “spread the message of this incredible invention to all corners of the world”. In 2009, while being in Vietnam, he was interviewed by Thuy Anh. They fell in love, later got married, and continued the trip together! Just to add here that they were carrying and using camping equipment. You can find more “before” here and more “after” here 🙂
German adventurer Maximilian Semsch in 2012 circumnavigated Australia (from Sidney to Sidney) claiming that “the route is the goal”. He had been riding for 6 months and achieved an impressive 16.047 km. He was riding a Haibike XDURO and camping all the way. More info here (good luck with the German 🙂 )
German journalist and e-bike enthusiast, Susanne Brüsch, has already completed 3 long-distance routes. On 2011, along with e-bike specialist Sebastian Plog, did the Tour de Sahara, cycling for 2000km and charging only through solar panels. Their goal was to draw attention to electric mobility and show that pedelecs are fun. On 2012, Susanne Brüsch and Ondra Veltrusky, managed the Tour de Mongolia and on 2013, the Iceland Challenge. During the latter they rode close to 4.000km in 4 weeks, but this time they had a special truck in their support, as on of their main goals was also photo-shooting and filming.
American Troy Rank, holder of the “Longest journey on a motorized bicycle” Guiness World Record, completed in August 2014, 7.151 km in the USA on a Maxwell Motorbikes ADV1 electric bicycle. There are also, other attempts made to conquer Troy’s place (hehe, sounds ancient greek to me 😀 ) like this one here in 2014, by Tomas Cortijo, who with his family following him on a van (!), tried to cover the distance of 6000miles (9650km) wtithin the USA. I couldn’t figure out, though, if they finally managed to complete their effort.
Garry and Rachel Corbett, currently on the road; determined to break the record of 16046km
And let us now move on to Australian Gary and Rachel Corbett, aged 60 and 56 respectively (!), also known as e-bike cycle tourists, who are now on the road. Having aleady covered more than 7000km in Europe, their plan is to break the distance record of Maximilian Semsch. They camp all the way long. You can follow them here. Hats (and helmets) off to them!
Of course, there are some more e-bike enthhusiasts that had attempted long distance tours of similar or, mainly, smaller range. Here I highligheted some of the most special efforts so far, according to the data available onlilne. Apologies if I forgot someone.
Taking the above into account, there is a number of people that actually had succeeded in cycling long distances with their e-bikes. The vast majority of them being on a “self-supported bicycle tour” or “fully-loaded bicycle tour”. The main characteristic of this touring category is carrying and using camping equipment, such as tents, sleeping bags, cooking stuff etc. This tends to turn things slower, since all this equipment is heavy. There are also some other issues, like looking every night for a safe place to camp, or finding a power outlet to charge the battery (if you do not carry solar panels, which again are heavy).
There is also an a lot greater amount of backpackers that tour around the world using all sorts of accomodation options (hostels, couchsurfing, etc.).
So, why not combining the backpacker attitute with the e-bike transportational (and not only) advantages, and promote in this way an eco-friendy mode of leisure that can be truly rewarding. I want to prove that it is possible, raise awareness on it, and inspire more people on actually either testing an e-bike or taking their e-bikes out for a longer multi-day trip!
A.W.E.S.O.M.E 
